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Front Motor Mount Hardening DIY

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Old May 1, 2005 | 10:00 PM
  #31  
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oh oh!!

i got the cauke all over my face!
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Old May 1, 2005 | 11:08 PM
  #32  
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anyway, her are the vids of my dyno runs. you can see the engine twist, mostly to the back. hence, i would suggest doing the rear mount as well. not much forward movement at all!

run 1
run 2
run 3

btw, you can get a good idea of how nice the VRS exhaust sounds with this. even though my accadent wiped mine out, i hope to have a new one put on soon =(

Last edited by otter; May 2, 2005 at 09:16 AM.
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Old Sep 27, 2005 | 07:22 AM
  #33  
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resurrecting a thread but i have a question. see i went to wal-mart looking for windo-weld. the clerk asked me what it was, and i told him urethane tube. so after a little searching he says that they dont sell it, but they do have gorilla glue that is "pure" polyurethane. said it should do the same as the windo-weld for what i needed it for. now is he right? or did he see a quick ticket out so he could get back to shooting the blue behind his counter?
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Old Sep 27, 2005 | 12:19 PM
  #34  
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No, don't use gorilla glue. Go to a proper auto parts store, and they'll have windo-weld.
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Old Oct 14, 2005 | 07:29 PM
  #35  
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Bumping an old thread...

I'm going to be giving the DIY motor mounts a try either this weekend or next. Instead of Windo-Weld or some other tube of goo, I'm going the 2-part urethane mix route.

I mixed up a can of this stuff to see how hard it got (and how quickly). Mixed it up at 4:30pm one day. By 7pm, it was hard enough that poking it with a fingertip didn't leave a mark. By 11pm, it was getting very hard. The label says it takes a week to fully cure. I can only imagine how hard this stuff will be in a week.

I'm currently debating whether it would be better to remove all the rubber, then totally fill the mount, or just fill in the gaps. So far, I'm leaning toward remove and fill.

Anyway, I'll keep everyone posted as new developments... develop.
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Old Oct 14, 2005 | 08:18 PM
  #36  
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^^ that way better than window weld.. you can buy that at mcmasters.com
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Old Oct 14, 2005 | 09:06 PM
  #37  
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I asked my boss to order two cans of it. The company picked up the tab.
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Old Oct 15, 2005 | 08:27 AM
  #38  
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lol
tat thing is messy watch your hands....
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 07:57 PM
  #39  
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Well, it hasn't been even a week yet, and the stuff I mixed up as a test is hard enough that I can stab it with a screwdriver and the tip only goes in about 1mm.

Ended up not doing the motor mounts this past weekend. One of my friends borrowed my truck to go hunting, and I'm not going to take apart the only vehicle I have for a whole day while this stuff cures.

I ordered some new mounts, instead, so I can fill those, and just swap them in after they harden.
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 08:57 PM
  #40  
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^^ that was the most thoughtfull thing to do... i did it like that also... i bought both front and back and the one that gave me a lot of trouble was the back is a pita to take of and a pita to put in...
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 11:00 PM
  #41  
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I bought both front and back as well. I was scoping out the back one this past weekend as I was rotating my tires. Kind of a tough spot to get to, but at least there's a little room around it to work. Too bad I don't have 3 double-jointed elbows in each arm.
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 05:34 AM
  #42  
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Are the mounts the same as evo or DSM's.. If so I can get generic replacements for cheap and then do them. This way I dont have to wait the cureing process.
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 08:16 AM
  #43  
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We share the same front mount as the 2.0L base Lancers, but the rear mount is purely our own.
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Old Oct 18, 2005 | 07:11 PM
  #44  
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I'm thinkning of doing the rear also, be ready for ALOT more vibration in the cabin. I have the 80 shore in the front mount and its hard stuff. If I were to do it over again, I'd go with 60 shore but do both front and back at the same time. Let us know how it goes,
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Old Oct 22, 2005 | 01:09 AM
  #45  
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So the engine won't fall out if you take the monts out right?And how much are new ones?
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