I could use some help from the ralliart community, I am the proud owner of a 2004 Ralliart that seems to have issues and symptoms no tuner has ever seen. My Ralliart is equipped with the 4299$ Roadrace motorsports turbo kit, I bought it back in 2010, after i bought it (came with the turbo kit/mods) i noticed the car going into some sort of limp mode when i hit 100 mph or so sometimes less, the car would just drop to like 20 mph would hardly rev and i would have to turn it off and wait 30 seconds or so before i could start it and drive again, i red the cel and just got the typical o2 sensor/maf sensor that the mods throw......a few months down the road my car started pouring smoke (burning oil) blown turbo right? i got a direct replacement from RRMS and installed it, somehow im getting oil in my exhaust manifold and intercooler more than one would assume came from blowby...aside from the smoke and oil...the car wont go over 30 or so...isnt pushing boost AT ALL...and when i rev the car the rubber hosing connecting the blow off valve to the turbo piping etc constricts like the air is being taken in so fast that the walls of the hosing suck together.....i even replaced the hosing thinking it was worn...anyone ever seen anything like this before? ive been in japan for almost a year now (military.) and id like to get it back up and running before i head back to the states...thanks. pm me if you have any good advice please

 

Well first off Welcome to Evolutionm.net !!!

Sadly to many users become members here only when a problem arises but no matter we are happy to have another turbo OG Ralliart owner.

Ok the big thing is rrms "piggyback" and "5th injector" are not top notch in the tuning department. The piggy is trying to convince the factory ecu to change it's oem settings, which is a constant battle back and forth. Eventually everything will get out of wack and you will go into limp mode. Basically the 5th injector is just spraying fuel into the intake to ensure it keeps running and since there isn't fuel being evenly distributed to each cylinder you will never reach the full potential of the car. I can almost promise you, your 2 pistons on the battery side are running rich and the other 2 are running lean. The reflash is the way to go, you can remove the fifth injector and upgrade the oem injectors then tune. It has been done before.

As for smoke pouring out the exhaust. You just have to work backwards and start taking parts off and inspecting them. Or if you can w/o taking things off but oil in the intercooler and exhaust manifold is reason enough to not drive it until things get sorted out.

Keep us all posted, and post up some pics of your car

 

resest piggy back, reset ECU.... MAF codes shouldn't come up regardless of mods, O2 codes aren't that big a deal if it's an efficiency thing...

if you're leaking oil, check your scavenge is not obstructed/kinked or restricted...

and yes, RRM turbo kit is ghetto tuned, sorry...

also where is the vacuum source for the BOV? there should only be atmospheric or boost pressure in the charge pipe, if hoses are collapsing, it means the opposite is true...

 

sorry guys im kinda new to the whole turbo thing outside of the actual hardware, the kit on the car is indeed the rrms turbo kit, i dont know how to reset my piggyback, or how to go about a reflash, when i contacted RRMS they said the only way to reflash it was to send it in to them for a reflash, i could really use some guidance on this guys, and fyi sorry for being away so long ive been deployed but ill be sure to post some pics of the ralliart shes quite unique

 

Were you given the software with the piggyback?

As for a flash, brent and hackish from Ottawa are the guys to do it... Not sure what their usernames are on here anymore... Someone will have to chime in.

Good luck man

 

if you have the piggyback on the car, my understanding was that you could reflash it yourself...

 

You can modify the tune on the piggyback if you have the split second software. Honestly, my advise is just disconnect your battery, let car sit for a bit, and then reconnect it. That'll reset your ecu. Follow this up by doing the relearn procedure for the car. If you're running this kit and not doing this process every so often your fuel trims are going to be way out of wack and things get funky as hell. I run through this process about every 2 weeks.

I've been running the rrm kit for about 2 years now, problem free. The tune is pig-rich and the piggyback isn't the optimal method of running FI but it works. I've even been running just short of 10 psi for the last month of so, monitoring knock, afr, etc. I'm beginning to feel comfortable with where its at, but have to keep AFR a bit richer (very low 10's) to feel safe with this setup.

If you have a manual transmission ralliart, I highly advise you look to Brent/Hackish in regards to getting your ecu reflashed. They've done it already for a car running the rrm kit. If you're running an automatic, then you're out of luck until we get it figured out.

 

10 AFR is VERY rich...12 would be safe...

 

Personally I feel high 10's/low 11's is the safe spot. With the 5th injector I feel safer throwing excess fuel under high boost/revs to play it safe. Tuning for high 11's is just plain risky... think about it. My wideband doesn't tell a complete story as it measures at a collected point from all 4 cylinders. I think its a fairly safe bet to say that not all 4 cylinders are seeing the same amount of fuel under boost using a 5th injector. If I tune for mid to high 11's I can fairly certainly say that 1-2 cylinders would be way to lean and I'm not interested in the result of that. I have such little control over timing/fuel with the piggyback, especially with the ecu fighting back. I think tuning rich and losing a bit of potential power is just the safest way to go about it.

And to be completely clear, low 10 afr's are only seen through the top end of the rev range. Majority of my rev range sees high 10's/low 11's. I know this isn't optimal but I don't have another option at the moment. No available auto reflash means piggyback or standalone.

 

yeah, i keep forgetting about the 5th injector...sucks though cause you're losing a lot of power that way...

 

I think im going a different route, found a pro tune shop in el paso that can redo all the electronics and fuel injection system but keep all the RRM hardware, seems like doing this first hand with a shop will give me more insight on how to handle and manage my car, i purchased the car with the kit installed and was provided no program to reflash it myself, i was told id have to send my stuff in to rrm to get it done, but because you guys asked i shall provide a pic of the lancer...finally for all to see lol

 

idk if i should touch the vinyl subject but i guess someone's gonna.

 

They had better be sponsoring you good for that huge sticker. To each their own.

 

lol that was a picture of the car a few weeks after purchasing it, i need to get some updated pics from my buddy watching it for me, before i left i removed all the carbon trim on the outside doors and headlights they were starting to get sun damaged and looked kinda meh to begin with, all the stickers are off too and its re-painted.

 

noob question, with the RRM turbo kit what factors do i need to adjust to increase the boost, its only pushed 7 since i got it, but id like to press it to 11 if i can.