05 Lancer Ralliart Idle problems
well i have pistons and the head is cut, stage 3 clucth but other than that no. my car has 120,000 but im having the exact problem ralliartumis is having with ac on it will try to stall out but with it off i has a good chance it will...right now im not driving ima have it checked out tomorrow
what compression ratio are the pistons? and you said you have a cut head? you mean a shaved head? if so how much was taken off? that could effect the compression as well and therefore mess with your oem tune. you should get it tuned and post up some pics since you've got some work done
well i have pistons and the head is cut, stage 3 clucth but other than that no. my car has 120,000 but im having the exact problem ralliartumis is having with ac on it will try to stall out but with it off i has a good chance it will...right now im not driving ima have it checked out tomorrow
Are you having the same problem as I am with the AC off?
I have an update.
I cleaned my MAF on Saturday, and my problem seemed to go away. Then on Sunday my car started stalling again. At one point, the car stalled, and then the check engine light came on, and the car would not go past 2500 RPM.
The code it gave me was P2100, Throttle Actuator Control Motor Circuit (Open).
I cleared the code, and so far, the problem was disappeared (for now).
I cleaned my MAF on Saturday, and my problem seemed to go away. Then on Sunday my car started stalling again. At one point, the car stalled, and then the check engine light came on, and the car would not go past 2500 RPM.
The code it gave me was P2100, Throttle Actuator Control Motor Circuit (Open).
I cleared the code, and so far, the problem was disappeared (for now).
You bought pistons, bored, and honed the block , and installed pistons but you don't know the compression ratio :/ why was it that you even replaced them?
I'm going to try and say this as respectfully as I can... but you are either confused with inches and millimeters, or your a liar. The head is slightly less than 5 inches thick ,if you took an inch off you would have so many problems that your car wouldn't even start and if you took another inch and a half off you would have a big custom made paper weight.
And in this day and age if you can't take pics , I call BS...
I'm going to try and say this as respectfully as I can... but you are either confused with inches and millimeters, or your a liar. The head is slightly less than 5 inches thick ,if you took an inch off you would have so many problems that your car wouldn't even start and if you took another inch and a half off you would have a big custom made paper weight.
And in this day and age if you can't take pics , I call BS...
Last edited by lanzerralliart; Jun 26, 2011 at 06:21 PM.
I can see 1-2 mm but 1-2.5" ?
What?
edit: completely forgot about the mentioned code, that sounds like it could be related to the TPS (throttle positioning sensor). Check the harness and see if it's damaged or corroded, but if you cleared the code and it appears to work fine (though intermittently) maybe the connects are dirty or not in good contact. A failing/failed TPS will put a car in to limp mode if the throttle valve's position is not in agreement with the computer (electronic throttle control)
If that's you're problem then you might as well get a new TB or upgrade to the 65mm
What?
edit: completely forgot about the mentioned code, that sounds like it could be related to the TPS (throttle positioning sensor). Check the harness and see if it's damaged or corroded, but if you cleared the code and it appears to work fine (though intermittently) maybe the connects are dirty or not in good contact. A failing/failed TPS will put a car in to limp mode if the throttle valve's position is not in agreement with the computer (electronic throttle control)
If that's you're problem then you might as well get a new TB or upgrade to the 65mm
Last edited by nerdbotSKRA; Jun 26, 2011 at 11:15 PM.
I can see 1-2 mm but 1-2.5" ?
What?
edit: completely forgot about the mentioned code, that sounds like it could be related to the TPS (throttle positioning sensor). Check the harness and see if it's damaged or corroded, but if you cleared the code and it appears to work fine (though intermittently) maybe the connects are dirty or not in good contact. A failing/failed TPS will put a car in to limp mode if the throttle valve's position is not in agreement with the computer (electronic throttle control)
If that's you're problem then you might as well get a new TB or upgrade to the 65mm
What?
edit: completely forgot about the mentioned code, that sounds like it could be related to the TPS (throttle positioning sensor). Check the harness and see if it's damaged or corroded, but if you cleared the code and it appears to work fine (though intermittently) maybe the connects are dirty or not in good contact. A failing/failed TPS will put a car in to limp mode if the throttle valve's position is not in agreement with the computer (electronic throttle control)
If that's you're problem then you might as well get a new TB or upgrade to the 65mm

I actually took off my TB and gave it a little bit of a clean (Shouldn't have waited until 7pm on a Sunday to buy the cleaner), and so far today it hasn't given me any problems. So maybe it was just a dirty TB.
I checked all of my contacts, and I didn't see any corrosion. The wiring harness is also in good condition.
throttle control actuator motor is what drives the throttle plate in the throttle body itself, i doubt it's the TPS. If cleaning the throttle body fixes the problem, then maybe the gunk in the TB was making the plate get stuck, which would cause a high resistance through the motor, and possibly causing an open circuit fault. Otherwise you youd be wise to replace the throttle body.
Yes, the GT TB is something I want to do, but at $250 (after shipping), it will have to wait a little while longer.
But the good news is some far I have noticed increased throttle response, and a lack of stalling since the cleaning. I will have to remember to do this more often.
But the good news is some far I have noticed increased throttle response, and a lack of stalling since the cleaning. I will have to remember to do this more often.
That was just the best price I have seen on car-parts/ebay, not actually calling around looking for one.
Ha, yea he hasn't responded for a bit.
To the OP, take your TB off and give it a clean and inspection. It may not be your MAF, but your TB. Also, where did you remove the cap from? Before or after the TB?
Ha, yea he hasn't responded for a bit.
To the OP, take your TB off and give it a clean and inspection. It may not be your MAF, but your TB. Also, where did you remove the cap from? Before or after the TB?
Bringing up an old thread so I cleaned out my throttle body and my car is idling at 1500 is this normal? Before it used to idle at 1000 when the car is warm. When I shut off my car it seems likes its choking and the whole car shakes as if it was being left in gear and reaches a low rpm. (Something like a stall) What could be causing this? It wasn't like this before I cleaned the Tb.



