How to: change your own oil (n00b edition)
Jun 11, 2009, 09:44 AM
#1
How to: change your own oil (n00b edition)
a lot of questions seem to be asked about changing the oil on the RA, so i figured i'd do a tutorial.
first off, i would highly recommend using synthetic oil even though the factory does not require it. reason being that you have oil running through your turbine, which is THE hottest part that you have oil running through. conventional oil does not stand up to that kind of heat very well and breaks down faster than a full synthetic would. synthetic oil leads to longer engine and turbo life.
so, first off, you'll need 5 quarts of synthetic oil (i used mobil 1 5w-30), a new oil filter (i got mine from NAPA for $7, but you can get one anywhere as long as you don't buy a Fram), a bucket or something to catch 5 quarts worth of oil in, a 3/8" ratchet, a 10mm socket, a 17mm socket, a funnel, and last but not least: a 2009 lancer ralliart.
start by getting your car up in the air. either by a jack and jack-stands, or using ramps such as i did. (note that you'll need some sort of 2x4/2x6/anything to get your car up before the ramp so the front bumper will clear it)
check your oil level before you begin just to make sure your car is in good shape, not burning oil, etc. (if you don't know how to check your oil: remove the dipstick, wipe it off, then re-insert it fully, then pull it back out and check.)
oil level should be between the two dots.
next, get under your car with the ratchet and 10mm socket, and remove the bolts (as indicated by my faint red circles) holding on the access door for the filter and drain plug.
next, locate the filter and drain plug
filter:
drain plug:
view of both:
next, remove your old filter. this can be done with your hands if you have a strong grip, or you can be a wiener and use a filter wrench or cup
oil will come out of the filter as you start to loosen it, so be ready to catch it with your bucket.
next, wipe off the filter base on the engine. this will ensure good, clean contact between the engine and filter.
now prepare your new filter for installation by lubricating the gasket with fresh oil. this will ensure that the gasket does not distort when tightening it to the engine.
now screw the filter to the engine using only your hands. do not use a wrench because doing so will make it excessively difficult to remove in the future. simply get it as tight as you can with one hand.
now remove your drain plug with the 17mm socket. make sure your bucket is under it so you catch the oil and not make a huge mess.
let the oil drain out until it's barely coming out at all. the stream should be weaker than this:
inspect the drain plug and make sure the gasket is in good shape. if it's not, oil can leak out. if this is your first oil change, it should be fine. if not, you may need to replace the plug.
now reinstall the drain plug. make sure it's good and tight, but don't over tighten it. don't want to strip it out!
now go topside and use your funnel to put the 5 quarts of oil down. go slow when pouring so you don't over flow and end up with oil all over your engine.
once that's done, put the oil cap back on and start your car. let it run until the oil pressure stabilizes, then poke your head under the car to make sure your filter and plug aren't leaking. if they're not, then you're good. shut off the car.
now check and make sure the oil level is correct. 5 quarts should get you to the top of the space between the dots, which is full.
if it's not there, add a little at a time until it is.
now you can put your access door back on the skid-plate, back your car off the ramps, and you're done!
you can dispose of your old oil by taking it to your local auto parts store or lube shop.
first off, i would highly recommend using synthetic oil even though the factory does not require it. reason being that you have oil running through your turbine, which is THE hottest part that you have oil running through. conventional oil does not stand up to that kind of heat very well and breaks down faster than a full synthetic would. synthetic oil leads to longer engine and turbo life.
so, first off, you'll need 5 quarts of synthetic oil (i used mobil 1 5w-30), a new oil filter (i got mine from NAPA for $7, but you can get one anywhere as long as you don't buy a Fram), a bucket or something to catch 5 quarts worth of oil in, a 3/8" ratchet, a 10mm socket, a 17mm socket, a funnel, and last but not least: a 2009 lancer ralliart.
start by getting your car up in the air. either by a jack and jack-stands, or using ramps such as i did. (note that you'll need some sort of 2x4/2x6/anything to get your car up before the ramp so the front bumper will clear it)
check your oil level before you begin just to make sure your car is in good shape, not burning oil, etc. (if you don't know how to check your oil: remove the dipstick, wipe it off, then re-insert it fully, then pull it back out and check.)
oil level should be between the two dots.
next, get under your car with the ratchet and 10mm socket, and remove the bolts (as indicated by my faint red circles) holding on the access door for the filter and drain plug.
