Fuego's Project Car!
Jan 20, 2012, 12:29 PM
#61
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Crud! The dealer won't install my swaybar. Well, then they don't need my money. I won't go to them for nothing then! I have to go to a friend to do it. I do have a question, when doing the work on the steering, is it possible for the airbag to go off? That was one of his concerns and the other one was that I might have to get it realigned.
Also, I got the Wideband bung installed in my DP and will be installing the wideband this weekend!
It only cost me $30 for the installation and we put it at 9'oclock because it would cost more to do it at 3'oclock or 12'oclock.
Also, I got the Wideband bung installed in my DP and will be installing the wideband this weekend!
It only cost me $30 for the installation and we put it at 9'oclock because it would cost more to do it at 3'oclock or 12'oclock.
Last edited by Fuego; Jan 22, 2012 at 06:07 PM. Reason: Deleted wrong link
Jan 20, 2012, 02:09 PM
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Those instructions are for the wrong car. Find ones for the X. The thing to be really careful with is that you reattach the steering exactly the way it was prior to disconnection. That part is kind like the fulcrum for the steering; being off by 1mm equals a couple/few inches at the wheels. I think this is the info you want: http://www.hotchkis.net/mitsubishi_e..._sway_bar.html
As for the o2 sensor, so long as it's between 9 and 3 your ok (although 10 to 2 is better). The whole point is to NOT have it between 3 and 9 due to condensation build up.
As for the o2 sensor, so long as it's between 9 and 3 your ok (although 10 to 2 is better). The whole point is to NOT have it between 3 and 9 due to condensation build up.
Last edited by sstevojr; Jan 20, 2012 at 02:11 PM.
Jan 20, 2012, 02:52 PM
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Those instructions are for the wrong car. Find ones for the X. The thing to be really careful with is that you reattach the steering exactly the way it was prior to disconnection. That part is kind like the fulcrum for the steering; being off by 1mm equals a couple/few inches at the wheels. I think this is the info you want: http://www.hotchkis.net/mitsubishi_e..._sway_bar.html
As for the o2 sensor, so long as it's between 9 and 3 your ok (although 10 to 2 is better). The whole point is to NOT have it between 3 and 9 due to condensation build up.
As for the o2 sensor, so long as it's between 9 and 3 your ok (although 10 to 2 is better). The whole point is to NOT have it between 3 and 9 due to condensation build up.
. I think He put it at 9-10 because of that reason. Will verify and take a picture when I install the Wideband. I think he also angled it a little i believe. l The guy really knew what he was doing and was cool about everything, they were recommended by my friend who has a shop in the area. Just would have cost a lot more to have it installed at 3 .Hopefully by this weekend I start logging
Jan 20, 2012, 06:17 PM
#64
Just a heads-up, make sure you route those wires VERY carefully across the exhaust if you've got the bung @ 9-10 o clock position. There have been a few "WTF just happened?" moments posted on here when somebody burned through o2 sensor wires. More commonly for the OEM sensors causing the dash to go "christmas tree", but still, you don't want to end up having to buy another sensor due to a careless oversight.
Jan 22, 2012, 05:57 PM
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Just a heads-up, make sure you route those wires VERY carefully across the exhaust if you've got the bung @ 9-10 o clock position. There have been a few "WTF just happened?" moments posted on here when somebody burned through o2 sensor wires. More commonly for the OEM sensors causing the dash to go "christmas tree", but still, you don't want to end up having to buy another sensor due to a careless oversight.
I was able to wire it with where the other o2 sensor sits so the cables should not burn
Hopefully this week I will have time to try and log 
)
Jan 22, 2012, 06:07 PM
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Those instructions are for the wrong car. Find ones for the X. The thing to be really careful with is that you reattach the steering exactly the way it was prior to disconnection. That part is kind like the fulcrum for the steering; being off by 1mm equals a couple/few inches at the wheels. I think this is the info you want: http://www.hotchkis.net/mitsubishi_e..._sway_bar.html
As for the o2 sensor, so long as it's between 9 and 3 your ok (although 10 to 2 is better). The whole point is to NOT have it between 3 and 9 due to condensation build up.
As for the o2 sensor, so long as it's between 9 and 3 your ok (although 10 to 2 is better). The whole point is to NOT have it between 3 and 9 due to condensation build up.
The link to down load the instructions does not work
I emailed them about the link and I will search to see if I can find another guide
Jan 22, 2012, 06:42 PM
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Jan 22, 2012, 07:37 PM
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Awesome!!! That linked worked for me
So I been reading and now I got my EvoScan up and running. I'm going to try to log RPM, Load(Fuel), Boost, IPW, IDC, Knock Sum, Timing Advance, TSP, IAT, MAT, ECT, WGDC, Active WGDC Correction and LC-1 AFR.
HAHAHAHA Opps My laptop does not have a serial port. lol... Got to get a serial to USB then.
Last edited by Fuego; Jan 22, 2012 at 08:13 PM.
Jan 25, 2012, 12:23 AM
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So I uploaded the new 2.7 Maps and love them. Also, should be ordering the serial to USB so I can do some logging. I should be getting the body kit hopefully next month to order.
Had a member email me asking me information on the new rom and I gave them the following:
The new Maps came in for tuning the car 2.7 and its amazing. Putting the new map on your car is really easy.
