I'd like to thank Rich for disabling p0139. Now I only have p0137.

Got custom tune last week. Love it but have to accept the limitation of our tranny in regards to clutches' pressure.

 

I updated to v30 Turneds off the O2 sensor via the ECU #2. The CEL came on in additional to the EDU boolean switch you also have to set the other O2 options to 0 and 8000.

 

So no more cel for u?

 

So under Ecu #2 you delete "rear o2 sensor enabled" and write in 0 to 8000? Or what?

 

Hey, no nicking my avatar, you sneaky bugger! Get yer own, lol.

Rich

 

hahaha i really though it was u Rich replying until i saw ur post... maybe i should switch to the same avatar too...

 

"Don't touch my junk!".

Rich

 

no more cel

 

So far full week on v30.006 91 octane, boost pill 2009 USDM RA.
Transmission seams tighter all around, less slop, less clunk.
Leaving it in auto / normal the shift habbits and throttle response seem quite improved, I havent taken her outta town yet and havent looked indepth at the tranny temps, but by feel, it is a nice improvement!!

Just FYI, if you have an android phone, look up the " torque " app in the market / play store, it is well worth $4.00 us, lets you read and clear CEL'S, read realtime data from OBD2, boost, commanded af, intake air temp, trans temp....ECT...but ya will need a bluetooth ELM327 device ( about $25.00 - 30.00 ) very good toy!!!

Thanks Richard, great update!!!

Best regards,

Chris

 

Thank you for that! Now I have a reason to get a docking device in my car =D

BTW.

Thank you rich for the v30, car feels great on the AEM TBE 93OCT.

You're my hero~

 

Hi all,

New to DIY tuning. Just a quick question about the XML file. I have a 2010 USDM, looking at the site with the XML files razor has 55590006 and 55590007 2010 USDM listed. Not quite sure which one if not both I should be adding to the folder in EcuFlash. Advice??

Thanks

 

Quick question. If I want to run the 91 Oct. 2010 Boost pill base map would it be necessary to run gauges to monitor this setup like boost or a/f ratio? Thanks

 

You'll be wanting 55590006.xml.


Gauges are good. But not exactly necessary. You should definitely log boost, for sure, and review boost vs. targets.

A wideband is strongly recommended to check your tune. It's also a fantastic insurance policy, even after you "know" your fuelling is good. It can quickly tell you if something's not right, like if a hose has come off, a relay has failed, etc. A gauge will tell you on the spot, instead of having to review logs later. It might just save you an engine!

But in the end, it's up to you!

Personally, I have an Innovate XD-16 air-fuel gauge in front of me as I drive. I don't have a boost gauge - I'll let the ECU boost target/limit mechanisms watch over that.

Hope that helps you decide what to do...

Rich

 

Thanks for the help Rich. Since your brought up gauges... what should the read out be like for the wideband? Cruising I notice my w/b at anywhere between 14.5-15.3 and WOT around 10.7-11.6 just eyeballing it or when I actually look. Haven't started logging yet.

Also, I notice a slight "knock" noise if you want to call it since flashing. Even my girlfriend notice the noise which is surprising in itself (haha?) since she called me out on it and said "You got your car tune didn't you? Not again!!!" Noise happen randomly and surely an noise you can hear. I tried playing it off but girlfriend doesn't believe me.

 

In closed-loop fuelling mode (idling, cruising, light acceleration), your gauge will indeed hover around 14.7.

At WOT, it depends on which tune you're running, and how long you've stayed on-throttle. The ECU is set up to use progressive enrichment, so while you'll see low- to mid-11s to begin with, by the end of a quarter mile run it will be more like mid-10s.

If you're not on Bryan's TBE style tune, it could even get to 10.0:1, which is pretty rich.


The knocking noise... you mean "clunks"? Off-throttle, as you slow down? The SST will tend to be a bit more talkative on this tune, as it switches down the gears. Not sure there's a way to eliminate those occasional clunks without impacting the improvements in driveability (ie. the primary target of the retune work).

Rich