blk-majik

iTrader: (6)

Ok, so after a long wait, I finally got this project started. The idea of this is to reduce wheel hop and provide a better launch. It should REALLY help with very high powered engines, but sure wont help for any of us. RRM has a how-to with some good background info available here:
https://www.evolutionm.net/features/...e/rrmcorner/14

I am posting this HOWTO because several people (including myself) still had questions about this mod.

So here is what you need to start:
14mm socket
14mm low-profile wrench
long socket extender (18" or more)
2 jackstands
jack
Urethane-based sealant (IE: 3m Windo-Weld. its part no 51135-08609)
cauke gun (if using tube-based urethane)

the first problem people usually have is finding the windo-weld. I got my at Discount Auto Parts. May want to search on google if you cant find it. My tube cost me $11.



So to start, jack the front of the car up and put it on the stands. do all the usually safety stuff (e-brake and wedges for newbs). pop the hood (duh).

Lets start /w the tech docs. Here is how the motor mounts to the center member.
Front:


Back:


Part 3 is the Front mount. For you advanced crazies, Part 7 is the rear mount. Note that that pic has details on the 2.4L and 2.0L engines. just worry about the 2.4L one if ur a ralliart guy. I wont get into detail about this just yet. The cross member is Part 4. It runs from the front to back in the center of the engine bay, just under the motor and attaches to the frame. By front, I mean front of car (ie: front bumper) not front of the bay (ie: cab firewall).

So here is what we should see:



And a closeup of the mount:


The muont has a bolt going through the center with a nut on the end. Part 1 is the bolt in the diagram. the nut isnt shown, but its there. Make sure you have along enough socket wrench or breaker to bust out 45ft-lbs, as you will need to do it.....from under the car. Get your 14mm and crawl under the car. break away. Note that you will have to use the 14mm wrench to hold the nut on the other side in place while you losen the bolt. take it all the way out. it should slide right out with little effort once its lose. make sure u dont misplace the nut. put them somewhere safe.

[EDIT] To make the next few steps MUCH easier, just remove the centermember (Part 4). Just take the 51 ft-lb screws out of the front and back of it, then work on taking the mount off. Heck, you dont even HAVE to take the mount off! Just fill it up while still attached to the centermember!
[/EDIT]

So now we want to get out from under the car and look down the engine bay from above. The rubber boot (part 2) over the mount will slide around a bit. Peal it back towards the drivers seat and you will see the first bolt holding the mount down to the centermember in front (as in front bumper) of the mount. its also a 14mm. there isnt much room down there to move a wrench (especially if you have a CAI and the header heat shield on). I used the extender on my socket to give me more room (the wrench was above the engine bay =) I suggest doing this too. Take it all the way out and put it somewhere safe.

Now if u look between the mount and the engine, you will see the 2nd screw holding the mount to the centermember. Its a bit of a tight fit. Take the 14mm low-profile wrench and crawl under the car again. You will have to losen it about 1/4 turn at a time, because the wrench will be between the 2 walls of the mount frame. A socket is too big to fit (at least mine were). After this is out, put it somewhere safe and the mount sould come right out! if its stuck, put a block of wood on on a jack and push the engine up a bit and see if that helps. i didnt have to do this, but Rob brought it up in his article and its good advice =)

Here is what we see when its out:


So take the mount inside, clean it up abit (i just soap and watered it). Dry it up really well and get ur windo-weld.

and here is the mount when its all cleaned up (notice yoshi, my 6month old tegu posing in the back):



So now we just fill er' up! slap that goop in there. Read the RRM how-to for some tips on timing. I just loaded it up and put it in the oven at 170degrees for the first 3 hours. then I let it sit over night.



After its had enough time to set (should let it go 24 hours), install the obvious way. 2 bolts first, boot, center bold/nut. One thing to keep in mind: The boot goes INSIDE the two arms of the portion that connects directly to the motor. When you put the mount inplace for the 2 frame bolts to be reinsterted. So dont forget to put the rubber boot in first! it goes flush up around the mount. Put the center bolt and nut on, but dont tighte. put the front bolt in the frame, and tighten most of the way. get under the car, put the rear frame bolt in and tighten as much as you (~34 ft-lb if you have a torque wrench). using the hand wrench and the socket, righten the center bolt and nut to ~39 ft-lb. if you dont have a torque wrench here, just get the longest wrench u have and get it TIGHT! get on top the car, use the extender and tighten the front bolt to ~34 ft-lb.

DONE! I just finished re-installing it and i'll get a review a bit later. I wana drive like a sissy on my way to work, as they have only been curing for like 12 hours. (I know, im bad. but i baked them for several hours and they are hard and solid).

Enjoy!

otter

iTrader: (14)

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