Any updates on the 75 wet shot dallas? I'm going to order another fuel line since it seems ours was made by packard bell... Anyway I'm ordering another so I can return to "stock" after spraying. I used to work with the mitsu parts guy so hopefully I can get it without making it to the big board. Let me know if you came up with a work around for the proprietary fuel line. WTF is that about anyways? Are they too good for hose clamps or something?

 

I personally think that with some mods like either lowering springs or coilovers and some rubber for better traction, CAI, axle/catback and a downpipe or high flow cat for some better breathing and the ECU and i'd be VERY surprised if you weren't in LOW 13's. Those mods alone without the n2o will probably get you a little over 210WHP then add a 50 shot of the juice....c'mon dude.....EASILY into the low to mid 13's on a average night.

 

no offence.....Those are just bolt ons.....i don't think it will actually boost up to 210whp. 210whp is like honda's LS/VTEC. so i really doubt it. though our RA is a 2.4 but bolt ons just won't get ur car up that high. If you're according to what the box of the bolt on says.....then sure....why not. but for reals. no way.

 

nice job man

 

Not to be combative but I don't think the piggyback is making 30-40 whp. That's the only way that combo would open up 60whp. 150 is a good baseline stock number, some are a little more, some less but that's about average. 10-15whp for a CAI (160-5) custom exhaust is maybe 15-20 (the only flow problem is the dp everything else is pretty damn good imo) which puts it at a 175-185whp. I mis-spent some funds or I'd let you know for sure in a week or 2 at most about whp with a INJEN cai and a 75 wet NX (Mainline) nitrous shot. I've been lazy and havent posted my baseline dyno yet and it's a little chewed up after getting lost and found again but everythings still legible that counts. I'll do my best to take stills with my sony dig8 camcorder during the install and try my hand at a DIY. I do know that mounting the bottle requires (temp) removing a box under the D-side under the car. I think it's the brake controller but I wouldn't swear to it. On the plus side there are holes drilled in the frame boxing that should work for mounting. It should make for a hell of a ride!

Has anyone heard from Dallas lately? He didn't post anything about his 75 wet shot and that makes me a little nervous... Maybe he's too busy racing to type anymore

 

As far as I knew, 160 is base for a stock rali, 10 for CAI, 10 for downpipe, 10ish for ECU, makes 30, for 190 *shrugs* (All of my knowledge is forum numbers)

 

162 hp stock at the crank according to Mitsu. Seems about right for a 10% drivetrain loss. I dynoed 146.04 hp at the wheels on 87 octane with 146.59ft/lbs of torque with around 3k miles on the car.
WHP is a much better performance indicator. Who cares if you have 200 hp at the crank if you're only putting 140hp to the ground because you have a poorly designed automatic!

 

Might be right, as far as I knew, someone checked it and the ywere getting 164ish, stock, but hey, i'm new so...

 

Correct me if I'm wrong but don't we already have a rev limiter that cuts the fuel?

 

^^^ yeah, 7.5krpms.

 

That's what I thought. That guy just sounded like an Evo driver trying to act like he knows everything.

 

I know... I hit mine at least once a week. First gear is fast.

 

Here we go again.

Fuel cut is at about 6900 RPM, not 7500. Redline is at 6500.

 

Why you running your car so hard? You racing it every week or something?

 

its closer to 7.5k rpm. trust me, been there several times. i used to not shift until 7200rpm on every 1/4 run and never hit the limiter. i only hit it when riding 3rd out through the line (bad idea) but tried many times.