What kind of maintainance should I be expecting?
What kind of maintainance should I be expecting?
Hey guys,
I'm hoping you can tell me what are some common maintenance items/issues that I'm likely to experience in the coming years.
Car info:
- 2004 Ralliart manual transmission
- Bought new in 04
- Garage kept for all but 2 years of its life
- Regular recommended maintenance at Mitsu dealer
- Oil changed every 3-4k
- Currently just under 70k miles
- Had timing belt replaced at just over 60k
- New shocks/springs and sway bar 2 years ago
- Treated well, not thrashed
- No problems/issues ever - only been in the shop for stuff listed in the manual
- Always lived in the south where it's hot
So as you can see, it's pretty low mileage for a 2004 and is in good condition. But it's going on 10 years old and I'm sure there are some things that commonly go wrong as it gets up there in age and miles.
So what are some things I should be watching for and expecting to replace in the next few years? And maybe an approximate price to do so? I plan to keep this car basically forever, so I want to get an idea of how much it's going to cost me to maintain.
Thanks.
I'm hoping you can tell me what are some common maintenance items/issues that I'm likely to experience in the coming years.
Car info:
- 2004 Ralliart manual transmission
- Bought new in 04
- Garage kept for all but 2 years of its life
- Regular recommended maintenance at Mitsu dealer
- Oil changed every 3-4k
- Currently just under 70k miles
- Had timing belt replaced at just over 60k
- New shocks/springs and sway bar 2 years ago
- Treated well, not thrashed
- No problems/issues ever - only been in the shop for stuff listed in the manual
- Always lived in the south where it's hot
So as you can see, it's pretty low mileage for a 2004 and is in good condition. But it's going on 10 years old and I'm sure there are some things that commonly go wrong as it gets up there in age and miles.
So what are some things I should be watching for and expecting to replace in the next few years? And maybe an approximate price to do so? I plan to keep this car basically forever, so I want to get an idea of how much it's going to cost me to maintain.
Thanks.
If the back looks lowered and you did not lower it then you need rear suspension arms.
If your fans run constantly, then a fan module.
Maybe wheel bearings.
If your pics the power steering fluid is low, so if you have not addressed that do so or plan to spend.
Usual consumables like brakes and suspension parts really, the car is more than reliable and durable.
You have a manual transmission and these can be bothersome particularly throw out and input shaft bearings.
Rumour has it that the seal to the input shaft bearing is made of putty and when it goes it takes the bearing with it.
Your car is fantastic, very clean, no rust looks like it's never seen rain never mind salt.
I hope you catch crabs from all the pu55y your car gets you !
If your fans run constantly, then a fan module.
Maybe wheel bearings.
If your pics the power steering fluid is low, so if you have not addressed that do so or plan to spend.
Usual consumables like brakes and suspension parts really, the car is more than reliable and durable.
You have a manual transmission and these can be bothersome particularly throw out and input shaft bearings.
Rumour has it that the seal to the input shaft bearing is made of putty and when it goes it takes the bearing with it.
Your car is fantastic, very clean, no rust looks like it's never seen rain never mind salt.
I hope you catch crabs from all the pu55y your car gets you !
Last edited by 2006_RA; Jun 27, 2013 at 10:20 AM.
Thanks.
The car was sitting low in the rear but it's now on new KYB shocks and Progress lowering springs.
The fan doesn't run constantly, but it is quite often, and usually continues to run for 5-10 seconds after turning the car off. It will also usually come on when turning the key to accessory mode.
I'll check on the steering fluid.
As for the bearings, is that something that should be periodically checked? Is there any indication I would notice that they are going bad, or does it usually just suddenly happen?
Thanks for the compliments on the car. It has definitely seen rain but no salt. No rust or anything nasty.
The car was sitting low in the rear but it's now on new KYB shocks and Progress lowering springs.
The fan doesn't run constantly, but it is quite often, and usually continues to run for 5-10 seconds after turning the car off. It will also usually come on when turning the key to accessory mode.
I'll check on the steering fluid.
As for the bearings, is that something that should be periodically checked? Is there any indication I would notice that they are going bad, or does it usually just suddenly happen?
Thanks for the compliments on the car. It has definitely seen rain but no salt. No rust or anything nasty.
Alright. Is there any reason to spend $90 for the part at the dealer vs a $40 version on ebay? Like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mitsubishi-1...-/360560718407
They any more/less reliable than the OEM?
They any more/less reliable than the OEM?
Last edited by strakele; Jun 27, 2013 at 02:45 PM.
If the back looks lowered and you did not lower it then you need rear suspension arms.
