How to: change your own oil (n00b edition)
#16
If you know the dimensional and material specs on it, you can get a whole bag of gaskets for free from McMaster as an "engineering sample" if you work for a company that has an account. Probably get some with even better properties than the original.
#17
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Mitsubishi recommends a synthetic blend for the ralliarts, altho i personally would use a full synthetic. that being said, going from conventional to synthetic and back again is not going to be an issue since the recommended synthetic blend is a blend of conventional and synthetic. most dealers have gone to a synthetic blend (ask), and i know we charge about 37 bucks and some change for the blend, full synthetic, yeah, your looking at around 80 bucks unless you bring your own (which lots of people do). also, IMO the best filter to go with the car (provided its not a fully built race car, and if it is, you wouldnt be reading this) is the factory filter. generally runs between 7 and 8 bucks. car was designed to use that filter, might as well use it. just my .02
#18
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as far as the filter question goes, you're better off going oem than anything else unless of course its full race application which, as said before, shouldnt need to read this thread. for the extra two bucks over aftermarket cost its worth it. besides, they come pre-lubricated. MZ690116 in case anyone wants this part no. also
#19
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Edit. I just saw a picture of the gasket and its nothing like what they gave me. I guess I´ll be paying some other parts store a visit from now on.
Last edited by rdc; Jun 20, 2009 at 07:46 PM.
#20
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I might need to get some of those ramps. I checked the manual ('09 Ralliart) and I may have missed where they indicate the recommended jacking points. All I can find refenced in the manual are the side jack points (for changing a flat tire with the rickety jack provided with the spare).
Does anyone know an acceptable front jacking point for a floor jack and jack stands (that won't crush and bend the underbody)?
How about the rear jack points as well for performing tire cross-rotation?
TIA
Does anyone know an acceptable front jacking point for a floor jack and jack stands (that won't crush and bend the underbody)?
How about the rear jack points as well for performing tire cross-rotation?
TIA
#27
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Are you changing the oil filter as well? If you're not changing the oil filter I could see it only taking about 4 1/2 quarts but if you are changing the oil and oil filter it definitely takes 5 quarts.
#28
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1st change i did the filter too, let it drain bone dry and added 5 qts and the stick was reading over-filled as hell. gave it a couple days and checked it againv- still over-filled - so i drained it and put back in about 4 1/4 qts after draining and re-installing the filter talso and it reads full now. 4 1/4 and its top dot on the stick, with 5 qts it was a goodf 1/2 inch over...cant explain it but def dont wanna drive over-filled...thoughts?
#29
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I'm guessing that even though you let it drain "bone dry" there was still a good amount of oil left, like in the lines to the turbo for example.
I just changed my oil for the first time with Mobil 1 and noticed the same thing...I drained everything and replaced the filter (which was slightly bigger than stock). The manual said it would take something like 5.4 quarts with a new filter, but I found that after 5 quarts it was a little over-filled too.
I just changed my oil for the first time with Mobil 1 and noticed the same thing...I drained everything and replaced the filter (which was slightly bigger than stock). The manual said it would take something like 5.4 quarts with a new filter, but I found that after 5 quarts it was a little over-filled too.
#30
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That's weird??? I don't know what to say about it taking less than 5qts. I did mine for the first time about a month ago and after draining the oil and removing the filter 5qts was dead nuts on. Meaning it was filled up to the second dot but wasn't over. I did let mine drain for about a half hour as I enjoyed a few cold beers but didn't do anything special.