Beginners guide to modding, "what route should I take my 4g69" thread
I already did the bypass Crans, per my photos upthread and honestly don't have any intention of using spacers, but I was just trying to understand the "ifs" and "thens" to all of this. Thanks MIVEC for sharing your qualifications for it does let the forum know to whom they are speaking to and whether or not they can put their trust in what you're saying, unlike myself who's forte is NOT engineering, or internal combustion at that. Got any emergency medical questions? I MIGHT be able to answer a few of those...

j/k, sorry i saw your post, i was confused by the question...
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,732
Likes: 9
From: So. Jersey (San Diego native)
I already did the bypass Crans, per my photos upthread and honestly don't have any intention of using spacers, but I was just trying to understand the "ifs" and "thens" to all of this. Thanks MIVEC for sharing your qualifications for it does let the forum know to whom they are speaking to and whether or not they can put their trust in what you're saying, unlike myself who's forte is NOT engineering, or internal combustion at that. Got any emergency medical questions? I MIGHT be able to answer a few of those...
rofl...
speaking of header, do these look like rrm ones? the guy claims they are but he seems iffy and i know kijiji can be sketchy, thanks in advance for any help http://ontario.kijiji.ca/c-ViewAdLar...AdId=366430111
RRM has a 4 to 1 design. The one in your link is a 4-2-1. Bolt pattern is also off and you have an extra bung there.

Edit: The fact that he says 02-06 also is pretty shady. Our Ralliarts only came out from 04-06.
2004-2006 Lancer Ralliart RRM Race Series Header/Downpipe
RRM has a 4 to 1 design. The one in your link is a 4-2-1. Bolt pattern is also off and you have an extra bung there.
Edit: The fact that he says 02-06 also is pretty shady. Our Ralliarts only came out from 04-06.
RRM has a 4 to 1 design. The one in your link is a 4-2-1. Bolt pattern is also off and you have an extra bung there.

Edit: The fact that he says 02-06 also is pretty shady. Our Ralliarts only came out from 04-06.
http://www.ws6.com/mod-8.htm
I'm new here and stumbled across this thread and did a quick search for any dyno results for the bypass and found this.. I'm not really for or against at this point but I found it interested none the less. If the hp increase is in fact true, I find it strange that he records that the throttle temperature is 80F on both dyno runs.
I'm new here and stumbled across this thread and did a quick search for any dyno results for the bypass and found this.. I'm not really for or against at this point but I found it interested none the less. If the hp increase is in fact true, I find it strange that he records that the throttle temperature is 80F on both dyno runs.
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,732
Likes: 9
From: So. Jersey (San Diego native)
http://www.ws6.com/mod-8.htm
I'm new here and stumbled across this thread and did a quick search for any dyno results for the bypass and found this.. I'm not really for or against at this point but I found it interested none the less. If the hp increase is in fact true, I find it strange that he records that the throttle temperature is 80F on both dyno runs.
I'm new here and stumbled across this thread and did a quick search for any dyno results for the bypass and found this.. I'm not really for or against at this point but I found it interested none the less. If the hp increase is in fact true, I find it strange that he records that the throttle temperature is 80F on both dyno runs.
"Here, the dyno shows a 6.3 horsepower and 7.1 ft/lbs torque difference between having coolant run through the throttle body and bypassing it, with an average gain of 5.6 horsepower and 6.8 ft/lbs torque. I made the first test after driving the car for approximately 15 minutes. I monitored Coolant Temp and Intake Air Temp while making the run. At the beginning of the baseline run, the coolant was at 178F, intake air was at 80F, and the throttle body itself had a surface temperature of 102F. After bypassing, I again brought the car to temperature and repeated the test. This time, the coolant was at 180F, intake air was 80F and the throttle body was at 82F. To make sure the runs were accurate, I set the cruise on the dyno to 70mph in 6th and let the car run for about 6 minutes. After this time, the throttle body had reached 100F. I let the car cool to 185F coolant temp, and 88F intake air temp. Running the car again with these elevated heat readings yielded another .2 horsepower and -.2 ft/lbs torque compared to before heat soaking the engine. Check out the Dynojet Race Routine between the stock vehicle, the stock throttle body coolant routing and bypassing the throttle body coolant."
The point of this TB bypass is to keep it from getting hot right? What is the point in it running coolant up there anyway? To keep it from freezing up? I thought about doing this when I first got my RA but I was unsure about it. I live in KY and in the summer I could get well above 100* but in the winter it could stay below 0 for days so I figured it would be better to just leave it alone. Am I wrong it thinking this? Would it be fine if I went ahead and bypassed it?
The bypass does as you think , and it supposedly will freeze if the coolant isn't there to heat up the tb. I wouldn't do it being its winter, but come spring go for it. It and can be done and reversed in minutes, either way.
I kept seeing someone say there is no benefit..maybe LSD? Someone don't remember. I live in NY 90 miles from the coast. Idk if there would be a benefit. But it doesn't hurt to dissassemble and reassemble. Easy squeezy, just curious to the effect it will have.
This is on a different motor etc. go checkout club4g.org , they were the pioneers with the tb/coolant bypass. There are tons of threads there with more accurate and related information. I think some it is here too but there for sure . Search it up.
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,732
Likes: 9
From: So. Jersey (San Diego native)
Hmmm...Example: TB becomes 200° F...intake air = 80°, air passing into intake manifold = 120° (200 - 80). Cool down TB, ie; spacers, TBB and/or cool down intake air, ie; CAI, shield, DIY plumbing (my creation), etc., = cooler air.
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