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04-06 Ralliart Engine/Drivetrain (no forced induction)

Bell ringing sound at low rpm

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Old Sep 6, 2013 | 09:16 AM
  #16  
CrAnSwIcK's Avatar
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you don't want to change your throttle body size without tuning, it will cause all sorts of issues especially at idle...I don't know why people use larger throttle bodies without any supporting modifications to the engine, it doesn't really make sense...
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Old Sep 6, 2013 | 09:52 AM
  #17  
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My plan st to get the hackish tune first before changing out parts. Just have to save a bit before anything happens.
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Old Sep 6, 2013 | 09:58 AM
  #18  
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ok, that's fine...but you really don't need a larger throttle body
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Old Sep 7, 2013 | 09:49 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by CrAnSwIcK
ok, that's fine...but you really don't need a larger throttle body
Just like we didn't need a bigger rear sway bar? Don't knock it til you try it, there's a reason this mod is big over at club 4g. I never had idle problems or lean problems even with a cold air intake and short ram intake.
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Old Sep 8, 2013 | 06:08 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by RacerX-Ralliart
Just like we didn't need a bigger rear sway bar? Don't knock it til you try it, there's a reason this mod is big over at club 4g. I never had idle problems or lean problems even with a cold air intake and short ram intake.
lol, we don't need a bigger sway bar, and what's the reason it's so popular on club4g?
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Old Sep 8, 2013 | 03:23 PM
  #21  
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Rear sway bar not front.... Because it gives you more high end power! The faster the engine rotates the less air that can be sucked into the cylinder bigger throttle body allows more air to flow into the intake thus allowing more air into the cylinder. The bore of the manifold is 62-63mm iirc and the stock throttle body is 60mm gt throttle body is 63mm If you get the gt throttle body with mivec it's 65mm
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Old Sep 8, 2013 | 05:19 PM
  #22  
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I doubt the the throttle body is that much of a restriction that it robs power at high rpm, that would be like having vacuum at WOT... has anyone ever done a same day dyno comparison to prove it's making a difference? i'm still highly skeptical...and I was speaking of the rear sway bar...I still think camber, tires and tire pressure are a bigger piece of the puzzle...I even find sometimes the whiteline bar has too much torsion, or resistance of, for my liking...definitely stiffer, but sometimes it drifts...i'd rather feel the roll, and adjust my speed than feel invincible, and then the next thingi know i'm sideways through the weeds...lol

Last edited by CrAnSwIcK; Sep 8, 2013 at 05:23 PM.
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Old Oct 15, 2013 | 10:08 AM
  #23  
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This morning I thought to try something and it seems to have worked for the moment. I started the car, let it run for 15-20 seconds then turned it off. I then started it back up within 10 or so seconds. After doing this I began my normal drive to work. The idle dropping issue was gone! I have not left work yet to see if it comes back, but it just seems strange. Not really sure if this is helpful to anyone to pinpoint a problem.
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