Check out
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/09...f-dummies.html read part 1 and 2.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/09...t-basemap.html this is where you get the 2.7
The other day my computer froze during the process of flashing the ECU. I restarted my computer and redid the process and had no issues. It's really hard to damage the ECU by following the steps. Also, any questions just mail me here.
Once u install the program you connect the openport to the laptop. Then open ecuflash program. Connect it to the car. Put the car on the on position and then hit the read ECU and download your ROM to your computer and email it to yourself so you have it. If you can do that, then everything is working properly! Don't worry about your car going hay wire. It's just going through it's process. So now that u got it to read your ECU and download it, you should have no issue with it loading a new ROM. I always like to read ECU before I flash it. Once all that is done then you open your ROM for your car (2009 USDM/CADM and the octane you use and mods). I have the boost pill so I use 2009 USDM/CADM - 91 oct - BoostPill - V2.7 and then Write to ECU. You will see your car go hay wire again and then it will all be done. You will have the engine light on when it's all done After any EcuFlash operations, the EcuFlash can clear it... just run this procedure: Select "ECU" -> "Clear DTCs". Then press "OK" on EcuFlash and BAM you should be all done when it's finished with the process. I highly recommend getting a OBD Extender 5' because your left leg will hit the Openport and you will prefer $20-30 instead of $180 or open it up and fix the mini USB connector which is what I had to do
Had a member email me asking me information on the new rom and I gave them the following:
The new Maps came in for tuning the car 2.7 and its amazing. Putting the new map on your car is really easy.
Check out
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/09...f-dummies.html read part 1 and 2.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/09...t-basemap.html this is where you get the 2.7
The other day my computer froze during the process of flashing the ECU. I restarted my computer and redid the process and had no issues. It's really hard to damage the ECU by following the steps. Also, any questions just mail me here.
Once u install the program you connect the openport to the laptop. Then open ecuflash program. Connect it to the car. Put the car on the on position and then hit the read ECU and download your ROM to your computer and email it to yourself so you have it. If you can do that, then everything is working properly! Don't worry about your car going hay wire. It's just going through it's process. So now that u got it to read your ECU and download it, you should have no issue with it loading a new ROM. I always like to read ECU before I flash it. Once all that is done then you open your ROM for your car (2009 USDM/CADM and the octane you use and mods). I have the boost pill so I use 2009 USDM/CADM - 91 oct - BoostPill - V2.7 and then Write to ECU. You will see your car go hay wire again and then it will all be done. You will have the engine light on when it's all done After any EcuFlash operations, the EcuFlash can clear it... just run this procedure: Select "ECU" -> "Clear DTCs". Then press "OK" on EcuFlash and BAM you should be all done when it's finished with the process. I highly recommend getting a OBD Extender 5' because your left leg will hit the Openport and you will prefer $20-30 instead of $180 or open it up and fix the mini USB connector which is what I had to do
Last edited by Fuego; Jan 25, 2012 at 07:27 AM.
Jan 25, 2012, 11:20 AM
#70
If you don't want to order the usb to serial and do standalone logging, You can just use a 2.5mm stereo jack and solder it onto the serial output of the LC-1. I find it easier to log without a laptop sliding around my front seat. Just an option that I find easier and cheaper.
Jan 27, 2012, 11:26 PM
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If you do decide to use serial to usb.This is currently what I use with my AEM WB. I tried the soldering to the pins but had bad luck with pins in the cable breaking..somebody stepped on it etc. So I picked up a 9-Position Female Crimp D-Sub Connector from radioshack($3) much easier and secure fit than soldering for me...
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2103806#
This is also the serial cable currently using with windows 7 ($20)
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2292430
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2103806#
This is also the serial cable currently using with windows 7 ($20)
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2292430
Last edited by csra09; Jan 27, 2012 at 11:28 PM. Reason: typo
Jan 30, 2012, 07:27 AM
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If you don't want to order the usb to serial and do standalone logging, You can just use a 2.5mm stereo jack and solder it onto the serial output of the LC-1. I find it easier to log without a laptop sliding around my front seat. Just an option that I find easier and cheaper.
If you do decide to use serial to usb.This is currently what I use with my AEM WB. I tried the soldering to the pins but had bad luck with pins in the cable breaking..somebody stepped on it etc. So I picked up a 9-Position Female Crimp D-Sub Connector from radioshack($3) much easier and secure fit than soldering for me...
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2103806#
This is also the serial cable currently using with windows 7 ($20)
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2292430
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2103806#
This is also the serial cable currently using with windows 7 ($20)
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2292430
Ok, so I get the connector from Radio Shack and then plug the 2.5mm into where? of the d-sub connector. Then I plug the 2.5 into the Laptop? Sorry I'm a little lost on the whole setup and connection process.
Jan 30, 2012, 07:34 AM
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Body Kit...
Ok, here is a new one i'm looking at
http://www.scorpionkits.com/gallery3...g2_itemId=4137
Thoughts. I think I like this more than the last one I posted. I already emailed them waiting for information on it!
Ok, here is a new one i'm looking at
http://www.scorpionkits.com/gallery3...g2_itemId=4137
Thoughts. I think I like this more than the last one I posted. I already emailed them waiting for information on it!
I think the email is the correct ones! It's the one I used on the top of the link.
Jan 30, 2012, 12:42 PM
#75
You can just plug the 2.5mm straight into your tactrix, this is me assuming you have one. Then you can standalone log everything you want. If you don't have a tactrix, then you have to go the other method, serial to usb, which would then plug into your laptop and then log with evoscan etc....Hope this clears some of it up.