alignment specs
#1
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alignment specs
it looks like there are a few people who have sucessfully lowered their RAs'
to what specs have you been aligning the suspension after the drop.
are the factory specs being used ? or........is there something better ?
thanks.
to what specs have you been aligning the suspension after the drop.
are the factory specs being used ? or........is there something better ?
thanks.
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i have been lowering cars for years now... i have yet to realignment a car with a drops ranging 1.5" to 2" on stock struts...
with most car it will camber a little bit... but now much with 1.5" to 2" drop now anything over 2" will be coilovers unless your buying ebay lowering springs which will drop like 3" lol because there made of pot metal that is painted and thats gonna need a alignment because now you are messing with the suspension geometry beyond stock strut compensation which is right about + or - 4" to 6" of travel... for a normal sport sedan with 18" wheels
with most car it will camber a little bit... but now much with 1.5" to 2" drop now anything over 2" will be coilovers unless your buying ebay lowering springs which will drop like 3" lol because there made of pot metal that is painted and thats gonna need a alignment because now you are messing with the suspension geometry beyond stock strut compensation which is right about + or - 4" to 6" of travel... for a normal sport sedan with 18" wheels
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evil.........thanks for the info.
so basically no one has got an alignment after lowering......
....... because it would not be needed with the amount of drop they have done.
i will be lowering my car soon ( about 1.5" depending on which i buy ) and
do not want to fry the inner edges of the tires in a couple hundred miles.
so basically no one has got an alignment after lowering......
....... because it would not be needed with the amount of drop they have done.
i will be lowering my car soon ( about 1.5" depending on which i buy ) and
do not want to fry the inner edges of the tires in a couple hundred miles.
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if thats the case go get it an alignment to zero out the camber as best as possible... that will help it out a bit... because you will some neg camber regardless of the being stock or lowered...... but being lowered does add to the neg camber...
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...i'm figuring the stock camber to be about -1.
do you think lowering the RA 1.5 inch would get it to -3 ? ?
if so , i think that would begin to show inner tire edge wear.
do you think lowering the RA 1.5 inch would get it to -3 ? ?
if so , i think that would begin to show inner tire edge wear.
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#8
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I don't see how their alignment is still good after lowering the RAs since you have to remove the strut assembly. Also most new mitsubishis come with cam bolts inorder to adjust Castor/camber. Unless you align it you will never know what your castor or camber is. Too much negative camber will wear the inside of your tires. If i remember right it is almost 8 degrees postive castor and -.5 to -1 degree negative camber depending on the perferred range by manufacturer. If you have any alignment questions feel free to ask me.
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thanks SSP....where do you think the 09 RA would be at camber-wise after 1.5" drop ?
right now ( stock ) when i "read" my tires.....
.....i see NO uneven wear at outside or inside edges.
so i think my RA is at -1 ..........at most.
i was thinking someone would post up where the camber went after they lowered their RA and if they tried to get back close to zero ( or left it as is )
right now ( stock ) when i "read" my tires.....
.....i see NO uneven wear at outside or inside edges.
so i think my RA is at -1 ..........at most.
i was thinking someone would post up where the camber went after they lowered their RA and if they tried to get back close to zero ( or left it as is )
#10
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well with drop equals negative camber. 1.5" drop may put it to almost 1.5-2 degrees negative camber which is board line in tire wear. Do not go to zero on camber because when you turn your SAI and IA helps on camber roll when you turn. If you go zero will have positive camber around turns which will kill the outside of your tires. I would set it to a maximum of 1 degree negative camber which will improve cornering traction and limit amount of tire wear even at 1.5" drop.
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