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04-06 Ralliart Engine/Drivetrain (no forced induction)

transmission issue?(wierd sound)

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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 12:36 PM
  #16  
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Otter thinks it's a manfactuer defective design. I Agree with him there must be some kind of connection of failure. So many are failing at the same time , age might be a factor??
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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 06:28 AM
  #17  
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After listening to the audio clip on youtube,

Originally Posted by $MIVEC$
Heres a clip of the sound

Sound goes away when pressing the clutch, you can notice it easily. (Im almost sure its the TOB)

After a few clutch presses its set on 1st gear and moved a bit then Reverse and moved then 1st and moved again
Is it when releasing the clutch in 1st or reverse that the car makes the noise ?

You said also :

Car shifts smoothly
No grinding
No issues using any gear

I am wondering if it is not a CV joint or shock mount. Try driving slowly in 1st, engine at idle speed, with the clutch fully engaged then accelerating hard and listening for said noise. Assess while going straight and also while turning both directions.
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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 07:59 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 2006_RA
After listening to the audio clip on youtube,



Is it when releasing the clutch in 1st or reverse that the car makes the noise ?

You said also :

Car shifts smoothly
No grinding
No issues using any gear

I am wondering if it is not a CV joint or shock mount. Try driving slowly in 1st, engine at idle speed, with the clutch fully engaged then accelerating hard and listening for said noise. Assess while going straight and also while turning both directions.


Ive tried it....only happens when the car is in gear.
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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 08:18 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by $MIVEC$
Ive tried it....only happens when the car is in gear.
Are you saying if the car is in neutral and you depress and release the clutch pedal that there is no noise ?
That would play to the suspension or drive axle as potential culprits in that the errant part makes noise as it is initially put under load. ie when the car begins to move.

Also, have you tried jacking up the car so that one front wheel is off the ground then starting the engine, selecting 1st and engaging the clutch ? Try with reverse too.

Try this for each side IF YOU DO NOT HAVE AN LSD.
If you have an LSD then jack up the car so both front wheels are off the ground.

Last edited by 2006_RA; Dec 12, 2011 at 08:44 AM.
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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 08:55 AM
  #20  
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The first post explains it clearly. When the car is in neutral and is coasting or jerks a bit from slight braking or a speedbump it does not make a sound. All this does happen when its in gear and/or when you take of in 1st it does when you let go the gas on 1st or push the gas it makes the sound, also on reverse. As higher you go on the gears the less intense the sound.

If you heard the video you can hear the TOB rattling making the car sound like a damn diesel engine. When clutch is pressed it quiets down.
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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 09:10 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by $MIVEC$
The first post explains it clearly. When the car is in neutral and is coasting or jerks a bit from slight braking or a speedbump it does not make a sound. All this does happen when its in gear and/or when you take of in 1st it does when you let go the gas on 1st or push the gas it makes the sound, also on reverse. As higher you go on the gears the less intense the sound.

If you heard the video you can hear the TOB rattling making the car sound like a damn diesel engine. When clutch is pressed it quiets down.
You describe exactly what happens with a bad strut bearing. I have had similar symptoms with CV joints too. I cannot tell what's rattling in the video, only that from your added description that the noise happens when you move off, or accelerate at low speeds ( when the weight of the car shifts on acceleration/deceleration)

Putting the car on a jack would eliminate the front to rear weight transfer, and allow you to perform further diagnosis.
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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 09:31 AM
  #22  
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Hmmm well my noise is upon start up constant except when the clutch is pressed and I think I might have found out what is killing the throw out bearings in our cars.
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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 09:46 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 2006_RA
Putting the car on a jack would eliminate the front to rear weight transfer, and allow you to perform further diagnosis.
Ill try that when i can then...wouldn't hurt to try all possible angles to find out whats broken

Originally Posted by lanzerralliart
Hmmm well my noise is upon start up constant except when the clutch is pressed and I think I might have found out what is killing the throw out bearings in our cars.
And what would that be?
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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 10:02 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by lanzerralliart
Hmmm well my noise is upon start up constant except when the clutch is pressed and I think I might have found out what is killing the throw out bearings in our cars.

Man are you trying to rival Stephen King for suspense or something ?
You dont post and leave people hanging like that .

Stay tuned, same bat time, same bat channel !
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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 10:06 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 2006_RA
Man are you trying to rival Stephen King for suspense or something ?
You dont post and leave people hanging like that .

Stay tuned, same bat time, same bat channel !
LOL! i was thinking the same thing!!
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Old Dec 25, 2011 | 07:04 PM
  #26  
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Well?
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Old Dec 25, 2011 | 08:08 PM
  #27  
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I was thinking the same thing a few days ago...whats the great find lanzer?
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Old Dec 26, 2011 | 07:13 PM
  #28  
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i had the same problem a while ago and end up spending $700 on a used tranny with 15k and just a few days ago a disassemble the old and find out that the main input shaft bearing was mess up but all the gears are good and whe i did the tranny swap the throw out bearing was bad to but i had a new one on hand so it can be ether or hopefully is just your TOB; does anyone know were i can get a quife lsd besides rrm or rpw or if i can take the one from the old tranny and do something with it any help???
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Old Dec 26, 2011 | 08:00 PM
  #29  
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you can make a straight positive traction diff by welding the spider gears (will turn like ****, and probably cause stress on the CV joints)

The other option is to install one of those "phantom grip" type spring loaded sandwich plates, which makes it sort of a clutch style LSD by applying a clamping force to the spider gears, locking them together while still allowing some slip, the problem with that is that from what i've heard, the reason they call it "phantom grip" is because "sometimes it does, and sometimes it doesn't...which to me is dangerous if the car's handling is unpredictable, especially in a corner...

Quaife LSD is awesome, i can't praise it enough...part number QDH7BR, google that, you'll find them in the $1,000 range.

also WaveTrac makes one that is also a helical type ATB LSD, part number is 76.309.180WK
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Old Apr 4, 2012 | 07:23 PM
  #30  
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Problem has been solved.

During the last oil change I noticed a leak on both oil retainers on the tranny( left and right axle's)

Replaced them and the sound in the clip went away. It was not the TOB at all, but regarding the TOB it still does the subtle rattle sometimes in idle but i could care less about sounds on a 6year old mitsu....
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