04 Ralliart won't start.. HELP!!
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04 Ralliart won't start.. HELP!!
New to this forum, just purchased my 2004 ralliart two weeks ago and it's been running like a champ. Got back form a 200~ish mile drive and parked it in my driveway, went to start it the next day, it turns over, but won't start.
Continues this as I try a few things, a few hours later when I try to start again, it seems to be turning over even slower, almost "bogged" down.
Went and bought a new battery, I needed one anyway, and problem still persists.
All lights/electronics work perfect however.
I'm thinking maybe something to do with the Fuel Pump/relay. Not super mechanically inclined, and a little unfamiliar with this car since it's still new to me.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!!
Continues this as I try a few things, a few hours later when I try to start again, it seems to be turning over even slower, almost "bogged" down.
Went and bought a new battery, I needed one anyway, and problem still persists.
All lights/electronics work perfect however.
I'm thinking maybe something to do with the Fuel Pump/relay. Not super mechanically inclined, and a little unfamiliar with this car since it's still new to me.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks!!
#2
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how many miles?
before you crank it any more, take the upper timing cover off...get someone to turn it over, and make sure the timing belt is moving, if it's not, stop cranking it immediately, and never do it again, until the timing belt is replaced. and hopefully the valves are not damaged.
If the timing belt is turning, the next thing you want to do is scan it for DTC's...a failed crank angle or cam angle sensor will not allow the engine to start...you can also check for spark and compression, if everything checks out, it could be a fuel delivery issue...
before you crank it any more, take the upper timing cover off...get someone to turn it over, and make sure the timing belt is moving, if it's not, stop cranking it immediately, and never do it again, until the timing belt is replaced. and hopefully the valves are not damaged.
If the timing belt is turning, the next thing you want to do is scan it for DTC's...a failed crank angle or cam angle sensor will not allow the engine to start...you can also check for spark and compression, if everything checks out, it could be a fuel delivery issue...
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how many miles?
before you crank it any more, take the upper timing cover off...get someone to turn it over, and make sure the timing belt is moving, if it's not, stop cranking it immediately, and never do it again, until the timing belt is replaced. and hopefully the valves are not damaged.
If the timing belt is turning, the next thing you want to do is scan it for DTC's...a failed crank angle or cam angle sensor will not allow the engine to start...you can also check for spark and compression, if everything checks out, it could be a fuel delivery issue...
before you crank it any more, take the upper timing cover off...get someone to turn it over, and make sure the timing belt is moving, if it's not, stop cranking it immediately, and never do it again, until the timing belt is replaced. and hopefully the valves are not damaged.
If the timing belt is turning, the next thing you want to do is scan it for DTC's...a failed crank angle or cam angle sensor will not allow the engine to start...you can also check for spark and compression, if everything checks out, it could be a fuel delivery issue...
I'll try this tomorrow, hope I haven't hurt anything so far by cranking a little here and there.
I'll respond back after trying again.
#5
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This same thing happened on my car when the original battery died. My car was running fine and then it just died on me and would just crank. After two tows and 6 hours spent at the dealership undergoing diagnostics, the culprit turned out to be two blown fuses underneath the dash.
I would pull each fuse individually and double check to make sure none are blown. Remember there are both fuses in the engine bay and underneath the dash.
I would pull each fuse individually and double check to make sure none are blown. Remember there are both fuses in the engine bay and underneath the dash.
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This same thing happened on my car when the original battery died. My car was running fine and then it just died on me and would just crank. After two tows and 6 hours spent at the dealership undergoing diagnostics, the culprit turned out to be two blown fuses underneath the dash.
I would pull each fuse individually and double check to make sure none are blown. Remember there are both fuses in the engine bay and underneath the dash.
I would pull each fuse individually and double check to make sure none are blown. Remember there are both fuses in the engine bay and underneath the dash.
Just checked all the fuses, they look good. Just fuses, or should I check the relays too? I think there has to be a fuel pump relay, is it possible that is causing this if it went bad?
Going down to take the timing cover off now, I'll let you know what I see there.
Also, is there a fuel pressure regulator I could try to check somewhere also?
Random, and probably unrelated, but I have this red wire coming from what appears to be my firewall then comes directly upward, bends 90 degrees towards the front of the engine bay, and then ends, appears to be burnt or cut? I'm just curious as to what this is.
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Also, when I turn key to on position, I hear a clicking noise for around 3-6 seconds.
My check engine light, battery light, and oil light all come on when the key is in the on position, and then the check engine light goes off after about 20 seconds.
My check engine light, battery light, and oil light all come on when the key is in the on position, and then the check engine light goes off after about 20 seconds.
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#8
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for the red wire, I have no idea what that could be...
there are two fuel pump relays, both behind the dash...
I'm pretty there's no stand-alone FPR.
The clicking noise when you turn the key is most likely the throttle control motor/actuator...that's normal...
check that timing belt.
there are two fuel pump relays, both behind the dash...
I'm pretty there's no stand-alone FPR.
The clicking noise when you turn the key is most likely the throttle control motor/actuator...that's normal...
check that timing belt.
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for the red wire, I have no idea what that could be...
there are two fuel pump relays, both behind the dash...
I'm pretty there's no stand-alone FPR.
The clicking noise when you turn the key is most likely the throttle control motor/actuator...that's normal...
check that timing belt.
there are two fuel pump relays, both behind the dash...
I'm pretty there's no stand-alone FPR.
The clicking noise when you turn the key is most likely the throttle control motor/actuator...that's normal...
check that timing belt.
However, when I took off the oil fill cap and looked in the valve cover there was nothing moving when being cranked. I'm assuming this means the timing belt is shot?
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In school so I've been so swamped I haven't even had a chance to check until this weekend. Thanks for all the help guys! I'll take a look at that timing belt though, haven't been cranking it much, so let's hope.
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