Whiteline Rear Sway Bar - install
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Whiteline Rear Sway Bar - install
Well, I felt there is a need to open a new thread for this. I had no idea how much of a PITA the rear sway bar install was going to be. But, once we figured it out, the procedure became clear. I had three other friends help me with this project
but we also installed a lot of other parts.
I don't have any pictures, but this is how we installed my Whiteline Rear Sway Bar:
Undue the sway bar from the endlinks and rear subframe (brackets/bushings). There are four bolts connecting the driveshaft to the rear diff. I don't know how to explain very well where this area is, but we didn't pull the driveshaft out of the differential (so there wasn't any fluid leakage to worry about), but it's the joint in the driveshaft closest to the rear diff. Pull your e-brake on HARD, so the wheels lock up, and you have some support when you're loosening these 4 bolts on the driveshaft.
We then disconnected the rear differential from the rear subframe and had it resting on a jack so it's not dangling too far down. There are only three large bolts that hold the rear diff. to the car. One runs parallel to the rear diff. and connects through a large rubber bushing through the middle of the rear subframe, pretty easy to spot. The other two are under the diff. with large washers and large rubber plates with teeth on them. You'll need that jack before loosening these 3 bolts. Pump the jack up so it just lifts up the diff. a few millimeters, then loosen the bolts. Once the rear diff. is free, lower it on the jack until you've got the space you need.
Then just slide and wiggle the stock rear sway bar through this opening.
You'll need help with this for sure, but this job is definitely do-able at home.
Good luck!
EDIT:
By the way, the end links were not easy to un-fasten and re-fasten. Some improvising would need to happen. We used channel locks, and gripped it on the end link bushing to hold down the inner set-bolt (because it spins freely). There is an allen key hole you could try to use to hold the bolt in place, but that strips down very easily. These bolts have lock-tight on them, so it might help to hose it down with some PB Blaster. If you're careful, you could re-use your end links, and some will need to replace them.
but we also installed a lot of other parts.I don't have any pictures, but this is how we installed my Whiteline Rear Sway Bar:
Undue the sway bar from the endlinks and rear subframe (brackets/bushings). There are four bolts connecting the driveshaft to the rear diff. I don't know how to explain very well where this area is, but we didn't pull the driveshaft out of the differential (so there wasn't any fluid leakage to worry about), but it's the joint in the driveshaft closest to the rear diff. Pull your e-brake on HARD, so the wheels lock up, and you have some support when you're loosening these 4 bolts on the driveshaft.
We then disconnected the rear differential from the rear subframe and had it resting on a jack so it's not dangling too far down. There are only three large bolts that hold the rear diff. to the car. One runs parallel to the rear diff. and connects through a large rubber bushing through the middle of the rear subframe, pretty easy to spot. The other two are under the diff. with large washers and large rubber plates with teeth on them. You'll need that jack before loosening these 3 bolts. Pump the jack up so it just lifts up the diff. a few millimeters, then loosen the bolts. Once the rear diff. is free, lower it on the jack until you've got the space you need.
Then just slide and wiggle the stock rear sway bar through this opening.
You'll need help with this for sure, but this job is definitely do-able at home.
Good luck!
EDIT:
By the way, the end links were not easy to un-fasten and re-fasten. Some improvising would need to happen. We used channel locks, and gripped it on the end link bushing to hold down the inner set-bolt (because it spins freely). There is an allen key hole you could try to use to hold the bolt in place, but that strips down very easily. These bolts have lock-tight on them, so it might help to hose it down with some PB Blaster. If you're careful, you could re-use your end links, and some will need to replace them.
Last edited by toredefine; May 2, 2011 at 01:55 PM.
thanks for the write up..
i ordered the Rear sway bar thinking it would be easy like the one on the 10.... but it isnt!
I was going to tackle this at home .. but never found some mech-savvy buddies to help out, I guess ill pay someone to do it for me =(
i ordered the Rear sway bar thinking it would be easy like the one on the 10.... but it isnt!
I was going to tackle this at home .. but never found some mech-savvy buddies to help out, I guess ill pay someone to do it for me =(
I found a shop close to me that is going to do the install. Sounds like it is going to be money well spent.
I noticed the sway bar didn't come with any brackets for the new bushings, were you able to reuse the stock brackets?
I noticed the sway bar didn't come with any brackets for the new bushings, were you able to reuse the stock brackets?
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I thought the package would include new brackets, as well, but they don't! So you're right, you would have to use the stock brackets. I used them and they fit perfectly. It's just the inner diameter of Whiteline's bushing that would differ from the stock bushing as far as fitment.
i just received my Racingline Endlink to complete the suspension upgrade. I highly recommend this upgrade to anyone.. since OEM endlinks are not cheap anyway... might just upgrade it at the same time.
Our rear endlink are listed under "Evo X Front Endlink" on their website.
Our rear endlink are listed under "Evo X Front Endlink" on their website.
I did this install without touching the driveshaft. Instead, I removed the two brackets (one on each side) that are under the axles. This way, I was able to drop the differential somewhere between 12-18 inches (I don't remember exactly) and maneuver the old sway bar out and the new one in.
I'm not saying the way I did it is any easier. Just that there's another way of doing it.
I'm not saying the way I did it is any easier. Just that there's another way of doing it.
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I did this install without touching the driveshaft. Instead, I removed the two brackets (one on each side) that are under the axles. This way, I was able to drop the differential somewhere between 12-18 inches (I don't remember exactly) and maneuver the old sway bar out and the new one in.
I'm not saying the way I did it is any easier. Just that there's another way of doing it.
I'm not saying the way I did it is any easier. Just that there's another way of doing it.
Oh wow, that's a great idea, too! Nice job man.
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I did this install without touching the driveshaft. Instead, I removed the two brackets (one on each side) that are under the axles. This way, I was able to drop the differential somewhere between 12-18 inches (I don't remember exactly) and maneuver the old sway bar out and the new one in.
I'm not saying the way I did it is any easier. Just that there's another way of doing it.
I'm not saying the way I did it is any easier. Just that there's another way of doing it.
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (6)
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Posts: 549
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From: Detroit, MI USA

Wait till you see my car bro, it's sick!
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