I figured out the perfect wax job that is easy to do. I have tried this on my Ralli art and it is awsome. If you want professional results from your waxing here is the combo. !st coat meguiars mirror glaze #2 fine cut cleaner--This stripes all the old wax and has no grit so it won't leave a haze it kills all water spots and removes scratches. If the scratches are deep work that area longer.
2nd show car glaze #7 pure polish-- Awsome product when you use this it helps if you buff it out to the shine you want.
3rd cleaner wax this stuff hides the fine scratches and gives really good clarity and beading of water.
4th gold class as your sealent.
All of these are meguiars products and give great results. The first are professional products but they are made to be put on by buffer or by hand as well a polisher. And all are clear coat safe. It takes a while to do this job but you will not be dissapointed.

 

I've used the Meguiars 3 step stuff (cleaner, polish, wax) for awhile now (as well as their cutting polishes on one particularly neglected car) and I've found it's about the best you can get without going to the super expensive stuff, such as Zaino's.

Another way to strip old wax is to wash it with dish soap, such as dawn.

 

The only problem i had with the 3 step is the third step carbura wax it doesn't last long at all. Life of it is about three months where the ploymer waxes are 6 to 12.

 

just trying to bump this up for some further info....

I just went to the store and bought Meguiars NXT Generation Car Wash since I ran out of my old car wash solution. So what's the next step after this? I've been using Mother's Cleaner Wax before but I am not really happy with it. I want to stick with Meguiars and try it out. I also want to prep my car possible for a future car show.

so wut's the order?

 

Here's the steps:

Wash car
Clay bar
Paint cleaner (if your paint needs it)
Polish
Wax
2nd wax coat (if you'd like, but make sure the first coat is completely dry first)
Wipe down with dry microfiber cloth or cheesecloth

Meguiars makes a NXT wax that many people seem to like, but I haven't tried it yet. For a show car, you're probably looking for the best possible look, in which case I'd recommend Zaino's. I've seen cars that have used this brand in person and their paint looks amazing It's expensive but worth it.

 

Otter typically knows what he is talking about....he has a large cranium for a lot of info storage (and the trophy to prove it!)
Here is my 2 cents:
Careful with how often you clay your car, as you do not necessesarily need to clay all the time. Once a year or 2 years depending on your environment should be sufficient.
Any final wax with polymers or resins in it will last awhile (4-6 months). I typically wax my car 2-3 times a year (Spring, summer, and just before winter), and it is garaged most of the time. You may need more protection if you have to park outside (UV rays, bird poop, tree sap, bug guts are the most damaging to paint/clearcoat...good to keep this stuff off your paint as much as possible).
As far as brands: Meguiars, Mother's and Zaino are the ones I would recommend off the shelf.
BTW - I used to manage a Ziebart (car detailing shop), so I have some experience in this area .

 

Time for me to learn something: why would you want to limit how often you clay your car? How would it cause damage?

 

I should probably clarify my statement..... I was working while I was typing that post doing like 20 things at once....

I was referring to using the same claybar over and over an over and over. Eventually you will just drag the previous contaminents over the paint which can be potentially damaging. Here is an excellent test for determining when to clay the paint: wash car, dry with chamois, make sure your hand is clean and dry and gently with minimal to no pressure wipe your hand across the hood (from middle to windshield). If it feels a little bit rough, you may want to consider the clay (make sure you always use a new one). If it is still smooth like a baby's bottom, you should be good to wax. With experience, you will know when it is worth your time.

Sorry about the confusion before.

 

See above post for clarification...
I agree with the fine cut cleaner.....but you use a high speed for that, right? It takes time (as you probably know) to master that technique. Even with fine cut you are gradually getting into the clear.
Claying takes longer, but with minimal technique --- just keep it lubed up!

 

Thanks for the clarification, you had me confused. A clay bar is only good for 2-3 uses, and if you drop it while using it, it's trash.

 

You can also hear the bar scraping over the crap (it sounds like you have sandpaper and are rubbing the car with it). If the bar is making no noise on the paint, it probably isn't picking anything up. The worst parts of my car was the fenders and bottom half of all the doors. My roof, trunk and hood were all pretty much wax-ready before the claying.

 

Yes sometimes you have to use high speed for the fine cut cleaner. But the megiuars product #2 fine cut cleaner can be used with an orbital buffer or by hand. The slower the rotaion may be more work. But it is effective all three ways i have tested it myself. In some really bad areas if you only have a buffer you may have to do it a couple more times than you would a polisher. The only about this product that makes it's super safe to use by buffer and by hand is that there is no grit. this is a cream just like any wax.