Need help Please
Need help Please
Here is the problem.
Long story short. I was driving sputter pop then Idle and thats It.
If I put the car in gear it will not die it will pull it self but will not go above 800rpm.
I just in stalled RRM Header down pipe it came with the CEL elminator. I had not Cel for 4 days then yesterday after work the light came on I figured it was the exhaust but now I am not sure.
Mixture is change all the time. Its not staying full rich or full lean. thus acting normal. Any help anyone?
Long story short. I was driving sputter pop then Idle and thats It.
If I put the car in gear it will not die it will pull it self but will not go above 800rpm.
I just in stalled RRM Header down pipe it came with the CEL elminator. I had not Cel for 4 days then yesterday after work the light came on I figured it was the exhaust but now I am not sure.
Mixture is change all the time. Its not staying full rich or full lean. thus acting normal. Any help anyone?
car is in limp mode, reset ecu by disconnecting negative terminal on battery, start the car, let idle for 10 mins and drive under 3k rpm for 15 to relearn fuel maps.
before you do that, go to autozone or something and get the code read, post it up and we will be able to help you more.
before you do that, go to autozone or something and get the code read, post it up and we will be able to help you more.
Last edited by joeyj; Jun 30, 2009 at 05:05 PM. Reason: otter FTW
Problem is not fixed and I have not reset the ECU yet but the dealership says my new RRM exhaust has cause the MAP sencer to **** the bed. There telling thats what the engine light is for. I though the light always throws a fault code tho? Do anyone else think the dealership is feed a ton of BS?
There's hundreds of things that will cause a CEL. I would believe them about the MAF going bad. However, they're full of **** when they say the exhaust caused it. If it is the MAF, fix it yourself, not worth it to pay them tons of money to do it. Either find the part at a junk yard, or buy a new one online (mitsubishiparts.net has it for $157+ shipping) If you buy the part from the dealer, it'll be $200 + labor.
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Actronics is the brad most of the Auto parts stores carry. There good and have a few diff models some tell you what the code means and other just the code but both can erase the CEL. Also they are around 20-30 for the base model and 150 ish for the top model. i use the 150$ actron that tells you the code meaning to but the cheap one comes with a book for lookin up codes so you can save if you dont want to be lazy
I actually did that too the first time and well... it basically chokes your cars power cause the reading is off and then you will eat up alot more gas cause of it according to otter







