I don't have a base tune for your car, hence you sending me some logs and your base map. you really don't even need to send me your base map, I could probably make suggestions without it, it just makes it easier so I can send a map back to you rather than a bunch of +1.3's and +1.5's.

I spent a lot of time tweaking my map when I first got into tuning the split second unit. I also spent a decent amount of time helping guys like you richen up their lean base tunes through PM/email Have you read through the piggyback software and piggyback maps threads? I have a tuning with a wideband thread specific to the RA and split second out there somewhere IIRC too. it's mostly basic stuff, but there are some useful tuning techniques that I used that will make it easier for you to tweak your final mapping.

let me know. you can pm me or email me through the site, I think I still have that option checked in my preferences.

 

Buying some drag slicks and going to make some of my own parts for my NA RA.....I have been researching alot from what i have accomplished with Hot Rods i am going to apply to my RA..... Soon i will be in the 13's.....hopefully before summer.....then i will work on 12's.....keep all yall posted....I am going to start designing a few things for my RA that will make it stand out and maybe even get me the my goal of the first RA in the 10's. Stay tuned for the show ya'll.....

 

we've been waiting for you since first claimed to have the fastest NA RA.

 

Just been shedding some weight off the car so far..... Took away 65lbs from changing the Rims,Tires,Removing spar, and crash guards. I can loose up to 500-700 more pounds just off afew more things on my car. I will take some pics soon...

 

^^
do what we did here, if you want after all you are talking at some point to make the car a 'drag' car

-take out the p/s and all of its components (yeah muscle turning powah!)
-take out the a/c and all of its components
-take out the tar undercoat from the carpet and the insulation from the carpet
-take the crash reinforcements from the doors (passenger's and rear doors only, think of your safety)
-convert power windows to power 'manual' (made from aluminum parts (check old VW systems -for Bugs-)


if i remember correctly those things account for 520~535lbs

 

I can still remove the SRS systems....air bags, seats into lightweight ones eliminating the Side impact airbags. And the stereo system...

 

I also do not have any carbon hood, trunk lid etc....i still have alot to remove in order to loose alot of weight..... I can make something up inorder to get those windows to work......

 

If it is an 05, CF hood will shed some good pounds

 

taking the back bench out shouldn't be too hard to do and reverse for a track day. They also make ~5lb aluminum racing drivers seats. Its basically an aluminum frame with minimal pad. Grab one of those (they are cheap) and ditch the passenger seat as well. Just a few easy and cheap things you can do to lean it down, and its easy to reverse after the event. if your serious about seeing 13's, and even dreaming about 12's, you'll probably at least need to swap out the seats. Check out Kirkley seats. You can a decent one for $45, or a bit more comfy one for around $100.

 

Got a dyno day this friday. I will post up whenever i get the chance. I have been working with my machinest about my drag engine build. I haven't been able to do alot since i work alot I haven't been able to do alot to the car yet. I will post my progress in the NA section called SSP build. Thanks for tuning in.

 

hello dyno charts! can't wait to see them should be any time now.

 

Just as another suggestion with wheel slippage your tire pressure is up a bit as well I would of thought 21psi would be more suitable for the fronts...

Have you thought about raising the compression ratio to something more like 10:5.1 or even as high as 11:0.1 with better pistons to match especially considering that you have already got a very high duration camshaft...

And lastly what sort of work have you done to the suspenssion if the front is very soft (stock) then getting the power directly down to the ground would not be helping your cause if it was setup a little firmer it means the front end is not seesawing up and down on gear shifts using up inertia power..

good luck with this I am really looking forward to seeing what you can achieve

 

Well man how did it go?

 

Sorry about not posting yet. i will later.

 

Need to do more things to the car. Now i need to find my dyno sheet.