If your fans run constantly, then a fan module.
Maybe wheel bearings.
If your pics the power steering fluid is low, so if you have not addressed that do so or plan to spend.
Usual consumables like brakes and suspension parts really, the car is more than reliable and durable.
You have a manual transmission and these can be bothersome particularly throw out and input shaft bearings.
Rumour has it that the seal to the input shaft bearing is made of putty and when it goes it takes the bearing with it.
Your car is fantastic, very clean, no rust looks like it's never seen rain never mind salt.
I hope you catch crabs from all the pu55y your car gets you !
If your fans run constantly, then a fan module.
Maybe wheel bearings.
If your pics the power steering fluid is low, so if you have not addressed that do so or plan to spend.
Usual consumables like brakes and suspension parts really, the car is more than reliable and durable.
You have a manual transmission and these can be bothersome particularly throw out and input shaft bearings.
Rumour has it that the seal to the input shaft bearing is made of putty and when it goes it takes the bearing with it.
Your car is fantastic, very clean, no rust looks like it's never seen rain never mind salt.
I hope you catch crabs from all the pu55y your car gets you !
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Lmao I hope you get crabs. Jesus... That's great, but yea most everything I was going to say was said. These forums are extremely helpful man. Any questions just shoot em here (after a search of course
) and everyone will be glad to help you, and possibly learn in the process. I didn't even know what a Throwout bearing, input shaft bearing and valve adjustment crap is, but now I do pretty thoroughly too. This place is the ****.
) and everyone will be glad to help you, and possibly learn in the process. I didn't even know what a Throwout bearing, input shaft bearing and valve adjustment crap is, but now I do pretty thoroughly too. This place is the ****.
1. Defiantly keep an eye out for issues with the throttle. Around that millage my APPS sensor went out. About $200 for a new one.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/04...on-sensor.html
2. Also the rear passenger side caliper seems to have a defect in it. Over time the piston will stop working and will freeze up. I know of many on this forum that have had to replace that caliper including my self.
3. The classic lancer temperature knob issue
This seems to be present in all types of lancers that had this style knob. (seems to be a fix posted recently)
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...a-guide-7.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/04...on-sensor.html
2. Also the rear passenger side caliper seems to have a defect in it. Over time the piston will stop working and will freeze up. I know of many on this forum that have had to replace that caliper including my self.
3. The classic lancer temperature knob issue
This seems to be present in all types of lancers that had this style knob. (seems to be a fix posted recently)https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...a-guide-7.html
Last edited by mikemike396; Jun 28, 2013 at 12:44 PM.
ugh, don't remind me...my ES temp knob is so hard to turn...the next owner will have to deal with that.
the RA definately gets more TLC...but it also needs more due to the abuse it endures...
the RA definately gets more TLC...but it also needs more due to the abuse it endures...
From the top of my head, I can think of a few things :
- Water Pump
- Wheel Bearings
- Serpentine belt tensioner
- Real passenger caliper
- Valve cover gasket (especially the spark plug boots)
- Front engine mount
- Ties rods
- Clutch
- Fan control module
- Purge valve solenoid
Those seem to be the most common issues I've encountered.
Rust starting coming out on my driver's side quarter panel, right above the side skirt. Seems the crap (snow/dirt/salt...) accumulates on the top of the rocker panel, right in front of the rear wheel. I'll have to fix that this year before it becomes 10 times worse. I'll probably put tons of rubberguard, then soak it in FluidFilm so it doesn't rust again.
Clutch was still good when I changed it around 100k miles, it's the throw-out bearing that "let go".
Edit : Forgot about both the slave and master cylinders for the clutch hydraulics. They seem to be made out of cardboard and papier maché.
- Water Pump
- Wheel Bearings
- Serpentine belt tensioner
- Real passenger caliper
- Valve cover gasket (especially the spark plug boots)
- Front engine mount
- Ties rods
- Clutch
- Fan control module
- Purge valve solenoid
Those seem to be the most common issues I've encountered.
Rust starting coming out on my driver's side quarter panel, right above the side skirt. Seems the crap (snow/dirt/salt...) accumulates on the top of the rocker panel, right in front of the rear wheel. I'll have to fix that this year before it becomes 10 times worse. I'll probably put tons of rubberguard, then soak it in FluidFilm so it doesn't rust again.
Clutch was still good when I changed it around 100k miles, it's the throw-out bearing that "let go".
Edit : Forgot about both the slave and master cylinders for the clutch hydraulics. They seem to be made out of cardboard and papier maché.
Last edited by xmaster19; Jun 29, 2013 at 06:59 AM.
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