Well... This WAS supposed to be my very first How-to video.... but.. some things happened.... more specifically, feeler gauges are small enough to fall in to the oil galleries in the head *first hand experience*

after a half hour of panicking, contemplating ideas, and 6 paperclips all joined together, I finally managed to pull it out of the oil passage way.

By the time that was all done and over, my engine was starting to get cold, so I had to work as quickly as I could. therefore.. no pictures of the process...

anyways, I did manage to capture before and after videos of the noise difference from the valve cover. I do have another noise though, maybe someone can diagnose it for me?

heres the video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=asO0NY5izDk

 

Nice vid , differences are very noticable I have to go about doing this soon....

 

Thanks, but what ever you do.... DON'T DROP THE FEELER GAUGE DOWN THE OIL GALLERY... seriously.. I was about to rip off the oil pan to get it out... luckily I saw it about 7 inches down the hole and dropped it with the hole side up.

other tips, I adjusted the 2 valves on the exhaust side by putting the feeler gauge in side ways so it fit in both valves at the same time. once I got the set screw to contact I just put a socket over top and snugged it lightly. then re-checked the clearance.
When I tried to tighten it with a wrench, I broke off a part of the set screw tip, luckily I caught that small piece with a magnet. the set screw didn't move when I turned the locking nut, so I just used a socket. but find out what works for you

cheers, and good luck =)

 

if you had the feeler guage that most pple do with the whole set you could never drop it in there. and yes do be carful the setr screw arnt very strong.

 

I do have the whole set. But I took it out so it wouldn't be so cumbersome to work with

 

I strongly recommend against leaving the set together. First time I set my valve lash, the little nut that holds the set together spun off and dropped down an oil channel. Had to remove the oil pan to get it out. Plus, it's easier to get the feeler gauge into the back side of the valve train if it's not attached to the set.

 

^ what Otter said =)

 

Dave, how many km's on your car now?

 

143954 Km Exactly. because I'm doing my 144000km major service at the moment. and now I'm pissed.

referring to this thread: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/04...stions-11.html

the #$$%ing D-Bag #$%#ing used an impact on tranny filler and drain plugs to spite me since I've came back so many times with things he %^&ed up on.

so now I'm going to westside to get something done about that. the old service manager Amanda Roy got the boot, probably because she was doing a ****ty job. hopefully Eric the mechanic who worked on my car also got the boot and is working at McDonalds because he shouldn't be around another vehicle until he learns to control his ego and testosterone levels, as well as gain some pride in workmanship.

All I want is my Tranny Drain plugs loosened, and if the threads are ****ed, then the threads fixed.

If they don't, do you think if I explained my situation to northside that they would do it for free?

 

if you told them exactly like you said it here but more mean and pissed off..... maybe. lol

 

Anyone have any advise on how to do this with the rrm pulley on as I forgot to mark it when I put it on and after moving a couple times cannot locate the stock pulley

 

Use the timing marks on the cam sprocket?

 

long story short, new service manager was nice on the phone, got there, apparently he heard my story from the general manager, the service foreman, and the service advisor, and he was not so nice when I got there.

I hope he understands that I was not trying to scam him or anything, all I wanted was my drain plugs loosened and tightened to the proper torque specs, and if the threads were damaged, them repaired.

Took me 5 minutes of arguing with him and then me requesting to talk to the general manager, before he agreed to put it on the lift, and loosen the plugs.

after that, I shook his hand, thanked him, then left.

But I know that I am no longer welcome there. Therefore this will be my last Mitsubishi I own. Once I sell it, I'm done with Mitsu. If I get an evo or anything, it will be from the states. chances are that I won't get any Mitsu products because I am just sick and tired of this ****.

Souless: put the key hole in the 3 o-clock position and cylinder #1 will be at TDC, Otter can confirm this, as well as use the search function in the 04-06 Ralliart how to forum.

by the way, Amanda and Eric were fired. that's all for now because I don't want to rant on.

 

There is one marking on the timing sprocket, so when the mark is lined up, #1 is TDC on compression stroke, when the mark is 180deg, cylinder 4 is TDC on compression stroke.

 

@canada_comp, i've neer had any issues with northside.. if they **** somethign up and you point it out they good to fix it..

like when i switched over to synthetic oil the oem drain plug wasn't making a good enuf seal it was dripping from the between the plug and the hole, once i noticed i took it in they replaced the plug and even topped me up on the oil i lost... they had to go out and buy it cause i'm using royal purple.

if a mechanic at a dealership ****ed it up talk to northside mike the service manager is a pretty decent dude in my experience