Yeah, you should have changed the bearings for sure. Also, if you're on stock rods still you should have checked the stretch. I'm not for sure about your car but most mitsu stock bolts are "torqued to yield" bolts. Usually you only want to tighten them once. The second time can lead to over torque and then... snap.

You can usually tell a "torque to yield" bolt by the way the manufacturer tells you to tighten. Usually it will have a torque setting and then tell you to do a half turn or so past that. Those are "torque to yield" bolts and meant for one use only. They should be replaced new if you do another change out.

Just FYI

 

They may of been torque to yield but i also didn't have my manual on hand. They seemed ok from what i saw. I have pulled the pan and pulled the crank. All looks good. I will have to see what else could of happened. I am guessing maybe my oil pump or something of that nature. I can't really tell. I will have to remove the engine from the car now.

 

Either way that car ran awsome with the new pistons i got but something failed. Nothing in the rotating assembly thank god. Looks like i got my work cut out for me now. Once i get it back together and running again i will hit the track.

 

nice stuff, any dyno numbers?

 

I can't say to be exact since i'm not there but if you were hearing a lout ticking above... say 4k rpms... then you may of just had a valve lash adjuster go flat. It's happened to me many times. Then I started pre-soaking and pumping them up prior to install. The manual should have a section on this as well. At the time "lash adjusters" were new to me. But they are not much different than "lifters."

Check your valve assemblies and ensure there are none with excessive play... the one(s) that do have that are flat/stuck. Replace them if you can't get them unfrozen.

 

so you saying if you waiting a second and a half to take off they would not take that off your time.... thats why they have the little green light....silly

 

You do not win the race maybe but time is started when you trip the beam.

ROAD/RACE

 

Exactly... the light is there as it's a competition and you need a way for a mutual start.

As a rule... any RT under .500 is generally considered a "red light" as it's not possible to get that close since it takes about that long for one light to extinguish and the other to come on. Some deviate from that and state it in their registrations.

The actual time of your travels doesn't start until you've actually started movement which is monitored by the 2 beams... Staging (1,2)

 

I got the RA back up and going. Nothing too serious, just my oil pump gernated, but everything is fine and back in running order. The RA right now is on the back burner. I have to finish rebuilding a 94 RX7TT for a buddy of mine, get paid, then get my 68 camaro running again for a car show.

 

Before this year is over i will hit 12's. I'm in no rush.

 

yo that is krazy i have RRM Header back exhaust, RRM Intake manifold, CAI, RRM piggy, RRM Underdrive Pulley. i am going to get RRM stage 2 cam what is a Hyper Voltage system where did you get it i ran a 17 on the track ??? it was 87 that day

 

ummm a 17 would indicate possible driver error no??? i think they run like a 14 or 15 stock??

 

YEa. I think so too. NO traction too. LSD is a must if you drag for low ETs.

ROAD/RACE

 

my car is fast to me but when i am on the track i run bad ??? rt 0.400 finish at 82 miles i must suck at the track ran 17 or it was hot that day

 

What is the latest? I added your accomplishment to ur website. It is monumental.

ROAD/RACE