And what the hell here are a few more pics and no I don't baby my car.

IMG]http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa442/Jack_Loftus/Rally%20Cross%20Dec%204%202011/6454638301_c5857753cb_z.jpg[/IMG]

 

Some progress today... took a 96x48" piece of 3003 aluminum and cuter down to size just need to put some mounting holes, oil filer access panel, and the vents for the sst and I'll be in there. Oh yeah paint too to prevent corrosion. 4.5 hours of work and $170.00 for materials

 

Looks great.

 

NICE! One day I'll get around to do something similar, I like the initiative!

 

Sorry to bring this back from the dead. What size u-nuts/u-clips did you use? I'm looking at building this as well.

 

Do you remember what size u-nuts/u-clips you used? I asked cncledout but I realized he has a rally art and I'm not sure if there any differences between Evos and RAs.

 

I wish I could tell you specifically but I walked into home depot/ lowes and found a bolt and clip combo that worked. i matched the vehicle only in the fact that they were metric 10's. The difference between ra and evo shouldn't be too much for the clips only a wider stance for the bumper.


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I'm pretty sure the standard/most common thread pitch is 8 x 1.25 (that will come with a 10mm hex head). That should be what the 5 bolts in the front of the OEM underpanel are, so you can match it up with those for consistency, if you like.

I also, personally, prefer the black-coated bolts and a SMALL dab of grease or anti-seize on everything for corrosion prevention.

 

Just an update for my skid plate for rally use. I ended up making a couple additional holes in it. One I will keep for now which provides access to the factory front tow point located in the front structure on the drivers side. The second one was to match the factory hole for jack placement, but have found having to play with the placement of the jack to hit said hole not fun. The solid aluminum across the main structure and engine brace made it a breeze to simply slide the jack under the approx. area and begin jacking as the aluminum plate was being supported by the engine cross brace above it in a front to back setup. Point is you don't need to make a hole in the plate for the jack, as it is more beneficial to have solid aluminum here to jack up the car.

I will be making a second slid plate in the near future with drag racing in mind where the aluminum plate will be a thinner gauge. Its purpose will be not so much to protect, which it will x10 versus the factory plastic pcs, but to eliminate drag and provide some decent cooling of the transmission which is always running hot especially at the track