ok guys and gals

here it is...

my 09 RA 16000 miles on it

new plugs

newly replaced relays to the blue ones... even the fuel pump replay total of 4 relays... and grey one for the MFI

MODs:

cobb ap stage 2 map for CA

dry k&n filter just checked it still pink
forge motorsport BPV
3" test pipe
3" custom catback

i have ran this config for about 8000+ mile now...

all of the sudden the heat starts to come out i start to see abnormal engine knocking high as 4.8CA / .35 = 18.7 knock count

i only knock when doing WOT pulls.... in 2nd 3rd 4th and some times 5th gear.... when the boost spike i knock... most between 4k to redline..... 1st and 6th gear is fine for some reason

i have check everything and did everything cobb ask me to....

i even drained my tank of gas and put fresh 76 91 octane in

cobb told me...

plugs, fuel pump relay, filter, and make sure i have 91 octane in it

i need help i had this same problem with my stage 1 CA map... and then i finally when to stage 2 its gone... but now its back...

please help i am sooo feed up with the lack of support with the ralliarts... and the COBB AP works like a charm with all the EVO X guys.....

sigh

every please chime in.... i dont wanna blow my engine... and i dont wanna think i have wasted 600 buck on a useless product...

thanks

evil

For starters, I don't recall the COBB maps being compatible with a test pipe and BOV. Second, post a log of what is happening. It could be anything.

oh yea... i have switch back to the stock cat.... and it does the same...

and i have asked cobb about the BPV they say its fine...

here a few logs

thanks

Good point above, the Cobb hardware requirements indicate a high flow catalyst is required for their Stage 2 MAP. Here is the excerpt from Cobb:

Hardware Requirements:

Stage2 -

its a forge BPV

bypass valves are recirculating valves... it was in my RA when i bought it form the dealer.... they put it in since 3 miles when i drove the RA off the lot... lol

and i had it on stage 1 no problem.... i starting to worry its the engine.....


and as i was saying... i have been on the it set up for 8000+ miles no problem!!!!

if you can not help please stop posting.... i need people that can help me and cobb fit this issue... ....

sorry not trying to be an a hole but.... please dont waste time and effort to give bad info.... or info that is not gonna really help the issue out...

thanks


also FYI

imma on REV#1.01

and the high flow cat is to help prevent BACK FIRE on deceleration....

and i guess other info before i was on the rev1.01

when i first installed the turn i have tested with

UR high flow cat and AMS catback... the RA would spool up very weirdly and will spike to fast and it will hit limp mode....

i had some DTC come up... call up cobb and ask for help.... they say reinstall it and see if it just got a glich...

when to HB speed and they said with a OTS stage 2 its the high flow cat is there just to help prevent back fires and smell.... and it can be because of the back pressure against the turbo causing it to spook funny.... just try a test pipe.... that fixed the issue....

but the AMS catback with test pipe is crazy LOUD.... i had to swap out...... end up with a custom stealth catback 3" mandrel bend and zero restriction...

i also bought up this issue at MOD10 and many tuners and build gave me different answers....

so after i got comfortable i keep the set up the way it is... and now its just got STUPID... and i have update to REV#1.01...

all problems when away till now!!!!! so... if anyone can help me and cobb out... great..... please post up

if not... imma getting really tired of the RALLIART acting stupid..... sigh

First of all, put the test pipe back in, the cat is increasing back pressure which increases the probability of knock.

Second, the Forge valve CAN increase boost pressure on it's own, I saw a 1.5 psi gain in boost curve (not peak) on my GSR when I swapped out the stock X valve for the FOrge valve. You may want to TRY putting the stock valve back in and see if boost drops a bit.

Third, try lowering the boost and upping the fuel octane. 91 is not high enough octane for what I am talking about. You need to run the tank as low as you can and them dump in some 100 octane or higher (you can order a pail of VP street blaze or something if you can't find a local station that sell 100 at the pump). See if the knocking goes away, if it does go away then it is real knock and you probably just need a more conservative tune. If it does not go away then you are probably looking at phantom knock and you will need to enlist the help of a VERY competent tuner to help sort it out without over numbing your knock system.

Fourth, if it does turn out to be real knock better go for a leak down test to make sure the rings and pinstons are in good shape.

