Stig013

Not trying to start a s*** storm, but, I dont buy that. The stock ECU would have to be able to compensate for things like air temp, fuel octane, air density, altitude etc..... just to hand day to day and changing seasons. Again I am new to this car, only Had it for 2 weeks, but I think it would net a little more. I see that the RA does run rich which is actually a good thing, it gives us room to add more air and not go lean. Lets just say that you must tune, for the sake of argument. Couldn't you just make mechanical changes that would give same results as what the ECU can do. i.e. manual fuel pressure changes, manual boost changes, manual timing changes etc.......?
I am not saying a tune isn't a great thing. I get that it is and why. But again I am just curious about modding and trying to go back to stock to save the warranty. There has to be someone who has done the leg work to go the none tune route. Please share your experiences....
I get the tune. My brother in law has an Audi RS6. Crazzzzzy quick. He only has a light tune on it and it is now a monster. 550+HP and 565 tq. I pins you every time. So I do get the benefits of a tune and have seen what it does first hand. I am not fighting you guys. I just like my warranty. lol

SharkyPR

iTrader: (1)

That is the experience dude.

In these cars a tuner hand is needed in order to benefit from aftermarket stuff. If dont do it you will surely end up with a crappy runnng RA or a broken one.

Things that you need to know are that if you save the stock ECU ROM you can back to stock anytime. A boost pill is a very easy thing to reverse well is more than that is stupid to ask how to reverse a boost pill mod.

So far the most intelligent and productive mod that ypu can do to your car is a GST flash or a custom one and a boost pill there is nothing out there that will give you more hp per dollar than those things. Well except nitrous.

Is your decision you want to learn the hard way or pay attention to what is proven?

Stig013

Its not that I am not paying attention. Like I said before I get that the tune is a really easy reliable way to get more out of the car and I understand why, what is going on when you tune your ECU. But until someone who has actually been there tells me I wont void my warranty, I am thinking about another route. That is why I am posting this. I am hoping that someone has gone this route with some success. I have modded every car I own with great success. Everyone who drives in any of my cars invariably says that they are quick and fun to drive. I know that this is possible to do. I am not even saying I am not going the tune route but there doesn't seem to be anyone who has gone the none tune route, WITH, success. I am hoping that I will find some good info here about it.
I know the tune is great, but, "there is more then one way to skin a cat" blaa blaa blaa.

I am just trying to start something new here I don't think has really been discussed. This is not a thread about which is better, tune or no tune. This is a thread to talk about mods that improve the car without messing with the ECU. Even if it only nets 10 HP I would still like to know. My guess is that there is 30 HP to be had without too much fuss.

[Box here] Me over here. lol

Stig013

I found this in a link in another thread. Its from Import Tuner as I recall.



And i quote.


Conclusion
What began with a baseline dyno run of 197.0 hp and 214.5 lb-ft of torque was quickly revamped with our final run of 227.2 hp and 223.7 lb-ft of torque. We gained a total of 30.2 hp and 9.2 lb-ft of torque using three bolt-on products that cost less than $700 in total-a budget-conscious build that any tuner can appreciate.


CONCLUSION HP HP+ TQ TQ+
BASELINE 197.0 214.5
K&N FLAT PANEL FILTER 205.1 8.1 219.7 5.2
DC SPORTS EXHAUST 217.0 11.9 222.0 2.3
DC SPORTS TEST PIPE 227.2 10.2 223.7 1.7
FINAL 227.2 30.2 223.7 9.2



BANKROLL
K&N PANEL FILTER $69.00
DC SPORTS SCS EXHAUST $468.00
DC SPORTS TEST PIPE $136.08
TOTAL $673.08


See no tune. And please dont say it prob runs like crap. I am sure that the guys at Import Tuner would have made note of that fact.

Any more info or experiences like this would be great. THX

SharkyPR

iTrader: (1)

But why go to a route that I dont remember someone with a successful result in a RA?

The factory tune will not help you anyway.

And as I said you can reverse a reflash back to stock in a few seconds.

Either way if warranty is something that scares the ***** out of you why mod it in the first place?

Stig013

If I was happy with things as they are handed to me I would have bought a Civic SI. Thats why. LOL I am not try to **** anyone of. Just want to start something new is all.

RideSober

iTrader: (3)

The Stage 1 93 octane tune from a Cobb Accessport can be easily installed in about 15 minutes while saving your original Mitsubishi tune for later reinstallation if and when you desire.

The Cobb AP tune may not give you quite the same level of performance a good tuner can give you for your specific car, but it can also be totally removed in about 10 minutes, and then your original Mitsubishi flash is installed back in your ECU.

According to Cobb, once the AP is removed there are no traces and there is no way its previous install may be detected.

I can tell you from experience, the Cobb AP 93 octane tune will flat wake up your lazy RA!

