Hi,

is there anyone in Canada that is running the projector headlamps with he h7 HID setup on a 06 Lancer Ralliart?

I was wondering how you stopped the flickering.

I have tried 2 different anti-flicker capacitors and they don't work plus a couple of different ballasts (a local shop let me try many different solutions) but pretty much everything short of the relay. I was wondering if this will stop to the flickering before I buy it and go through all the setup of installing it and finding out it doesn't work.

Thanks.

 

they flicker when parked? are you sure it's not just loose?

 

yes I'm sure because when I turn on the lights they are fine. Only when the DRL's are on.

Is there a fuse for the DRL on this car? Do you use the relay harness?

 

canadian DRL's use PWM...

 

PWM ??

can you please explain?

Thanks.

 

what i did on my previous car, is disconnected the DRL. Who needs lights during the day? I dont get it. I mean, when its rainy, or foggy out during the day, ill turn them on myself. But 90% of the time during a regular clear sky day, the only thing the DRL's do is burn out your bulbs quicker.

But thats just me. Hope you get it fixed if you decide to keep.

 

I would love to disconnect the DRL but can't find how to?

Do you remember how you did this?

Thanks.

 

When i originally imported my evo to canada, it needed DRL's to be installed. So when i went to a shop to get them installed to pass safety, he basically showed me the small square type relay he will connect. Well, all i did was remove that "relay" after, and that was all.

 

Thanks, but I think its a little different when its factory installed.

 

i dont think this issue was ever actually solved... but im not sure? search and maybe something will pop up as i know alot of people have gone through the DRL issue before with HIDs.

 

pulse width modulation, by means of field effect transistor...it's built into the circuitry of a canadian front ECU (under hood ECU)

 

been searching for a long time now, however I will try to solve and report back when I find a solution.

However Canadian DRL is apparently different than US DRL

Thanks for this.

 

so i put hids in my car about 4 years ago and when i did i had the passenger side on with highbeams on at the same time when the driver side was just low beam, if i pulled the highbeam switched nothing happened.

So i ended up cutting the high beam wire on the passenger side which caused me to have no lowbeams unless i pulled my high beam switch on and then i had lowbeams. There is a relay installed between the lights.

So im wondering if anyone here had this problem and if they were able to fix it and get lowbeams and highbeams maybe on another switch.

I tried to hook up a switch in the highbeam wired i cut but didnt seem to do much

 

there's a thread on this. It's old.

http://www.mitsubishi-forums.com/t18...ing-lights.htm

look at post 10.

BTW I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE IF YOU GET PULLED OVER AND GET A HUGE FINE FOR HAVING NO DRL'S

I disabled mine though using this method, except I didn't break the pin off, I opened the case and snipped it from the inside, that way if i want them back I can just re-solder it.

BTW, a capacitor should work to stop the flicker, but (no offence) it sounds like you are wiring the capacitor in incorrectly, in that you aren't using a relay. The proper way to do it is to wire in the capacitor between the low beam positive and the ground, then wire the low beam positive and ground to the relay solenoid (essentially connect both the relay and capacitor in parallel)

You need a relay because even though the capacitor will help stabilize the PWM voltage, because it is PWM, it does not have enough amperage to run the ballasts. it's more than enough to run the solenoid of the relay though. So that's why both a capacitor and relay are needed to supply enough power (power is volts x amps) to the ballasts.

In PWM with the capacitor, say the voltage is stabilized at 12V, but amperage output is only 2A, that means max output from the PWM is 24W, which is not enough to run the 35W ballast, causing flickering.

Say same scenario above, PWM with capacitor is 12V 2A, minimum to run the relay is 12V 0.25A = 3W (example values) 24W output is more than enough to run 3W draw.

Without capacitor, PWM voltage is say average 6V, not enough to run the 12V ballast or relay.

Probably more information than what you needed, but it might help someone else.

Edit: if you want the lowbeam HID's to stay on while the High beams are on (the way our wiring works is that when high beam is on, low beam is off) is that you will have to put a diode between the high beam positive and low beam positive, with the direction to allow current from high beam to go to the lowbeam.

 

You need this and it gets wired kinda like



The end result is it makes your headlamps run full time, which is fine because DRL's are a required in most (if not all...) provinces anyway.