too make a long story short my used 04 RA's clutch was abused by the previous owner..(i bought it in october of this past year)...soo i took it to the dealer (under warranty) and they say i need a new clutch and bearings...NOW heres the dilema, i cant put a stage 1 aftermarket clutch on it because im not putting out enough power and im doing everyday driving soo itll burn out right? soo what do i do?? is the RRM clutch and flywheel something i can get??? i need a clutch and bearings set for everyday use/driving...not looking for performance right now so owhat should i do, buy, and go????

 

what clutch and a throuout bering for 1.2k?


no man you are getting ripped off

 

Get in there and fill that place with uppercuts.

 

Dude, buy a RRM clutch & flywheel, and take it somewhere else to get installed. For the same amount of $$$ you'll have a waaaaaay better setup!

 

My car recently did the same thing at 75K miles. I thought it was the throwout bearing, but it turned out one of the dampner springs on the clutch popped out. It sounded just like a bad bearing, and I had to struggle to shift.
Honestly, I have no clue how the RA trans works, but on my OZ, there is a hydrolic throwout bearing... that bearing alone is like 200 bucks. The clutch is the cheap part compared to that. An average shop will charge about 500-700 bucks for the job....but if you know how to turn a wrench, and follow directions, do it yourself.

But I would try a different dealer first....3 month old clutch shouldn't go out already. And they SHOULD repace it, but we're talking Mitsubishi here...

 

Isn't the clutch part of the warranty or is it considered a wear item like brakes? I would think that it is covered.

 

How would a clutch on a 2004 vehicle be 3 months old?

Anyway, I would buy an aftermarket clutch if I planned on making more power, but not one that is extremely heavy. Compare it the price of the stock clutch. Use a Mitsubishi TOB and then you can compare labor prices from dealer to tuner shop.
They will probably say you need a new flywheel too.

Either way, I think you are going to be out at least $800 unless you do it yourself.

 

That should be covered under warranty or at least part of the drive train I would think.

 

hmm well i just went and compared the clutchmasters and the RRM systems and here they are:

CLUTCHMASTERS:
FX100 (Stage I)
· High performance street system
· Holding capacity 70% over stock
· Heavy-Duty reinforced pressure plate
· Hi-Leverage™ pressure ring design
· Sprung hub/cushioned disc
· Steel backed organic friction material

All Clutch Masters systems come complete with:
Pressure Plate
Clutch Disc
Throw-out Bearing (when applicable)
Pilot Bearing or Bushing (when applicable)
Alignment Tool

PRICE: $395

RRM:
This clutch set fits Manual transmissions. It is a perfect replacement for the stock one but with more clamping force. This kit includes all parts needed to install the clutch. All components shown are included. With approximately 2200 lbs of force, it is stron enough to launch on but not too stiff for daily stop and go driving!

PRICE: $459

soo idk guys what do you think? and do i need a flywheel too? all they said was a clutch and bearings soo i would think not...

 

Some people will or will not resurface a stock flywheel. Mitsubishi probably doesn't recommend it. So if the person before you brutal on the clutch, then the flywheel probably has some damage too, but maybe you can just take it to a machine shop and have it resurfaced. A 2100/2200 lb clutch should hold all the power you'll ever make, but it will most likely still have an organic street disc so it will not stand up to repeated heavy launches. If the flywheel is reused and isn't resurfaed and has some imperfections, the clutch will chatter.

 

LMFAO! ya...someone at that dealership must be high on crack. I would get the RRM flywheel and get the clutchmasters clutch LOL..... Buy a case of beer and get a mechanic friend to help you do it. right there you save a few hundy.....and then you can order like......a pulley or something else too LOL.

 

hmm well i think im reconsidering the after market clutches because im not putting out enough power for a stage 1 clutch right? soo itd burn out even faster...no?

 

2X Get your hands dirty !


I hate to say dealerships rip you off....but they do.

 

Having a "stage 1" clutch on even a stock car will not burn it up faster unless you are abusing it by slipping it, riding it, or just overall can't drive a stick.

 

If you have the money, do the flywheel. It is a great improvement over stock as far as throttle response for heal and toe shifting. Not to mention less rotational mass=more HP to the ground. It might not be much with the flywheel, but it's something. Like GPTourer said, the clutch is not going to burn up faster unless you abuse it. It should last longer under normal driving, and you will definitely notice how solid your launches feel. The rating on the clutch only tells you how much pressure the plates exert on themselves, which translates into how much pressure you must apply to the pedal to disengage the clutch and consequently how much torque the clutch can hold before slipping. Good luck with the install if you try it yourself. I would expect to pay around 300 or 400 for labor if you decide to get it put in somewhere. We aren't talking about a simple job, it will probably take a pro at least 6 hours to do the job if everything goes perfectly, which it usually doesn't. Not to mention the time for the TOB and flywheel if you do that too. Figure another 2 hours shop time there.