I want some gauges... I feel like my car leaves me out of everything that's goin on... what am I lookin at spending for oil temp and pressure gauges? I know that the block is $65...

 

I got my gauges for 69 a piece, then I got the block adapter, bought the mount off of lancershop.com. I spent probably 200 for the gauges and mounting hardware. Then I paid 120 to have them installed.

 

ralliart2004, what brand of gauges?

i got the cooler all ready to go.. just need some fittings and the thermostat

-joe

 

I'm running autometer phantom series, oil temp and a/f. I don't recommend the a/f. It really just looks cool, not too functional.

 

lol

a/f is useless =P

-joe

 

I figured that out the hard way. Seemed to be a popular gauge to get, but after installing it, I realized why so many are for sale. LOL!!!

 

what oil psi range are we running in? they have guages for low and high oil pressure cars. i think we are low, but not sure. can anyone verify?

 

I will call mitsu tues and find out for sure, I know that they said the temp is 210 to 230 normal city stop and go. I think the temp is what we need to worry about with the gearing set up the way it is in our cars.

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ENGINE OIL PRESSURE CHECK

Required Special Tool:
MD998054: Engine Oil Pressure Switch Wrench
1.Check engine oil quantity.

2.Remove the engine oil pressure switch terminal.

Since sealant is applied to the thread of the engine oil pressure switch, take care not to damage the engine oil pressure switch when removing it.
3.Use special tool MD998054 to remove the engine oil pressure switch.
4.Install the engine oil pressure gauge.
NOTE: Use a 1/8 pipe thread adapter.
5.Run the engine to warm it.
6.After the engine has been warmed up, check that engine oil pressure is within the standard value.

Standard value:
At idle: 29 kPa (4.2 psi) or more
At 3,500 r/min: 294 - 686 kPa (43 - 100 psi)
7.Remove the engine oil pressure gauge.

8.Apply the specified sealant 3MTM AAD Part number 8672 or equivalent to the threads of the engine oil pressure switch.

Do not start the engine within one hour after the engine engine oil pressure switch has been installed.
9.Use special tool MD998054 to tighten the engine oil pressure switch to the specified torque.

Tightening torque:
<2.0L ENGINE> 10 ± 2 N·m (87 ± 17 in-lb)
<2.4L ENGINE> 19 ± 3 N·m (14 ± 2 ft-lb)
10.Install the engine oil pressure switch terminal.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This is the pressure you should see at the head.


I didn't know there was an oil pressure switch at the back of the block???

 

43-100psi.. hmm.. that's a very large range..

the gauge reads 40 - 100.. so it's not telling us anything =)

there is an "idiot light" switch on the back of the block, and a oil pressure sensor on the right where he has it highlighted

-joe

 

engine oil pressure switch... So was I right then? Thats the piece I have highlighted in the main photo?

 

but if you crack that seal, you have to reseal it.. it's soo much trouble

just pay $60 and get the greddy block like everybody here =)

-joe

 

Talked to Mitsubishi this afternoon and they said that the "idoit light" on the back is identical to the engine oil pressure switch on the side of the block. Either or will work well. They said that the pressure will be the same no matter where it is attached, however it would be best to have the sender attached to the block as opposed to down by the filter.

From their mouths exactly... if you take the switch out, just remember to put a pipe sealant on it when you put it back.

So as far as I'm concerened that is the way I will go. I could spend the $60USD or I can spend $3CND on a brass tee which will do the exact same thing in less time.

Thanks for everyones help and opinions!

 

go to "engine dynamics" (endyn) and read up on why copper tees are bad

a $3 tee will cost you the engine you have.. trust me

and if you crack that seal on the pressure switches, it's a PITA to put it back without leaking..

the pressure at the filter will be almost the same as up on the block.. and i think they are wrong when they say either side or back is the same kind of switch

-joe

 

I read that, no where does it say that copper tees are bad. It only states that copper tees mounted on an engine block may be bad. I says one should run some nylon or SS line and remote mount the tee.

Cool site , http://www.theoldone.com/