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How to: change your own oil (n00b edition)

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Old Sep 8, 2009, 08:37 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by akj237
That's weird??? I don't know what to say about it taking less than 5qts. I did mine for the first time about a month ago and after draining the oil and removing the filter 5qts was dead nuts on. Meaning it was filled up to the second dot but wasn't over. I did let mine drain for about a half hour as I enjoyed a few cold beers but didn't do anything special.
second dot after filling, after sitting (a few hours, overnight, whatever) or after driving?
Old Sep 8, 2009, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by mattgood2
second dot after filling, after sitting (a few hours, overnight, whatever) or after driving?
The second dot after filling. My normal procedure:

1. Drain oil & remove filter
2. Replace filter and drain plug gskt
3. Fill with 5qts oil
4. Start engine and let run for approx. 30 sec.
5. Turn off engine and let oil drain back into pan (wait approx. 1 min)
6. Check oil (when I do this my oil reads at the second fill dot)

Also, make sure you are checking the oil on a level surface. If you are on a slope or still have your car jacked up you are going to get an inacurate reading.
Old Nov 18, 2009, 07:27 AM
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Very good explanation, very good shots. Excelente!
Old Nov 21, 2010, 12:00 AM
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Thanks for the write up, worked great.
Old Nov 30, 2010, 10:11 AM
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good write up, worked great for me. A little overfilled as well, any idea how to reset the thing that tells you how long you have till u need an oil change. sorry total n00b here haha

Last edited by 2010TBRalliart; Dec 2, 2010 at 04:10 PM.
Old Feb 27, 2011, 10:39 PM
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anyone done an engine flush yet? figure my cars a year old it could use one, just wanted to see if anyone else has bothered to do it
Old Feb 27, 2011, 11:14 PM
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nice write up!
Old Feb 28, 2011, 02:32 PM
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I do not recomand engine flash because it leaves you engine completly dry without any lubrication on piston walls. So when you start you car the first few times pistons go up and down there is no lubrication at all because it takes oil pump a split second to kick in.
Also another thing about using syntetic oil is that it does not leave any mineral deposit on your oil pump. This is very important on all imports and specialy german cars when the oil pump can die at 60 K due to minarals deposit. i would imagine the same would applay to Mitsubishi.
Old Mar 1, 2011, 07:18 PM
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thats the kind of info i was looking for thanks
Old Mar 27, 2011, 04:25 PM
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nice tutorial, thanks for the help.
Old May 27, 2011, 03:11 PM
  #41  
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Thanks for this. I am going to start changing my own oil once I have the facilities. For now I've been taking it to the local Mitsu dealer and paying about $85 for filter and synthetic.
Old May 28, 2011, 04:22 PM
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thanks for the tutorial! bought the RA so I can learn more about cars, and planned on changing the oil myself one day. this tutorial will definitely help!
Old Dec 17, 2011, 04:02 PM
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My car also has the wrong number in the manual. According to the manual, my car takes 5.4 quarts or 5.1 liters, so I bought a 5 liter jug of oil and filled my car with it. It was over the maximum mark. At the next oil change, I bought a 5.1 Quart oil jug, poured it all in, and it was over the maximum mark as well.

That is very annoying.
Old Oct 20, 2013, 04:41 PM
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you can go back to regular oil. it wont affect lubrication , seals, or really anything inside the engine, however, using regular oil in any engine with these compression numbers, and also the fact that turbo charged engines run hotter in almost all portions of the engine, switching to regular oil at all is going to shorten the life of all surfaces in the engine and oil-pressurized components .


Originally Posted by focalart
Nice write up. I always wondered this, if you go to full syn oil, would there be a problem going back to reg oil?
Old Nov 24, 2014, 07:53 AM
  #45  
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can anyone redo this with pics that work? Thank you.


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