do you mean PCV? the PCV valve is positive crank case ventilation, it's a check valve on the back of the valve cover connecting to the front of the intake manifold plenum.

the evap purge solenoid is mounted to the number 1 intake runner. there's two hoses going to it.

 

k thanks but do you know what it means by that the problem is in fuel system 2 Is fuel system one like the fuel pump or how does it work

 

hmm...
this is just me thinking out loud but...
maybe there's a leak somewhere?
maybe the system is clogging up somewhere?
and yes, i'm pretty sure that if it's a "fuel system" issue, the fuel pump may be involved.
you should try yanking that thing out and cleaning it.
i think we discussed that in another post where you can clean the "sock-looking" filter for the fuel pump as it gathers dirt over time.
just thought i would chime in and comment on this.
i'm no expert but i read a lot

 

it could be open loop vs. closed loop

 

Did you have any problem with idling or restarting the car after a refuel?? If both, there is a 99% chance it's the purge valve solenoid. It seems to be a common issue with RA's as posts regarding this issue have been multiplying lately.

If you pinched the PCV hose, it won't help diagnosing a PVS issue. The hose for the PVS goes from the firewall to the intake manifold, running at the back of the manifold before reaching the valve, as Crans already stated.

 

I Will check it today and the car smells like its burning rich not lean the car is running at its hottest 192 F and I I did put a new fuel filter in it and toke out the injetors and cleaned them out

 

I just put a metter on my MAF sensor put it on htz and it was jumping every where like 80 to 60 now and tjen would drop to 10 to 14 but it wasn't for long it was jumping like crazy and I used more tjen one driffent ground and tryed it a few was and noattwr what it was every where does that mean its bad

 

I changed my MAF sensor tonight and I got the plug with long wires on it solder them all on and did them nice cuz i moved my air intake and they were to short and I drove the the car about 25 miles since and havn't seen my check engine like again so hopfuly the light wont come back

Thank you to every for your help with trying to fix it I appreciate everyones time

 

Not sure if this will help, but I was getting the same lean codes you were for the longest time. I had a custom downpipe, high flow cat, cut resonator, and magnaflow exhaust put on and I would get the codes on and off. I tried cleaning the sensor's, checking flexpipe for tears, checked exhaust for holes, checking gaskets, and even went as far to buy a new bank 1 o2 sensor since i bypassed the second. Never got far enough to swap in the bank one o2 sensor because I noticed a tear in my rear engine mount. I went and added Flexane 80 to my engine mount to repair it. Once I fixed the engine mount, my code went away. I don't know how that fixed the issue but it has not come back since. The flexane was added 3 months ago. Hopefully this helps!

 

So the motor mount fixed it or bi passing the 2ed o2 sensoes did it

 

Bypassing the 2nd O2 sensor fixed the code for bank 2 sensor running too lean.

Soon after that code went away I started getting the Bank 1 sensor running too lean. That code would come on intermittently and kept appearing for about 6 months. I tried searching for vacuum leaks, cleaning MAF sensor, cleaning tb, cleaning air filter(SRI). Cleaning those item's made the code disappear temporarily, but it would always throw a code within a month.

Once I repaired the torn motor mount, the bank 1 sensor running too lean code went away. It's been gone for just over 3 months now.

 

was it the motor mount down on the back rear that is on kinda on the firewall like over the exhaust?

 

Exactly. It's a pain to get too and remove.