next, locate the filter and drain plug
filter:
drain plug:
view of both:
next, remove your old filter. this can be done with your hands if you have a strong grip, or you can be a wiener and use a filter wrench or cup
oil will come out of the filter as you start to loosen it, so be ready to catch it with your bucket.
next, wipe off the filter base on the engine. this will ensure good, clean contact between the engine and filter.
now prepare your new filter for installation by lubricating the gasket with fresh oil. this will ensure that the gasket does not distort when tightening it to the engine.
now screw the filter to the engine using only your hands. do not use a wrench because doing so will make it excessively difficult to remove in the future. simply get it as tight as you can with one hand.
now remove your drain plug with the 17mm socket. make sure your bucket is under it so you catch the oil and not make a huge mess.
let the oil drain out until it's barely coming out at all. the stream should be weaker than this:
inspect the drain plug and make sure the gasket is in good shape. if it's not, oil can leak out. if this is your first oil change, it should be fine. if not, you may need to replace the plug.
now reinstall the drain plug. make sure it's good and tight, but don't over tighten it. don't want to strip it out!
now go topside and use your funnel to put the 5 quarts of oil down. go slow when pouring so you don't over flow and end up with oil all over your engine.
once that's done, put the oil cap back on and start your car. let it run until the oil pressure stabilizes, then poke your head under the car to make sure your filter and plug aren't leaking. if they're not, then you're good. shut off the car.
now check and make sure the oil level is correct. 5 quarts should get you to the top of the space between the dots, which is full.
if it's not there, add a little at a time until it is.
now you can put your access door back on the skid-plate, back your car off the ramps, and you're done!
you can dispose of your old oil by taking it to your local auto parts store or lube shop.
Jun 11, 2009, 09:53 AM
#2
Thanks for the Tut, I didn't want to mess with changing my own oil cause u have 2 get rid of the freaking panel and all and then to put it back on... gosh, so much work! 
But I'ma start changing my own oil, I had it with the dealer touching my car; everytime I get it back from them there's something not working right; last time I went to get my "STILL UNDER WARRANTY" aligment the screwed up so bad I had to pan the steering wheel in a 10 degree angle to keep the car straight, you have no idea how frustrating that is, with that good looking steering crooked as hell and your wheels screwing up bad!
But I'ma start changing my own oil, I had it with the dealer touching my car; everytime I get it back from them there's something not working right; last time I went to get my "STILL UNDER WARRANTY" aligment the screwed up so bad I had to pan the steering wheel in a 10 degree angle to keep the car straight, you have no idea how frustrating that is, with that good looking steering crooked as hell and your wheels screwing up bad!
Jun 11, 2009, 02:04 PM
#4
i'm not sure. you can just ask at any parts store and they should be able to get the right one. every manufacturer has they're own different part codes, so it wouldn't do you any good to know what kind i used unless you went to NAPA.
^^jazket, i feel your frustration with dealerships. when they tinted my windows, it came back to me with a ton of little scratches on the rear fender.
but seriously, taking that access door off the skid plate is super easy. it probably took me less than a minute to do. so i think changing my own oil was totally worth it. it was only $29 out of pocket for me, yet if i had taken it to the dealer, it probably would've cost $50+
^^jazket, i feel your frustration with dealerships. when they tinted my windows, it came back to me with a ton of little scratches on the rear fender.
but seriously, taking that access door off the skid plate is super easy. it probably took me less than a minute to do. so i think changing my own oil was totally worth it. it was only $29 out of pocket for me, yet if i had taken it to the dealer, it probably would've cost $50+
Jun 11, 2009, 02:47 PM
#5
According to the ralliart manual, it says change the filter every other oil change, is this right? Last car I had was a 97' and I don't remember that kind of phenominal life out of the filter.
Jun 11, 2009, 03:58 PM
#6
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LOTS of cars, especially European have recommended changing the filter every other oil change, probably since the 80s. I have done this with many of my cars. However, with the extended change intervals of synthetic oils, I would probably change the filter every time.
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Jun 14, 2009, 02:55 PM
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Nice write up. I was gonna do one myself but when i got the splash guard off i realize the parts guy at the dealer gave me the wrong filter. :-<
Jun 16, 2009, 11:04 AM
#15
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Can anyone put up a picture of the drain plug gasket? I believe it's the same for the first gen RA. My problem is that when I went to pick one up at the local Mitsu auto parts, the guy looked it up and then gave me a regular washer saying that it was the gasket. 