I am planning to install a CBRD RAD Lite on my 2009 Ralliart in the next couple of months.

Seeking input from those that have already done the install. Any advice would be appreciated.

Does anyone have a list of part numbers for all of the seals/gaskets that should be replaced as part of the swap ?

Any gotchas to avoid ? Does the Ralliart also have the "bolt of hell" like the Evos ?

What level of boost do you run on the RAD Lite ?

I have heard of a couple of blown motors on Ralliarts with RAD Lite Turbo? Any idea what caused the motors to blow ? Can the stock Ralliart motor handle the power of the RAD Lite? Any easy ways to strengthen the motor?

Is it OK to still run regular synthetic oil ie Mobil 1 or Penzoil Platinum or do I need to go with a racing oil


(Please no posts on why I should upgrade to a stock Evox Turbo- I have read those posts and my decision has been made)

 

Boost is all up to what you run but I've seen 23-26 psi and its pretty hard to blow a 4b11t. They had to of just beaten the living **** out of it because it can have stock internals and still max out the RAD and still be safe. but if you'd go with like s1 or s2 cams you'll see a nice jump in power. Get away from Mobil1, my RA runs leaps and bounds better with Valvoline Full Synthetic and a KN oil filter.
Also while you're in there swapping out your turbo, get the Ultimate Racing Long Downpipe from MAP and they'll ceramic coat it for only 150

 

And if you like to race people from stoplights or plan on driving hard, get the SSP clutches. I've screwed my clutches from launches

 

i'm about to do this swap myself, and seeing as i have it apart anyway i'm replacing any seals & gaskets that i take off to do it

as i'm sitting at nearly 48,000km figure what the hell mid as well

theres no set "you need to replace these parts" list as of yet but it a good practice to replace seals and gaskets when you replace parts

but heres what i'm looking at picking up formy install


all items are on the "engine, engine/transaxle, turbocharger & components" page on mitsuparts.net oem part look up

(2) oil feed tube seal
(2) oil feed tube gasket
(1) outlet tube gasket
(1) oil outlet tube o-ring

(2) Oil feed tube eye bolt
(1) outlet assembly stud - depending if your RAD is going to come with one or not

(1) seal
(1) exhaust manifold gasket
(1) air outlet gasket
(1) outlet assembly gasket
(1) mount gasket

 

when you swap the turbo, replace the bolts with new ones!! small price to pay...

i reused the same bolts when installing the rad and one of the bolts failed at the track about 9 months later / blew a gasket and sucked in the centring ring between the manifold and turbo. could have gone even more pear shaped, but thankfully i parked the car and found the ring barely a few mm from the compressor blades. i then replaced all the bolts and gaskets and have been trouble free

apart from that, the rad has been a great street turbs been about a year of super fun happy times!

 

Anyone have the part numbers for the bolts and gaskets? My RAD has been sitting in my spare room for almost 6 months now, time to get my *** into gear...

 

we replace the turbo compressor outlet gasket, turbo return gasket and o-ring at the bottom- and exhaust manifold to cylinder head gasket-

bolts/studs are up to your discretion!

There are no ties to a turbo blowing a motor unless someone runs too much boost or tunes improperly-

cb

 

Sub'd

Some good info as I plan on doin the RAD too. Getting and installing all supporting mods this year then rad next.

Has anyone with the RAD got it e-tuned? if so where/who did you use? as I live min 8hrs a from tuner.

 

CBRD you mention replacing the exhaust manifold to cylinder head gasket-

Does this mean you need to remove the exhaust manifold also to swap the turbo ?


How is everyone getting the appropriate part numbers/parts ? Are you buying the parts from your local dealer or is there an online source ?

Can someone post the page from the workshop manual showing the Turbo and the appropriate parts

 

I blew a motor with the RAD, but I was also on e85 and it was due to overboost, lower than ideal ethanol count, and much much colder weather all mixed.

With that said, on 93 or lower, tune and be done, no worries. Even the clutches will be ok, though s-sport mode would be ideal.

Notes/random thoughts.

Yes, we do have the bolt form hell. PB blaster that ***** a day or two before starting, and re-apply daily or twice a day. Actually PB blaster all the bolts a day before, and then on the day you plan to start, I did and it was pretty easy.

I re-used gaskets. But if you want to replace some, it may make sense to buy an entire gasket kit. It's like $2xx from Mitsubishi Parts dot net. The manifold nuts can be a pain to get to. Swivels are your friend.

Take the hood off, it makes life way easier.

You'll need some good extensions and swivels for the bolt of hell.

I e-tuned my RAD Lite on e85 with Bryan (razorlab).

Use some anti-seize on the turbo bolts when they go back in, otherwise plan to break 'em when you move to a bigger turbo.

The long down-pipe is a great idea. It will make life easier on reassembly.

Get some kitty litter, you'll spill some coolant when you remove the lines.

I don't know how familiar,accustom to working on cars you are, but i'll throw this out there. get a muffin pan or something to store bolts and nuts in. As you take them off, label a container and put the bolts in. Do it in order so you just work backwards when re installing.

Feel free to PM me any questions if you have any. My motor is also out of my car, so if you need pics of how something goes together or anything lemme know.

 

I def sub'd to this thread as I will be installing my turbo, hi flow cat, and downpipe in about 3 weeks and tuning with Boostin Performance. I will be replacing all gaskets so its good to know what all I need!

 

What exactly is the bolt of hell?

 

if it's the one I think they're talking about, it's the bolt I contracted out to my local muffler shop to remove. It requires about 5ft worth of extensions to be able to reach and get enough torque on it to turn without stripping. Doing it under a car on ramps or jack stands and with only hand tools has got to be one of the worst kinds of punishment to wish upon someone.

 

So is it a bolt on the o2 housing? The manifold? Or the support bracket on the turbo itself?

 

its a bracket on the underside of the turbo. The bolt going into the block is the bolt from hell, or as i named it on my label "****er bolt"