Installing RD Design's Xtreme Lower Tie Bar
I just installed mine today. I made the tie bar myself....but I oversaw one important part. the surface which the cam washers are located are not exactly 90deg. to the chassis. They are a little more or less, wich ever you want. But anyways, I made my tie bar perfectly straight. I had a hard time getting everything to line up and I eneded up pushing the bolt back and getting the rear cams that are stuck on the bolt to pop out. I had to shove blocks under my tires and take a hammer to get them back in. I basically had to eyeball my aligment and get the cams to the closest as I could. In the end it all went together fine and everything is tight and inline. Upon the test drive the car drove straight and when cornering it does what ever I want. give gas for understeer and let off for oversteer...on command. The only thing is that I will have to put the stock swaybar back on for winter cause I know I'll end up spinning in circles all day
I heard that you should only put on the tie bar or upgarde the sway bar as if you do both it can really tighten up the car and cause major oversteer? Bang for the buck which would be better tie bar or sway bar (I was looking at RRM) kkeo in mind I have an 04 Sportback RA so I have major swayage...hehehe
don't know about whether both would make your car oversteer in a RA model. you guys have larger front sway bars and a heavier front end. you can be the guinea pig! hehehe
really tho, the rear sway bar should take out most of the rear roll than the tie bar. also upgrade to urethane mount bushings and end-links in the front. the sway bar tightens the difference of height between the wheels in a turn as a lower tie bar or rear strut bar stiffens the chassis. i'd take the lower tie bar and rear sway bar first. the lower suspension assembly looks like it's weak stamped metal and could take a bit more reinforcement. get the rear sway bar hands down.
really tho, the rear sway bar should take out most of the rear roll than the tie bar. also upgrade to urethane mount bushings and end-links in the front. the sway bar tightens the difference of height between the wheels in a turn as a lower tie bar or rear strut bar stiffens the chassis. i'd take the lower tie bar and rear sway bar first. the lower suspension assembly looks like it's weak stamped metal and could take a bit more reinforcement. get the rear sway bar hands down.
I have both rear sway bar and lower tie bar, THe combination of both is a must if you truly want a predicatble neutral car. with this combination you tell the car when to over steer by letting off the gas in a corner. The rear slowly starts to come arround and when you want it to stop you get back on the gas. This has been my experience witht the stock goodyears on the street and on autocross. I would not trade this combo for anything else, this is the way to go for a neutral car.
hmmmm.. this should really stiffen up the rear of my wagon, That's the only draw back to the Sportback is the roll from the rear, I noticed this when I took a corner and noted the corner got abruptky sharp and the rear almost let out.... the rear sway bar is pretty flimsy, RRM has a 3/4" rear sawy bar and new perches to handle the sway, adding the tie bar should really tighten things up.
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