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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 09:54 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by BriK
Tire pressure is the best free mod possible. But unless someone has the exact same tires on the exact same car, I wouldn't blindly listen to their recommendations for tire pressures. In other words, the 26, 27, and 28 mentioned above are waaaay too low for me as I fill to between 32 and 34 cold, which then rises to 36 or more when hot.

In general though, higher pressures in back will mean less contact patch and a firmer sidewall which will mean it will be looser. Lower pressures in front will provide more contact patch and looser sidewall, making for more grip but less response.

I'd also look into an alignment. Not sure of prices where you are, or how much room the RA has to play with, but it should only cost ~$100 and will also do a lot to improve the front contact patch.
I agree, that is way to low. I am running 40 psi all they way around.
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 10:15 AM
  #17  
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sorry! i hit the new post button and didn't see this is the ralliart section!

good luck...
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 11:17 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 2006_RA
What do the rules of your class allow ?

Start there.

A rear sway bar if allowed is the way to go.

Experiment with tyre pressures.

On a previous car, 28 psi all around would have the car almost spinning like a top.

Drop to 26 psi in the rear and it was understeer.
27 psi on the back and I had an almost neutral car, but under and over steer were accessible on request.


Alignment wise, getting rid of front toe in reduces understeer too.

Driving wise, lifting off the gas just after you turn into the corner, trailing the brakes etc maybe helpful depending on if you are going fast enough to generate the forward weight transfer to sufficiently let the rear lose some grip. Flicking the car the opposite direction first, then using combinations of the above and the handbrake can influence turn in too.

Oh yeah, sometimes especially in low speed turns, any attempt to get on the gas pushes the front wide. Be quick to recognise when that is the case as there is jack all you can do about it.
Where does it say the OP SHOULD USE the tyre pressures above exactly ?????

I stated on a previous car. What type of car ??? Is it that categorically NO CAR can operate successfully at those pressures ???

Hell people !

I provided an example based on my experience of how tyre pressures influenced a car that I used to have and SUGGESTED that the OP EXPERIMENT ie

1. a test or investigation, esp one planned to provide evidence for or against a hypothesis: a scientific experiment
2. the act of conducting such an investigation or test; experimentation; research
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 11:33 AM
  #19  
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LSD is easy to install, but time consuming given its location...also the torque converter is in place of the clutch/flywheel and the differential is on the complete opposite side of the drivetrain from that so i don't know why that would matter...the important thing is the dimensions of the differential.

I don't have an Automatic VIN, if you want to PM me your VIN, or download ASA and look up the part number yourself...

ASA shows two part numbers for manual Diff's

MD755473 and MD746800
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 12:01 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by 2006_RA
Where does it say the OP SHOULD USE the tyre pressures above exactly ?????

I stated on a previous car. What type of car ??? Is it that categorically NO CAR can operate successfully at those pressures ???

Hell people !

I provided an example based on my experience of how tyre pressures influenced a car that I used to have and SUGGESTED that the OP EXPERIMENT ie

1. a test or investigation, esp one planned to provide evidence for or against a hypothesis: a scientific experiment
2. the act of conducting such an investigation or test; experimentation; research

We were just saying that 26 PSI is to low for our cars. I didn't mean to offend you. Sorry.

I really appreciate all your input.
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 02:11 PM
  #21  
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i run 18psi up front on the drag strip...i tend to be around 40 on the circuit or the tires feel like they're going to roll right off the rim, lol
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Old Dec 14, 2011 | 07:00 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 2006_RA
Where does it say the OP SHOULD USE the tyre pressures above exactly ?????

I stated on a previous car. What type of car ??? Is it that categorically NO CAR can operate successfully at those pressures ???

Hell people !

I provided an example based on my experience of how tyre pressures influenced a car that I used to have and SUGGESTED that the OP EXPERIMENT ie

1. a test or investigation, esp one planned to provide evidence for or against a hypothesis: a scientific experiment
2. the act of conducting such an investigation or test; experimentation; research
Wow. You make it seem like I punched your sister.

I was just saying to experiment with tire pressures and not think XXpsi is THE answer.
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Old Dec 14, 2011 | 07:12 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by BriK
Wow. You make it seem like I punched your sister.

I was just saying to experiment with tire pressures and not think XXpsi is THE answer.
Punch my sister again, buddy, i dare you!
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Old Dec 18, 2011 | 04:17 AM
  #24  
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From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
Originally Posted by 2006_RA
What do the rules of your class allow ?

Start there.

A rear sway bar if allowed is the way to go.

Experiment with tyre pressures.

On a previous car, 28 psi all around would have the car almost spinning like a top.

Drop to 26 psi in the rear and it was understeer.
27 psi on the back and I had an almost neutral car, but under and over steer were accessible on request.

Alignment wise, getting rid of front toe in reduces understeer too.

Driving wise, lifting off the gas just after you turn into the corner, trailing the brakes etc maybe helpful depending on if you are going fast enough to generate the forward weight transfer to sufficiently let the rear lose some grip. Flicking the car the opposite direction first, then using combinations of the above and the handbrake can influence turn in too.

Oh yeah, sometimes especially in low speed turns, any attempt to get on the gas pushes the front wide. Be quick to recognise when that is the case as there is jack all you can do about it.

This. Class first.

Otter setup this car for ST. Very limited on what modifications you can do. Which is why we both like the ST_ classes. I run my Mustang in STX as well.

What's on my (otters old) RA:

http://roadracemotorsports.com/store...products_id=47

http://roadracemotorsports.com/store...roducts_id=123

http://roadracemotorsports.com/store...products_id=39

http://roadracemotorsports.com/store...roducts_id=114

Car has pronounced lift-off oversteer. Really is driven with throttle.

Approach corner. Hard brake and lift at the turn (will rotate). Immediately back on throttle once pointed in the direction you need to go.

First time I borrowed the RA a few years ago I spun it on my first hard corner. At the time I was running my SVTF in DSP. I have that car setup for road course work (very tight). The snap oversteer I got in the RA was funny and once you get the feel for it, pretty effective to rotate the car.

I might swap over to Swifts RA specific springs this summer.

Last edited by Smike; Dec 18, 2011 at 04:20 AM.
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Old Dec 18, 2011 | 06:56 AM
  #25  
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What do you mean by "lift at the turn"?

I already have the Tein springs but I am planning on getting all those items.
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Old Dec 18, 2011 | 12:34 PM
  #26  
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From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
Trail braking into the turn, quick lift of throttle = oversteer. Soon as you get close to the direction you want to be going full throttle and pull out of the turn.
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Old Dec 19, 2011 | 04:45 AM
  #27  
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Got it, thx!
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 10:42 AM
  #28  
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From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
Otters in-car from a few years ago:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQ2lw...OyUaVSXhov5C-i

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yM7_e...RpsgFuiMe-ooFy
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 11:25 AM
  #29  
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what did otter have for suspension?
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 11:58 AM
  #30  
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From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
-Tein S-tech springs w/KYB struts
-Progress 21mm rear sway bar
-Energy Suspension sway bar links front and rear
-RDD rear tie bar
-AMS front engine mount insert
-Enkei EDR9 summer wheels – 16x7 45 offset w/Dunlop Z1*
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