in the last couple of weeks i have been getting a SES light. i took it to autozone to read the code(i dont remember what the code number was) and the scanner said something about air metering. the light will come on and the engine will lose power and then idle high. then the next time i drive it the light will still be on, but will run fine. then a day or two later the light will go off, then in another couple of days it will start the process all over again . so far it has happend 3 times, usually while cruising around 80mph and when cracking the throttle about 50%. i figure it might be the mass air sensor but i assume when it goes out its not gonna fix itself like my car seems to be doing. i have a ttp tune and k&n drop-in, i have had them both done for about 8-10 months and have never had a problem with them.

 

Without the code its pretty hard to diagnose the issue. You might want to flash it back to stock and take it to the dealer if the light keeps coming on.

 

it's likely a maf code. usually attributed to a bov leak or some other unexpected activity on the intake side of the engine. it happens because at highway speeds, you are usually under a very light boost condition and the recirculation valve is in a state that can be difficult to manage if the car isnt set up properly. i had this problem with the hks ssqv installed. every time i would let off the gas coming up to a toll plaza and then try to accelerate moderately back to cruising speed, it would flutter like crazy and throw a code p1235 i believe. then it would lose power drastically and by the time i'd get to the side of the road, the idle would be really high (around 2k rpms and it would hunt up and down 500-1k rpms) and the shifts were extremely rough. turning the car off and letting it sit for a minute then restarting gets it to run normally again, but the code is obviously, as you said, still present.

if the kn filter and tune are really the only things done to the car, i'd take it back to ttp cause there's likely something in the tune that's not allowing the recirculation system to function properly and there's air going where it shouldnt. if you have their "boost control" modification installed, i would reconsider getting the gst or ams pill instead and get the car retuned for that.

for the time being, in order to prevent this from happening, if you are cruising at highway speeds and want to accelerate somewhat rapidly, let off the gas for a second, tap the left shift paddle to downshift and, once it has shifted, then hit the gas. the shift will cause enough pressure differential in the system to quickly open and reseal the valve effectively so there is no leak back up to the turbo, and no bucking condition, and effectively, no cel.

good luck!

 

thanks, ill try that. it really doesnt bother me that bad, just more of an annoyance.

 

awesome info solved my problem