What jRox was saying is to keep the OEM projector housings, but ditch the OEM ballasts in favor of an aftermarket kit.

It you get a standard 9006 HID kid and use jRox's harness, then go on eBay and buy another set of bulbs, but instead of ordering 9006, you need to order "D2S" size bulbs which is the same size as the OEM projector. Then use the jRox's harness on the 9006 HID ballast kit with the D2S bulbs in the OEM housings.



On another note, I was working with Komilp briefly and I'm still trying to figure out why I cannot duplicate what I did once before.

There was a customer in the past where I was able to adapt the car's ETACS computer to recognize an upgrade to OEM HID and switch all function for DRL and otherwise as though the car were factory equipped with projectors/HID. I haven't given up, but I have very little time to actually tinker so the process is just dragging on at a snail's pace with no end in sight.

I'm seriously beginning to wonder if it my memory is so bad as to allow me to forget that the car that I successfully did this in was an Outlander and I'm just wasting my time on the Lancer platform, but I refuse to believe it and so I dredge on...

Nah, don't dog him on this one, it's a legit question. I've actually worked with his car briefly with the Mitsu scan tool trying to reprogram the ETACS and it wouldn't take for some reason so any other input would be helpful as I'm still trying to remember how I got it to work the last time I did it.

ya i threw that up a while back, was wondering if anybody had found a solution, i didnt for sure................but then i got a idea, never got around to trying it whatsoever

My idea: So the e-brake is up, lights are not on, e-brake down lights come on, unless your switch is on already you will flicker. So fool the car to assume the e-brake is up all the time, then when YOU turn the stalk switch, the lights come on, on your command. No flicker, and no lights on all the time. Now only problem is.....i have not pulled apart my console to find out how it is relaying to the headlights to tell it to have power, nor have i found out if the BRAKE ON light will stay upon the dash. If someone is able to beat me to this then please give it a try. If not, ill give it a go, tho im ever busy with work, and its triple digit hot here, and i dont want to try this in the heat.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/09...cker-help.html

see i have dug apart 3 forums looking for an answer, i saw a guy who tried to buy all the extra fuse box, rewire, and go thru all that jazz. Saw a guy attempt to reprogram, only thing nobody has seemed to want to try was my idea. It seems honestly like an only option, also sounds kind of straight forward and simple.

DRL bypass, like the jRox version, doesn't work?

I'm 99% sure that would leave the "BRAKE" light on in your cluster at all times. Not a big deal, really, but not ideal either.

Read my last post in AntiBlitz' thread here: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/09...cker-help.html

Screw it, I'm merging the threads...

Oh, I see what you did there

ya well i thought that, but if i can find out where the connection throws the signal to, then i can maybe switch a few wires around, and bam no more DRL Projectors, saving the longevity of your Bulbs. I'll see what i can do, but unless someone else beats me to it, i may be a while like i said before. That and..........i have no idea what im doing! TRIAL AND ERROR BABY YEAAAH!!!

I haven't lost faith in you man ... I know you'll come through

Aye, there seems to be a lot of confusion here. 03chi-town0Z is somewhat correct, but not completely. I will try and be as clear cut as possible:

• OEM HID Ballast & Bulbs + OEM HID Projectors = HID flicker due to DRL's
• OEM HID Ballast & Bulbs NOT compatible with the DRL Bypass
• DRL Bypass compatible with Aftermarket Plug & Play HID Kits

Therefore, to safely operate your OEM HID Projectors as normal, you will need:

1. Aftermarket Plug & Play D2S HID Kit
2. D2S Adapters (included in most kits)
3. DRL Bypass

I've personally been running this setup for over 3 years now with no issues.

I didn't realize the a/m D2S kit would connect to the connectors on your harness. I figured they were specific to the 9006 bulb design. That makes it easier then, for sure.

Aftermarket HID Ballasts universally have 9006 sockets, so yes def makes it more convenient.

So, then a kit like below should work fine right?

http://www.omnixautosports.com/d2s-h...2s-hid-kit.htm

Did you tuck away the ballast and the wires like in the OEM HID projectors? Or did you leave the ballast on top. I guess if you leave the wiring outside, then you can't close the plastic lid on the projectors.

Also, if you can put up some pics, that would be awesome ...

So, what kind of wattage do the d2s bulbs need? There are d2s kits out there with 35 and 55 watts output. Not sure which one to buy?

Also, are projectors classified as Bi-Xenon or single beam?

You would want to get a 35w single beam kit