rzrxn

iTrader: (1)

I'm thinking of grabbing one of those pen style digital ones
I will take a trip to partsource and see what they have.

nekkidlad

iTrader: (4)

u'll probably get less mpg actually...but more power...
(extra airflow through the engine requires more fuel or it'd lean out, therefore reducing gas mileage...power = less mpg..unless you're in a diesel...then it's power = not that bad mpg)...for mpg u want a leaner fuel mixture, but if u add more air coming in the engine the car's computer will see the extra air and try to keep the ratio the same by adding fuel so u get more power, but less mpg

u could try a fuel saver tune/reflash of some kind...and it's not gonna be cheap...i think they said hackish's tune is ~$400 right..?
..which includes various power tunes and a fuel saver one as well IIRC?

i suppose you could also try(wich if you've read up on hypermiling you already know...) turn off the car at stoplights and train tracks etc when u stop and idle for a extended time...

true...very stupid....
but if u turn the car off, it doesnt lock the steering wheel unless you remove the key from the ignition...and if you're moving already, you don't have power steering, but it's much easier to turn the wheel unlike at a stop where it's f'n impossible to turn the wheel...

if you look at cars with "variable power assist" that's exactly what they do...they remove or reduce power steering assist at speed because you don't NEED it once the car is already moving(granted they stay running...but u get the picture)

i suppose you could just idle down a hill, and that's MUCH safer and still fuel effective

xmaster19

iTrader: (1)

I always thought that more power could equal fuel savings.

If your car puts down more power, you won't need to rev as high to produce the same power, then end up saving fuel. I understand that it's power curve related, but sensitive mods could help towards better fuel economy?

The reflash has already been proven to help greatly with fuel mileage, as it relies on leaning out the fuel curve to produce gains. Win-win is you ask me.

The thing is, it's not really what you drive that matters, it's how you drive it.

Top Gear staged a race where a Prius would go flat out and they would have a newer V8 M3 follow the Prius, without overtaking it.

The Prius ended up using more fuel than the M3, even though it had half the cylinders.

For those interested, link :

lanzerralliart

iTrader: (15)

Be sure to check the psi requirements for your particular tires. 36 psi could be high for one model tire but low for another

xmaster19

iTrader: (1)

Isn't tire pressure car related instead of tire related?

nekkidlad

iTrader: (4)

yes and no...
but you can adjust them to you liking or need...
just because it says 33 or 35 or 30 on your doorsill for recommended pressure, if you put 40 or 20 or 50 doen't mean your car will instantly catch on fire, or flip, or explode...
it will wear the tires differently than designed yes, and may give u a bouncy ride or a mushy ride...maybe adjust your gas mileage(more air = more mpg, less air = less mpg)
they both have their benefits and their drawbacks...less pressure theoretically spreads out the tire under the car and gives you more traction, but also less response, more pressure does the opposite theoretically reducing the contact patch on the road because the tire rounds out a bit more and giving you less grip...
thats not to say it's really not much of a noticeable difference if the car says 33 and you put 40 doesnt mean you'lll be slipping and sliding around like on an ice rink...
and if you put 28 doesnt mean you'll be able to climb 90* hills from the extra added traction...

but if you install different tire as than originally on the car, technically you also change the required pressure based on the load rating of the tire and the intended use of the car(with said tires)...and how much weight is in/on the car etc etc...

if you want a bunch of technical info u can look online and/or ask peopel that work in the tire business...
but basically that's more than enough info up there...^^

Cncr

Sorry for necro but I'm pulling this code and having these symptoms aswell. It also sounds like it's missing but I'm not getting any codes for that. Could a bad IAT also cause this? Just want to try narrow down the issue before throwing parts at it. I plan on replacing the purge solenoid and cleaning the canister.

bakuro117

iTrader: (5)

Hey Cncr,

I would remove the Purge Valve Solenoid from your Intake Manifold and test it. You can hook it up to a 9-volt battery with some leads to test. You should hear it click whenever you connect the battery. If there is no click you can attempt to clean it out with some penetrating oil or brake clean. While you've soaked it keep tapping the connection on the battery to attempt moving the actuator inside the solenoid. Hopefully, this will loosen up the actuator and get it working again. If it is clicking when connected to the battery, you can put a hose on it and blow into the hose. If the air is bypassing it should stop when connected to the battery. The opposite can also be true. If you can't blow thru it, connecting it to the battery should allow you to blow thru. The switching behavior is what is important here. If the switching behavior isn't seen then the solenoid is no good and needs to be replaced.

As far as asking about the IAT. The Ralliart's IAT is built into the MAF sensor so you would be getting codes for a faulty MAF if there was any issue with that system.

Cncr

Thanks for the info, I'm just going to replace it.

Unfortunately I've run into other problems with flooding, did a quick start and stop in cold weather. 😕