Click the link to the Stage 1 93 octane tune to see the Cobb Dyno results, they show 240 AWHP and 280 AWTQ which are fairly significant increases from their stock tune baselines of 208 AWHP and 238AWTQ.

http://surgeline.cobbtuning.com/dyno...rgb3=000153000


Once you get the bug for more HP, your local tuner can make a custom pro tune and load the MAP in your AP and you can then use it just like any of the other MAPs that come standard on the Cobb AP. And of course, you can then also remove it for those times when you need to drop your car off for warranty work.

There may be other "stealthy" options out there, but none that I know of that provide this level performance.

Good luck with your decision.

SharkyPR

iTrader: (1)

I spent only $250 for a custom tune and I end up with 40whp more than stock and gained 5mpg over my stock MPG records driving more spirited meaning that it can be even higher.

Later I added a drop in filter, intercooler pipes, EVO X blow off, actuator adjustment and another tune to take care of the xtra PSI and made abother 30whp.

Right now I have a RA that sounds the same a stock one with 70whp over the factory ratings, very easy to reverse to stock and I spent less than $500.

Stig013

WOW. I get it. TUNE TUNE TUNE. lol
I am trying to get info and give my experiences with modding and NO tune. I understand that a simple tune is best bang for buck, but, I am trying to go a different route. Now if someone from one of the performance shops comes on here and says its not possible without a tune I will relent. But until then I think this could be a very important thread.
BTW No one has given concrete evidence that a tune can not be seen by Mitsu after the stock goes back on. Just say'n....
THX though.

omegis

iTrader: (2)

Hey, hey, hey....

I think you should totally tune your car. Just sayin'

zx-319

iTrader: (2)

The problem I see with this is you increase spool thus, you'll probably achieve extra boost over stock. More boost without adjusting ignition timing and AFR might lead to knock.

The thing is, without any form of reflash, you have no idea what's going on and what the impact of what you did is. To be able to monitor knock you need to activate Mode23 which requires a reflash. Doing a reflash for Mode23 is the same as applying a tune (from a Manufacturer point of view).

I don't know how long you plan on keeping you RA and how you drive your cars. But unless you plan to change your car next year and drive it like my grand father used to drive his super huge V8 living rooms, I wouldn't recommend starting to mod a car like the RA without actually validating the impact your mod have on the engine. It's just acting in a responsible way.

Stig013

Thats just not true. You can monitor what is going on with your car and any changes you made with gauges. Thats what they are for. EGT, AFR, BOOST, ect..... Come on, are you telling me that you can't make changes to a car and improve its performance without a tune? Really? I guess i should throw my other cars into the rubbish pile. None of them have a tune either.

BTW what the hell is a "super huge V8 living rooms"?

Westbound&down

im sorry you dont believe it, but i know for a fact what can and cant be done to the car on the stock tune, what will and wont produce power, and how to do so.

The PCM will NOT alter fuel trims, boost levels, and so on to accomidate modifications you make. Im not sure where you get this silly uneducated info from, but you need to do some research before you go about telling those who know the platform they are wrong.

This isnt an NA car, and it isnt the easiest car to modify. Minimal gains can be made by removing restrictions and dencer air. Until you make a bigger FIRE you wont get much more HEAT.

More boost, more timing, more fuel + air in a proper mixture = power. Not joe shom slapping whatever he wants on and resetting the battery.

Westbound&down

hes telling you that on this particular car, the MAF is very sensitive to change. Making post MAF changes (cat back intercooler) are usually easily done and make mild amounts of power. Anything that changes a sensory in the car, (intake, test pipe, intercooler piping) changes the fuel trims. The stock tune is rather rich, but it takes VERY LITTLE to alter that.

Case and point a UR intake (JUST THE INTAKE) putting our car into mid 13's afr at wot. Or ams's intake, which is the BEST on the market, requiring their stage 2 tune to WORK PROPERLY.

Maybe you should throw all your other cars in the trash, cause clearly you have little to no actual knowledge about the inner workings of a modern vehicle.

I think its foolish that your looking to make power, by being cheap, and fearful. Stop being a baby, get a turbo back, intercooler high flow filter and stage 2 on the cobb AP and call it a day. That way if your lil warranty ocd thing comes up, you can remove it. 50 ignition cycles isnt hard to do and hide.

The simple fact is, your asking for facts, then calling us liars. In my opinion, id much rather you leave the car stock. For everyones sake.

Westbound&down

this is exactly what were telling you. They have a high flow filter, a CATBACK and test pipe. The test pipe is iffy on longevity.

The major increase they made was in the Test pipe itself. I told you 12 whp for a catback and filter which is further proven by this, as test pipes alone have shown to make 10-12 whp themselves. You do the math.

with a tune, tht car could make 240 whp and 265 ft lbs.