15 AFR is 1.5V, which is a standard narrowband o2 sensor max. I said you need a wideband so you can log a driving session to see if you are lean, and where you are lean. the whole point of the wideband is that it will tell you what a narrowband can't. 15 AFR will not throw a system too lean code, because that is the AFR the ECU is shooting for in the first place (14.7) The too lean code is caused by the ECU evaluating the two o2 sensors together over a period of time. that's why I keep saying you need to be SURE you are running lean, a narrowband sensor won't be able to tell you that definitively without you assuming it is functioning properly. the code could be caused because your REAR sensor is failing, for that matter.

Basically, the ECU is telling you that there is an issue, and you want to ask the ECU if there is an issue

edit: to elaborate, the CAT converter uses heat and and chemical elements to properly remove pollutants from the exhaust. It expects a certain AFR to function properly, and if you don't input the correct AFR it will output exhaust components that the 2nd o2 sensor isn't supposed to see. Same thing with the temperature, the catalyst won't work if you are too far from the header because the exhaust will cool too much. just to provide more support to my point that you need an external measurement to conclude anything further from your CEL

 

OK guys, I'm on my 3rd tank of 93 Octane and no CEL. Why would a SRI require higher octane? I'll be driving another 150 miles today, and again on Monday. I'll probably drive at least 100 in between. I'll try moonshine next.

 

different octanes burn differently, and contain different amounts of chemicals that interact with your o2 sensors and catalyst. that's why the AFR's between 87 and 93 octane will be very different, and why you can't generally tune a turbocharged engine to run on lower octane gas safely.

the lower octane just doesn't cut it, and I've posted \/this\/ before, but see my new info box<<<------?

regular 87=worthless for someone looking to get anything but cheap gas
mid grade 89=good for normal people not driving a POS or looking for cheap gas
premium 91=getting there, good if you tune, meh if you don't. I would stay with "mid-grade" without a tune.
premium 93=waste of money, unless you tune for it.
race gas 94+=better tune for it, or you are wasting money and other peoples time with your ignorance if you think it will help your car without a tune

 

Ten-four.

 

im just pulling stuff outta my behind, but i think it might have to do with the air being sucked in faster. since there's more air going through, there's a greater gas/air ratio. and since low octane burns quick, it's not good enough, so its probbably lean. higher octane burns slower so it doesnt need as much gasoline?

now that i think about it. that's stupid. from what i said, thatd mean that using higher octane gives you better milage because it uses less gas. nevermind. forget what i said. haha. i dont know why sri needs higher octane.

my car used to throw the CEL as well. switched to 89, didnt go on as quick after resetting ecu. went to 91 and it hasnt gone on since. :] im happy now.

and mychevy adjusted my valve lash for me for free. haha. i get free oil changes and crap still. yayyy


btw. mine's auto, but this thing ****in pulls.
oh yeah. and i have a custom SRI btw.



and also. a quick question off topic. haha. is it bad to use the low gears to race? when i do a 15mph roll, i love to put it in low gear and then switch up at the right speeds. the car ****in launches when its in low gear cruising. is that bad at all? i know the low gear has engine breaking.

 

manual shifting and auto tranny is a bad thing. if you don't care about rebuilding a couple years sooner than necessary continue, because it damn sure makes a car more fun


+1 to manual transmissions, btw, btw, btw, btw

 

haha. yeahh. if i really love this car to death, and want this to be my car in the future, and i dont care how much money i "waste" on it, could i change it into a manual? is that possible? haha. i also wanna make those rear wheels active some day. :]

or maybe ill just quit with the low gear racing and put nos. :]

 

on a happier note, the cel as mentioned before came on after I finished working on my exhaust a couple weeks ago is off again. I reset the ECU once and it came back on, this time it went out on it's own on the way to lunch.

I can only see two things here. I don't normally drive like I have been because my car is leaking oil a little in mivec, but last night I decided instead of babying it to check the oil after each journey and carry some with me so I am driving like I was before I created the problem. the other thing it could be is I didn't unplug the battery long enough for the ECU to completely clear each time, and it has just now relearned the exhaust flow. the second time I reset the ECU by unplugging the battery the clock didn't even lose time

Either way, we'll see in another 200 miles or so if it's back on. I don't think it will be back this time, they usually don't reappear if they go out on their own.

 

you would probably damage the tranny as much, or even more, with a good shot of nos, but it would be much more fun to drive.

yes, any lancer can be converted to any other lancer with limited modifications due to all of them starting with the same base chassis. If you don't believe me, PM Diavlo and ask him.

 

poor mivec leaking oil. :[ sadness. haha



______________________________________
ralliart actually owns a lot of cars. :]

 

that includes evos? cause i heard frm a friend that a guy here in salinas, ca turned his ES into an evo. but it still pretty much looked stock.

i dont see the point in that though. the es is kinda ugly. haha

 

even evos

 

Hey Dan, where the Mivec leaking from?...Sorry to hijack, but its too interesting?

 

at the oil pressure sensor after the oil sender valve that controls the mivec switchover.

 

That'll show you to not keep tampering with it....lol/jk

No ideas on how to stop it? Or not much time