The Official Ralliart NOOB Thread
Jun 13, 2005, 12:04 AM
#47
Details about MIVEC
This keeps coming up, so I figured I'd explain it so people stop spreading incorrect information.
MIVEC controls two things - timing and valve lift. The timing aspect is pretty basic - the ECU advances/retards timing at various RPMs to increase HP or torque. At some points in the RPM band, timing is advanced as far as 20 degrees. This is VERY important information, especially if you're trying to run nitrous or build yourself a custom turbo kit. Can the timing be controlled? Yes. However, there are no instructions or how-to's on it, so you'll need to figure it out yourself. The companies that know how to do it (RRM) aren't talking, out of interest of protecting their R&D.
It's the valve lift portion that confuses people and has the most incorrect information spread about it. MIVEC runs in two modes (note: MIVEC only affects intake valves, not exhaust) -
Mode 1 - one valve in each cylinder operates at low lift, the other at medium lift. This helps the engine create more torque.
Mode 2 - both intake valves operate at high lift. This increases horsepower.
The engagement/disengagement point is at 3500rpm. I thought I read a tech write-up somewhere saying that it was 3600 (engage) and 3400 (disengage), but I can't find it. When I do I'll post it here.
Finally, the mode change is hydraulic (oil controlled), not mechanical.
Want the technical nitty-gritty, or just having problems sleeping? Read these tech docs on exactly how MIVEC works:
http://www.technogeeky.com/ralliart/Stuff/mivec_01.gif
http://www.technogeeky.com/ralliart/Stuff/mivec_02.gif
http://www.technogeeky.com/ralliart/Stuff/mivec_03.gif
http://www.technogeeky.com/ralliart/Stuff/mivec_04.gif
http://www.technogeeky.com/ralliart/Stuff/mivec_05.gif
MIVEC controls two things - timing and valve lift. The timing aspect is pretty basic - the ECU advances/retards timing at various RPMs to increase HP or torque. At some points in the RPM band, timing is advanced as far as 20 degrees. This is VERY important information, especially if you're trying to run nitrous or build yourself a custom turbo kit. Can the timing be controlled? Yes. However, there are no instructions or how-to's on it, so you'll need to figure it out yourself. The companies that know how to do it (RRM) aren't talking, out of interest of protecting their R&D.
It's the valve lift portion that confuses people and has the most incorrect information spread about it. MIVEC runs in two modes (note: MIVEC only affects intake valves, not exhaust) -
Mode 1 - one valve in each cylinder operates at low lift, the other at medium lift. This helps the engine create more torque.
Mode 2 - both intake valves operate at high lift. This increases horsepower.
The engagement/disengagement point is at 3500rpm. I thought I read a tech write-up somewhere saying that it was 3600 (engage) and 3400 (disengage), but I can't find it. When I do I'll post it here.
Finally, the mode change is hydraulic (oil controlled), not mechanical.
Want the technical nitty-gritty, or just having problems sleeping? Read these tech docs on exactly how MIVEC works:
http://www.technogeeky.com/ralliart/Stuff/mivec_01.gif
http://www.technogeeky.com/ralliart/Stuff/mivec_02.gif
http://www.technogeeky.com/ralliart/Stuff/mivec_03.gif
http://www.technogeeky.com/ralliart/Stuff/mivec_04.gif
http://www.technogeeky.com/ralliart/Stuff/mivec_05.gif
Last edited by otter; Jun 13, 2005 at 12:13 AM.
Jun 14, 2005, 01:47 PM
#48
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Few Misc. Things...
Azure IS as sexy in real life as he seems on the boards. Quit asking! 
- may have missed it, but Nex Tech also sells Coilover Springs for our car
- Yes, our car wheel gap IS bigger in the front then back - this isn't a problem with your car
- may have missed it, but Nex Tech also sells Coilover Springs for our car
- Yes, our car wheel gap IS bigger in the front then back - this isn't a problem with your car
Jul 2, 2005, 11:20 AM
#49
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Gas for your RA
In a nutshell, running a higher octane than what your car is designed for is POINTLESS and STUPID. You are burning a hole in your pocket if you think putting premium in your car will 1)make it perform better 2)get better gas mileage 3)make your engine last longer. The only time you would need to put a higher octane in your car is after putting on the RRM piggyback ECU. Otter made a good post about this awhile back that pretty much sums it up.
"It makes little to no sense to run 91 octane fuel in an engine that only needs 87 octane. You're just throwing money away. Higher octane fuels have higher flashpoints, so they're necessary in higher compression engines, and engines tuned for significantly greater than stock performance, but is completely unneeded in the stock engine.
If running higher octane actually gave you better gas milage, as you think it does, then all manufacturers would say their car requires it so they could put the slightly better MPG number on the sticker."
"It makes little to no sense to run 91 octane fuel in an engine that only needs 87 octane. You're just throwing money away. Higher octane fuels have higher flashpoints, so they're necessary in higher compression engines, and engines tuned for significantly greater than stock performance, but is completely unneeded in the stock engine.
If running higher octane actually gave you better gas milage, as you think it does, then all manufacturers would say their car requires it so they could put the slightly better MPG number on the sticker."
