so you are going to run a steel braided line to the firewall.. once you add the cost of the actual line and the fittings, you are not at the magical $3 CAD mark any more

i priced out a -8 AN line with fittings and the actual mounting hardware, it was about the same as the Greddy block..

-joe

 

Sillypuddy is right, good luck paying your magical $3 CAD. With everything together you will be looking at close to, if not more than the block adaptor. You're looking at probably $15 USD each for the fittings from a hydraulics shop and then if they get it wrong the first time, you have more money to spend. I had this problem when we put a 5.0 mustang engine in my buddies toyota. Spend the money on the block adaptor. It's the easiest thing to install and will save you the worry of this other method. You keep hearing about seals and oil leaks, why worry when there is an adaptor out that will save you the trouble? You asked for opinions!

 

you going to need, assuming the stock sender size is 1/4"

AEROQUIP:

FCV0815 (15 feet of hose, if you are lucky, you can find a shop to sell you a "cut" piece for $5-$6 CAD a foot) $45.85 USD

FCM2036 (1/4" NPT to -8 AN nipple) $10.88 USD

FCM1513 (-8 AN to hose adapter) $5.95 USD a piece

FCM1203 (-8 AN hose to 1/2" NPT adapter) $5.99 USD a piece

FCM2141 (1/2" npt -> 1/8" npt bushing), you need two pieces, $7.99 USD a piece

RUSSELL:

661741 (1/2" NPT all female Tee) $32.39 USD a piece

and this is using regular rubber hose, not steel braided and using regular fittings, not swivel ones..

(prices from summitracing.com today, add taxes / duties / customs for canada orders)

the greddy block is starting to look really good =)

-joe

 

He could also save a few dollars and do it locally, but the total would still make the block adapter cheaper than doing it with the "T" idea.

 

i tried to do mine locally and all the parts are much more expensive

for example, the hose is $50 USD.. i got a quote from $90 - $125 CAD here..

even if each fitting is only $1 difference, you can add up to $20-$30

-joe

 

sillypuddy,

First off no one said anything about a copper tee, it's a brass tee. A brass tee is fine. Second It's done! I figured out how to do it. I got a quote at NAPA and everything runs me $15 CND and why are you arguing with what Mitsubishi is saying. They built the engine, I'm sure they know where to attach it.

You used the Greddy adaptor thats great. I'll do it this way, if there is a problem later on down the line then I will post it here so anyone in the future knows. Forums are great for the amount of information they have, but the downfall is ppl love to give their two cents when they don't understand whats going on.

I appreciate everyones help, but to arguee about something that Mitsubishi themselves have told me will work and to give smart *** comments about pricing when I've already been quoted is stupid.

 

brass / copper.. same difference http://mineral.galleries.com/mineral...rass/brass.htm

you have already read that there is problems using at tee on the block..

mitsubishi can tell you pigs fly.. but when there is a problem, you think they will warranty it? at the end of the day, it's the local mechanic at the dealer who told you that it's ok.. you think he will stand up for your warranty rights?

i personally have seen two of these brass / copper tees shear right off the tee section on civics and they don't even make the same HP / torque (more torque = more engine rocking back and forth, hence why people with RA are filling their engine mounts) ..

but anyways, it's all good.. best of luck to you and hope that it works out at the end

can you take some pics for the rest of us? thanks

-joe

 

For longevity, (leak free running) a brass tee on the block is not the way to go. IMHO an oil filter block adapter is the simplest way to go, however it is not impervious to leaks either and whether it is better than a remotely mounted setup is unknown to me. You will at some point have to change to O-ring gasket on it.

For $50 US one could try this, but you can only connect two items up to it.

No sure why any1 would go and do a SS line to a remove oil pressure switch like it was described above? Threads on the oil pressure senders/switch are certainly 1/4 NPT or BSP, why would you need to get adapters from 1/4 to -8AN and then back again? The idea is to measure the pressure of the oil. Flow rate is not an issue? A couple of feet of -4AN line are really all that is needed in this case.

 

i haven't seen any -4an to 1/4" npt adapters

-joe

 

Fittings and **** are so expensive. Check out http://www.sweetperformance.com they have some of the best prices. I think it because the fittings they get are one that fail cosmetic visual inspections, but are still fully functional.


[edit] any one know if Mitsu uses BSP like Hondu does?

[edit again] found this thread, any of you have any issues with the autometer NPT threads and the BSP threads used on our cars, and the GReddy adpater?

Thanks


-J

 

I retap mine to NPT.. so it's not an issue.. some people just force it in and it's leaking

-joe

 

IC,

Thanks for the info

-J

 

403ra.. any updates?

i am still waiting for a good day to do my install

-joe

 

Sorry, haven't looked at mounting the oil filter relocation in another location. Since I don't have an intake now, I'm going to finish with the battery relocation and then fab up something to bolt up that oil filter relocation adapter and mount it where the battery was.

I think that should work, it just has to be rugged and sturdy. I think you could also fab up something and place it where the stock air box was, though there is less room there. (You may have to go with a shorter filter if you want to put it where the air box was.)

Remember that the oil filter can be mounted in any position, even up side down. You may be still be able to fit it in down under the battery with a CIA if you go with a short filter and mount it sideways or upside down , ... and use apropriate hose fittings.

I will keep you posted!

 

Finally did something. Got some aluminu diamond plate, cut it out, bended to fit, and drilled out three holes.