My wifes 2010 sportback RA sometimes refuses to start first key turn. The car will crank, just not fire up. Turn the key off then back on, sometimes twice and it will go. She said is has happend a few times in the last few months but forgets to tell me.

I've searched through here and found a similar issue but it seemed to be connected to cold weather starts and build dates Nov 2009 and earlier.

My wifes car was built in Dec 09 so just outside the TSB time frame. I'm going to bring it in under warranty, just wondering if anyone else has had a similar issue.

 

swap the relay yourself and see if it improves...

 

I had a similar issue, but after swapping to the blue relay it hasn't happened since. Then again, I swapped relays at the beginning of the summer, so the real test will be in the coming months.

 

Ahh yes, here we go with this never dying question again. Turn the key as far as it will go WITHOUT cranking, then let it sit in this position for about 5 seconds to build fuel pressure, then lastly crank the starter and it should start right up every time.

 

Ahh, you see there in lies the problem. It's doesn't matter how long you leave the key in the on position it. When it happens you still have to cycle the key off and on. The first time my wife mention the problem I told her it was because she turns the key straight on and should wait.

Then it happened to me the other day when we were leaving the house. I got in turned it to on, buckled up, adjusted the mirrors, turned the key to contact the starter circuit, and nothing but sputter. Thats when she told me it has happened a few more times.

I checked the relays last night when she got home from work and the car has 3 green relays. The larger 4th relay that is mention in the TSB is the proper one.

 

So this morning, I get into my car to go to work and it wouldn't start. Well, it ran for less than a second than would just crank and crank. I assumed it was the battery so I bought a new one. Well, that didn't fix it so I came on here to research since I slightly remembered reading a thread about this.

Anyways, I called San Mateo Mitsubishi, which is the closest, and they didn't have the blue relays. Then I called Capitol Mitsubishi in San Jose and they said they had 4. After driving half an hour there, they said they couldn't find them. WTF?!?!?!?!?! Then I called Livermore Mitsubishi which is about an hour from Capitol Mitsubishi and they said they had 4. I made the guy physically verify he had 4.

So basically, after 3 hours of driving in my dad's 1991 Toyota Previa, my back is now sore but at least my Ralliart now works. I switched out the 3 green relays for the blue ones. I'm not sure where the 4th Blue one goes but it is working now so I'll worry about that last one later.

 

Even brought the tsb into the dealer with me. They said in order to warranty it it has to show the code listed in the tsb or I have to recreate it for them.

 

Used to have this problem, there was a flash update or something from the dealer and haven't had the problem since.

 

Okay...so I am this issue now and so, anyone know what the parts number for the blue relay is suppose to be? And am I suppose to replace 3 or 4? I only see 3 greens ones in the relay box in the engine bay.

 

if you don't let the center lcd in dash do its cycle and come to the normal driving screen(temp.,fuel gauge,L/100km,etc) the car will not start. on a quiet morning you can hear an electric motor running from engine bay(fuel i'd say) and when you cycle key (if it did not start) it will log a mil on dash but once started mil goes inactive did not have car to stealership yet to have codes read no issue since the wife slows down and waits for the dash to cycle(freightliner trucks are the same)

 

I would just get the following and be done with it:
http://www.sspperformance.com/produc...relay-package/

 

Had the same problem and got that relay package from SSP. Replaced the black/blue relays I had and haven't had trouble starting since. In my case, if I shake the old fuel pump relay (the original style black one), you can hear bits of something rattling around inside. Definitely best to just replace all 5 with the new ones and (hopefully) not have to worry about it.