Jul 7, 2005, 10:27 PM
#51
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Oil overview...Synthetic vs Regular
Synthetic advantages (read carefully)
Synthetic oil was originally developed for high performance racing engines. Mobil tried to popularize synthetic oil for passenger vehicles back in the early 1970's. At the time, Mobil was promoting 20K or 25K oil changes with synthetic, but they soon backed down from this. Synthetic oil is a good choice if you have a vehicle with a high performance engine (in fact synthetic is required for many of these engines). It is also a good choice if your vehicle is operated in extremely cold climates. It has higher resistance to breakdown caused by heat and it flows better in extreme cold. Unfortunately for the synthetic oil industry there is virtually no advantage to using synthetic oil in a non-high performance engine that is operated in moderate climates. You probably could go a bit longer between oil changes with a synthetic, i.e. following the normal service schedule even if you fall into the severe service category, but I wouldn't advise this. In short, synthetic may give you the peace of mind of knowing that you are using an oil that is far better than necessary for your vehicle, but it won't reduce wear or extend the life of the engine. The mistake some people make it to wrongly extrapolate these benefits onto normal engines operated in mild climates, with the ultimate lack of any knowledge being manifested with statements such as "synthetics provide 'Peace of Mind,' or 'Cheap Insurance,'" or other such nonsense
So in a nutshell...
Synthetic oil is a good choice if you have a high performance engine or if you live in an extremely cold climate, otherwise it provides no benefit (but no harm either).
Synthetic oil was originally developed for high performance racing engines. Mobil tried to popularize synthetic oil for passenger vehicles back in the early 1970's. At the time, Mobil was promoting 20K or 25K oil changes with synthetic, but they soon backed down from this. Synthetic oil is a good choice if you have a vehicle with a high performance engine (in fact synthetic is required for many of these engines). It is also a good choice if your vehicle is operated in extremely cold climates. It has higher resistance to breakdown caused by heat and it flows better in extreme cold. Unfortunately for the synthetic oil industry there is virtually no advantage to using synthetic oil in a non-high performance engine that is operated in moderate climates. You probably could go a bit longer between oil changes with a synthetic, i.e. following the normal service schedule even if you fall into the severe service category, but I wouldn't advise this. In short, synthetic may give you the peace of mind of knowing that you are using an oil that is far better than necessary for your vehicle, but it won't reduce wear or extend the life of the engine. The mistake some people make it to wrongly extrapolate these benefits onto normal engines operated in mild climates, with the ultimate lack of any knowledge being manifested with statements such as "synthetics provide 'Peace of Mind,' or 'Cheap Insurance,'" or other such nonsense
So in a nutshell...
Synthetic oil is a good choice if you have a high performance engine or if you live in an extremely cold climate, otherwise it provides no benefit (but no harm either).
Jul 8, 2005, 09:17 PM
#52
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I didn't see this question asked on this thread.
Will the evo 8 armrest fit our 04 ralliarts? That is one thing I would like to have for my RA for a comfort add on. I wish I had that because I find my elbow resting on my thingy (forget what it's called) Is there room to add a armrest?
edit: in response to this question, yes an evo armrest will fit on our cars...blkralliart04
Will the evo 8 armrest fit our 04 ralliarts? That is one thing I would like to have for my RA for a comfort add on. I wish I had that because I find my elbow resting on my thingy (forget what it's called) Is there room to add a armrest?
edit: in response to this question, yes an evo armrest will fit on our cars...blkralliart04
Last edited by BLKRalliArt04; Jul 20, 2005 at 01:41 PM.
Jul 8, 2005, 09:56 PM
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Hey there guys!
I really need to know what the stock compression rate is on our springs (front and back). The only thing I know is that they're stiffer than the OZ, especially in the front (to compensate for the added weight of the 2.4 MIVEC) but also a bit in the back.
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Hey there guys!
I really need to know what the stock compression rate is on our springs (front and back). The only thing I know is that they're stiffer than the OZ, especially in the front (to compensate for the added weight of the 2.4 MIVEC) but also a bit in the back.
-
Jul 10, 2005, 12:46 PM
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Touch up paint
If you have a bunch of dents and dings where paint is chipping, www.paintscratch.com is a good place to go. Otherwise, your dealership should carry touch up pens. But I recommend going on www.mitsubishiparts.net for your oem parts needs.
Jul 16, 2005, 07:56 AM
#56
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Where to buy wheels
Heres some places that specialize in wheels. Hundreds of places sell wheels, but these places specialize in selling them. Heres some places off the top of my head.
www.wheelguyz.com
www.wheelmax.com
www.tires.com
www.dragonwheels.com
www.discounttiredirect.com
www.bestwheel.com
www.hpdesignwheels.com
www.finalstageauto.com
www.wheelsboutique.com
www.wheelsnext.com
www.tirerack.com
www.wheelguyz.com
www.wheelmax.com
www.tires.com
www.dragonwheels.com
www.discounttiredirect.com
www.bestwheel.com
www.hpdesignwheels.com
www.finalstageauto.com
www.wheelsboutique.com
www.wheelsnext.com
www.tirerack.com
Jul 17, 2005, 08:44 AM
#57
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Brake upgrades for my Ralliart?
Looking for brake upgrades for your Ralliart? Heres where you can get them
Road/Race Big brake rotor kit (front only) - www.roadracemotorsports.com - This is probably the best brake upgrade out there.
Powerslot rotors (front only) - www.ptuning.com just to name one vendor
All around brake rotors - www.r1concepts.com
RRM rotors and pads (all around) www.roadracemotorsports.com
Road/Race Big brake rotor kit (front only) - www.roadracemotorsports.com - This is probably the best brake upgrade out there.
Powerslot rotors (front only) - www.ptuning.com just to name one vendor
All around brake rotors - www.r1concepts.com
RRM rotors and pads (all around) www.roadracemotorsports.com
Last edited by BLKRalliArt04; Jul 20, 2005 at 01:50 PM.
