Anyone's CAI do this?
Originally Posted by otter
Doesn't help that our engines move so damn much. I'm positive that the only reason mine hasn't broken is because the AEM bypass I put in allows some flex.
aem says its purpose is to prevent hydrolock when the intake inlet is completely submersed. The is a definite sound difference, and probably a little power difference, with the bypass valve installed. I have seen one break.
Unless you are driving through deep *** puddles you don't need this, and if you have it you had better keep an eye on it.
Originally Posted by amg_dragon
Now I realize that the engine moves quite a bit stock. You have to be freaking kidding me to say THAT is the reason this CAI broke! I'll accept material defect from Injen as a possibility but where is the missing piece? That piece not only broke the welds but tore the metal... I went "off roading" into a concrete barrier and bent/broke inner tie rods and lower control arm and didn't generate enough force to break my Injen CAI. So I'm more than a little curious to hear what your car has been doing! I'm guessing a little something more forcefull than "revving it up at a stoplight". If not then I would DEMAND a refund or replacement from them.
My money is on a material defect or the previous owner being unreasonably harsh on their car. My car is a commuter but there's plenty of stoplights, on ramps and hapless speedbumps in training to drive around on the way to work. Anyways, my point being that I'm not "soft" on my CAI and I've never seen so much as a stress crack around the welds or any damage to the metal around the weld. You should seriously contact INJEN about it and raise your concerns about potential engine damage resulting in a piece of their product trying to enter your engine.... or something similar to get them off the high horse and into a placating mode. I can't locate my warantee card so I'm not positive about it being a 90day or limited lifetime warranty. Acording to Injen's website it's a limited lifetime warranty. Worst case senario, buy a new one or find someone local that just bought one and trade it in for a replacement.
Originally Posted by DangerousDan
My friend has a civic with an aem intake. until recently he also had the bypass valve. The valve split in two pieces, so make sure you check it periodically. I am beginning to think that the bypass valve is a good idea at all.
aem says its purpose is to prevent hydrolock when the intake inlet is completely submersed. The is a definite sound difference, and probably a little power difference, with the bypass valve installed. I have seen one break.
Unless you are driving through deep *** puddles you don't need this, and if you have it you had better keep an eye on it.
aem says its purpose is to prevent hydrolock when the intake inlet is completely submersed. The is a definite sound difference, and probably a little power difference, with the bypass valve installed. I have seen one break.
Unless you are driving through deep *** puddles you don't need this, and if you have it you had better keep an eye on it.
You are both right. ENgine moves a lot more than you think. With an intake that does not have at least 3 inches of flex (rubber) they will break. Being aluminum, those AEM and Injens are like tin cans. They get worked back and forth until they tear next to the weld. Like pulling the opening tap on a coke can!
ROAD/RACE
ROAD/RACE
Wow, I'm sold... I'll take RRMs. Besides the fact that they are cheaper, why would you trust anyone else besides the lancer experts? Now I'm just debating if I should get a by-pass valve or not. I had no idea the by-pass valves broke!!! Plus i'm sure Rock wouldn't be too happy with me cutting their intake in half to install a by-pass valve :-p
the bypass valve will break, regardless of the mounts. they are flimsy and weak plastic pieces of junk. I would only install one if it was absolutely necessary where I lived, and I would make sure to check under the foam at every oil change to make sure there are no stress cracks forming.