ECU reset question
ECU reset question
I'd like to reset my ECU without disconnecting the battery (which would mess with my Nav's settings) and without actually unplugging it (the Ralliart's engine bay is really cramped around it, so it is way too much work). Now supposedly pulling the #2 7.5A fuse should do it, but I tried that today and it didn't do anything at all.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
Unplugging the ECU get's risky any way you slice it. What's the reason for the reset? Most of the reset requirements can be done via Tactrix or M.U.T. III reading/writing.
I'd like to reset my ECU without disconnecting the battery (which would mess with my Nav's settings) and without actually unplugging it (the Ralliart's engine bay is really cramped around it, so it is way too much work). Now supposedly pulling the #2 7.5A fuse should do it, but I tried that today and it didn't do anything at all.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
I want the car to relearn all of its parameters from scratch to see if that would make a difference with my transmission's somewhat annoying behavior.
Ever since I installed a downpipe and hfc in January Normal mode has felt off - in Auto it shifts kind of lazily while in Manual the RPMs keep climbing a fair bit before the shift actually happens. In Sport mode Auto is great, but Manual still has a little bit of hesitation, so shifts aren't quite as quick as I would like them to be. I already did a transmission fluid and filter change, which made just a slight difference (the car only has 20K kms, so fluid and filter were not all that dirty), then I switched from a Cobb Stage 2 to a GST boost pill + TBE map, which improved things quite a bit. The weather change from really cold winter temperatures to spring made a big difference as well. The key thing is that the transmission's behavior doesn't quite feel like slipping, more like hesitation in between gears. For example in Normal mode when I upshift, it registers it immediately on the dash, then half a second to a second later I get the actual shift, which at that point is quick, but kind of rough. That's the case even if I apply just a bit of throttle. The negative impact of lower temperatures and the notable amount of backfire when the car is cold also makes me think it's not necessarily a slipping issue, but could have something to do with the fueling.
One of my theories is that getting the car to do some relearning could help. Either way sometime in the next month I'll install a different hfc with a wideband bung and I'll bring the car to the dyno for a couple of runs with afr testing to see how much power I've made since last summer and see if there is any truth to my suspicions about the transmission's behavior.
In any case, if you have any suggestions for resetting the ECU without powering it off, I would definitely like to hear them.
Ever since I installed a downpipe and hfc in January Normal mode has felt off - in Auto it shifts kind of lazily while in Manual the RPMs keep climbing a fair bit before the shift actually happens. In Sport mode Auto is great, but Manual still has a little bit of hesitation, so shifts aren't quite as quick as I would like them to be. I already did a transmission fluid and filter change, which made just a slight difference (the car only has 20K kms, so fluid and filter were not all that dirty), then I switched from a Cobb Stage 2 to a GST boost pill + TBE map, which improved things quite a bit. The weather change from really cold winter temperatures to spring made a big difference as well. The key thing is that the transmission's behavior doesn't quite feel like slipping, more like hesitation in between gears. For example in Normal mode when I upshift, it registers it immediately on the dash, then half a second to a second later I get the actual shift, which at that point is quick, but kind of rough. That's the case even if I apply just a bit of throttle. The negative impact of lower temperatures and the notable amount of backfire when the car is cold also makes me think it's not necessarily a slipping issue, but could have something to do with the fueling.
One of my theories is that getting the car to do some relearning could help. Either way sometime in the next month I'll install a different hfc with a wideband bung and I'll bring the car to the dyno for a couple of runs with afr testing to see how much power I've made since last summer and see if there is any truth to my suspicions about the transmission's behavior.
In any case, if you have any suggestions for resetting the ECU without powering it off, I would definitely like to hear them.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post