Unless you skipped the timing, there's no reason for 45lb of compression in all the cylinders. How confident are you in the shop you took the car to? It doesn't sound like he's been going about the troubleshooting in a logical fashion.

Also, as stated above, I'd have checked my relays before calling a tow truck....
http://roadraceengineering.com/blog/?p=2930

You can check real quickly by swapping the fuel pump relay with the High Beam relay
http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17957

 

I've been using this same place for 8 years. Grossman Tuning in Louisville. They are legit.

 

No offense, but I just clicked on their website link you provided and didn't see a single picture or even a mention of any products on there. Just because they may be good at fixing Volkswagons(which is the majority of what's shown on their website), doesn't mean they know jack about Ralliarts and Evos. I'm sure the guy is probably honest and all, but I would proceed with caution and possibly start looking elsewhere for a tuning expert(and NO I don't mean the dealership).

 

^yeah... 'All are low at 45psi' sounds like a failed test to me too. Especially from what you describe in the OP....

You may have had water in a connector or relay that has since dried and it starts for now him, perhaps? [shrug] Talk to the mechanic in person...

 

What?? Just to clarify, everything was okay, car was starting/running fine and then after a car wash it wouldn't start? No other history/symptoms recently?

 

Today is the second day of testing and there is no update on the diagnosis yet. They hope tomorrow morning.

I understand that their website doesn't have mitsubishi specific labels, but in Louisville, KY, they are the "THE" place to take an imported performance car. If you have a volkswagon, you take it to the VolksDoctor here in Louisville. Besides the dealership, there isn't any other places within 50 miles.

My RA did not show any signs of problems. No sounds, no warnings, not hard to start, nothing. Depending on how expensive this repair is, I may never buy another Mitsubishi. Garage kept, 100,000 extended mile warranty, Mobile 1 synthetic every 4-5k miles, preventative maintenance done within guidelines...and it just quits one day. (frustrated)

 

Update 1-15-14 around 6pm: Mechanic got it started, said it was "very gunked up" and dirty. I asked if there was any engine damage. He said no, just very dirty. I should have asked what was dirty, but I was too excited to hear that it was running and no engine damage! (relieved) I'll ask more questions tomorrow and fill you guys in. I'm sure you all think this "dirtyness" is my fault. I honestly don't blame you, but I'm not sure how I could have contributed to it since I get my oil changed on time and I use 93 octane V-Power gas only.

 

Sounds like the engine may have flooded badly.

Did you wash the engine bay?

If not, it still could be a failed relay. Google "Evo X relay" and you'll see what I mean.

http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58941

The MFI and Injector relays will create a no-start condition.

 

plugs

 

Final Update: The carbon build-up was the cause for non-starting. It was a very bad case, and needed to be ran with de-carbon cleaner. I drive my RA like a grandma so I honestly can't tell you the last time I went over 4.5k RPM. I'm guessing if I had "gotten on it" a little more it might have cleared up the carbon build-up? Anyways, happy ending for this RA owner. I'm telling the mechanic to put a lot of preventative maintenance repairs into a new aftermarket cat-back, battery, plugs, wires, etc

 

See posts #8 & #14 then throw a can of SeaFoam into her. Not my sister.

 

As odd as it may sound, a "dead" or "dying" battery can cause these exact symptoms, in these Ralliarts. It may be because the voltage drops far too much while cranking for the battery to provide enough power to the coil packs to create enough voltage to make a spark strong enough to get the engine running.

On the surface, my car had identical problems on the exact same day that this thread showed up in the forums. The power lit up all lights and accessories, relays ticked when switched on, the starter turned the motor over with gusto, but it just wouldn't fire. In my case, I had "symptoms" leading up to the day that this happened that told me I needed a new battery soon. For example, it wouldn't hold a charge over 36hours; it would start with a jump, and I could start stop it all day just fine, but a leave it sit for a day and a half and it would be dead. Then finally last Monday morning, attempting to start the car and it just wouldn't, even with a jump. I replaced the battery with a new one and all was peachy keen again.

The OEM battery in my car lasted roughly 3.5 years from the date of purchase from the dealership.

 

Wow, I'm at almost the 4.5 year mark with my OEM battery, and sometimes I don't start the car for a full 2 weeks and it still starts, but this makes me think I'm living on borrowed time....

 

On a good battery I can go 2 full weeks. It's just that last battery was on it's death bed when it wouldn't hold a charge for more than a day and a half.

 

Looking back on this thread, my personal huntch is there was no carbon buildup but rather it was my fault for turning the car on and off too quickly. I read these two forums and base my opinion on other users having this same issue occasionally. It happened again just recently so I'm pretty sure carbon couldn't have built up that fast again.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/09...p-problem.html

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/09...-starting.html