Firth, do you have a wideband? If not you should.

Lastly, this the is the internets man, you can't control who posts in your thread or the information they post. When you get pissy with them it makes others less likely to want to help you. We all understand how frustrating it can be at times when your car is acting up.. but just be glad people are trying

EDIT: After looking at your logs I'm guessing your just running too lean when it spools hence the need for a wideband.... my advice is to go get a real tune rather than fighting with off the shelf maps.

Also try downloading the 1.02 maps, I think I downloaded them about a month ago. See if you have better luck there. But definitelly take the OEM cat out! If you want to have a cat buy an aftermarket high-flow.

I had the same thing ( well not exactly the same). I installed UR high flow cat, UR down pipe and Magnafow cat back. Then I switched to CObb stage 2, 91 Octane.
At first the knock was insane even though i only used 93 gas. However after about 1k miles it stopped. I called Cobb and asked them what was that all about, but it seamed that they had no answer. They told me to switch gas station. I did not and like I said the knock stopped anyway.

guys and gals

i am still on the test pipe!!!! same setup as i have stated in post 1 lol

like i said.... no to be an a hole... come guys you know what i mean... and for the ones that dont imma just going nuts... about this issue.... thanks for understanding...

now ... mad sb....

i was running this setup for 8000 mile and all of the sudden the cars start to run lean would that be weird???... should i try some octane booster? its kinda of hard to get some 100 octane here.... no alot of tuner shop carry them around me...


10sportback..... where do you see a 1.02??? got links.... and FYI i have a 09 RA


hotkupa...

same thing its almost like the ecm retuned it self when i went to stage 2 it knock a bit for the first 1000 and then gone.... now 7000 later its back.... i hope its not the cali gas stations going cheap and 91 octane is not true 91 octane

Sorry, the 10 maps have a 1.02 version not the 09.

You should just get a proper tune. You will know for sure what is wrong or not wrong.

You mentioned it happened before? How was is corrected? Stage 1 had the same issue, and then stage 2 did not, now does? Perhaps it's dodgy fuel? Have you tried the "Stage2 ACN91 Octane" map? Dirty injectors?


We are trying to help evil03. I just know from plenty experience the COBB maps do not perform well for mods beyond their intended use. For example, a tighter valve or test pipe which yields boost spiking.

There is a fuel station in HB that has race fuel. +100 octane.

Also, where are you located? It's been hot here in SoCal.

So I guess I am just wondering out loud, since you seem to know all the answers already, why are you on an internet forum filled with misinformation asking questions like this?

As far as telling me to stop postinq, um, why don't you stop sucking your mom's tit and man up! You are frustrated because your car is messed up and so you take shots at someone just trying to help? Great response junior, in the real world men act like men and show respect to others, and immature little boys, well, I think you probably already know how litle boys act, no one needs to explain that to you.

I thought you might appreciate advice from someone who had actually gotten their car setup properly to run the Cobb Stage 2 map. But as wise MEN say, misery loves company, so rather than consider the advice, I guess you would prefer to share your misery. Good luck.

No it would not be weird if an injector failed or the shelf map was on the ragged edge for your setup (the latter is not lean condition related in and of it's self)... you did mention this started as the weather got hotter yes.... that is your first clue it's a tuning issue.

No, do not use octane booster, most are crap and only bump the octane a minuscule amount (like 0.1 points). dcpatters mentioned a station in HB (I assume huntington beach?) that has 100 at the pump... much better to make the drive and get 5 or 10 gallons than to keep wondering and possibly hurt the motor.

You need to raise the octane by a major amount for this test to be affective, this is only a test to see if the knock is real or phantom and or due to boost or fuel issues. NOS makes one that I have seen work on BMW's when Shiv was in town doing a dyno day but I have no idea which one it was in particular.... better safe then sorry and spend you time looking for high octane gas. Check VP race fuels website for a distributor in your area:
http://www.vpracingfuels.com/vp-racing-dealers.html

There are a BUNCH of distributors in cali:
http://www.asenz360services.com/vpma...ildomarCA.html

You can buy a 5 gallon pail and they will deliver it to you.

BTW, Lets keep this thread civil now that we have established the etiquette rules surrounding asking for help