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04-06 Ralliart Engine/Drivetrain (no forced induction)

Oil On Spark Plugs

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Old Jul 30, 2011 | 10:27 AM
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From: fallbrook
Oil On Spark Plugs

So ive been consuming alot of oil lately and yesterday got a random missfire code. pulled the plugs and found cylinder 2 and 3 have oil on the spark plug threads a and were fouled up. Where do you think the oil is from? Bad seals? I had the head put back together a year or so ago and all the crap was new but im just wondering if they screwed up
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Old Jul 30, 2011 | 10:46 AM
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From: Seat 8A
If it's both 2 and 3 then it's likely the head gasket. Or you're really unlucky and you have two sets of piston rings failing at the same time (doubt it).
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Old Jul 30, 2011 | 12:02 PM
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From: fallbrook
It's brand new head gasket.
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Old Jul 30, 2011 | 12:32 PM
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i had the same problem on my car, 04 ralliart ... i just got a head gasket kit ($40) i think, and i just replaced all 4 spark plug tube grommets, mine were 2 and 4 and a little 3 so i replaced them all, everything a-o-k now
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Old Jul 30, 2011 | 01:16 PM
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From: Seat 8A
Originally Posted by soulesswarrior
It's brand new head gasket.
It can still be the head gasket.
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Old Jul 30, 2011 | 01:52 PM
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From: Chico,Ca
if the head gasket wasnt seated properly they will allow oil to pass across the gaskets. Was the spark plug tubes full of oil? Also when you start the car is there blue smoke every morning but goes away after driving alittle bit?
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Old Jul 30, 2011 | 02:10 PM
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From: fallbrook
Never any blue smoke. On cold days I get the condensation white steam. But only cold days. The oil tube were not full of oil that I noticed though I did this at night. The plugs had oil on the threads and fouled
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Old Jul 30, 2011 | 03:56 PM
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ok.... have you done a compression test? this will tell you if your head gasket went between 2 and 3. Another thing that can cause fouling is excessive crankcase pressure but dont think that is the case with you. Did you have a valve job done on your car? If so did they use bronze guides and OEM stem seals?
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Old Jul 30, 2011 | 04:07 PM
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From: fallbrook
The valve job was all OEM parts. Have not done a compression test. Will not be able to for a week or so. The valves and guides were all ordered through mitsubishi parts.net
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Old Jul 30, 2011 | 09:55 PM
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did you use brand new head bolts when you mounted the head? Those things i would not re-use, even if they are "within specs". re-check the torque on the head bolts, would be the easiest thing to check first, then check compression.

but as others mentioned, the only place really to get oil in the cylinder is head gasket, piston rings, and valve stem seals.
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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 03:50 PM
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From: fallbrook
So compression is around 200 on all cylinders.
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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 06:09 PM
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you said you got new valves and guides, what about valve stem seals, how old are they? oil could get through those when the valves are open, and you only have compression when they are closed, right. what succks is you need a head gasket and some spare time to replace them
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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 06:40 PM
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From: fallbrook
Seals were new. BUT the head was pulled twice because the first guy who did my valves screwed up and didn't ream out the guides so a valve stuck and I had to have that redone so maybe pulling the seals off again messed it up? If im correct shops can swap seals without pulling the head now
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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 07:27 PM
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don't know, as long as the cylinder you're working on is at TDC the valve won't fall in when you take the retainer locks off, but how would they compress the springs...if you could do that it would totally be possible, but i would replace stem seals anytime the valves come out. I always do, so i couldn't say for sure that not doing so would result in an oil leak.
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Old Aug 7, 2011 | 07:42 PM
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From: fallbrook
They actually put a compressor in where the spark plug goes and pump air in there to hold the valves up
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