How to: Replace Rear Rotors and Pads
May 21, 2012, 11:25 AM
#1
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
How to: Replace Rear Rotors and Pads
This is 09 Ralliart rear rotor and pad replacement.
Tools required;
-Hammer
-1/2 or 3/8 ratchet with sockets 15mm or 14mm (not sure I forgot
)
-Breaker bar (depending on level of rust, I required as I changed them at 75,000kms and I live in Canada)
-Brake Cleaner
-Rags/paper towel
-Brake Lube (I got synthetic high heat)
-Metal Hanger(to hang caliper)
-WD 40 (makes everything slide just a bit easier
)
-C-clamp or Very strong man hands
-Gloves (aids in reducing the bloody knuckle)
-2x jack stands
-1x Jack
-Flat head screw driver
-Wire brush or dremmel or drill with wire brush attachment
-BIGGER HAMMER
Jack up car and support with jack stands and make sure your e-brake is not engagued as it will make things much more difficult.
Remove the caliper bolts are on back and shown below they are different so dont mix them up.
Remove caliper bracket.
Hammer time, hit the rotor in between the wheel bolts to loosen them up then hit the rotor from the inside(where the caliper and caliper bracket used to be) and rotate every couple of hits if it does not come off easily. You may need to upgrade your hammer size... I had some difficulty as I used a framing hammer with full swings. More Rust = more
DW 40 can help by spraying on the wheel bolts and around the center hub where it meets the rotor(soak time 5-60mins depends on rust and how much time you have)
Hard work is rewarded only for you too realize there is another side to do. After the rotor is off clean the hub with wire brush to remove rust. Also take time to inspect you e-brake.
Inboard pad replacement hammer time. Then us old pad to push the caliper piston back in- two methods
1-open brake resovior cap and use c-clamp or very strong man hands with old pad on piston and PUSH!!!
2-same as above except dont open brake resovior cap instead open bleeder on caliper and PUSH!!!! (this method helps to get rid of some dirty rusty brake fluid instead of pushing it back up into the system works best with two people) small wrench req or vice grips to open close bleeder
Outboard pads are a bit different as the have 2 bumps and metal clippy things. The caliper has 2 dimples I found the easiest way to remove the pad was Hammer Time
or you can use a flat head screw driver and pry it off/out.
Tools required;
-Hammer
-1/2 or 3/8 ratchet with sockets 15mm or 14mm (not sure I forgot
)-Breaker bar (depending on level of rust, I required as I changed them at 75,000kms and I live in Canada)
-Brake Cleaner
-Rags/paper towel
-Brake Lube (I got synthetic high heat)
-Metal Hanger(to hang caliper)
-WD 40 (makes everything slide just a bit easier
)-C-clamp or Very strong man hands
-Gloves (aids in reducing the bloody knuckle)
-2x jack stands
-1x Jack
-Flat head screw driver
-Wire brush or dremmel or drill with wire brush attachment
-BIGGER HAMMER
Jack up car and support with jack stands and make sure your e-brake is not engagued as it will make things much more difficult.
Remove the caliper bolts are on back and shown below they are different so dont mix them up.
Remove caliper bracket.
Hammer time, hit the rotor in between the wheel bolts to loosen them up then hit the rotor from the inside(where the caliper and caliper bracket used to be) and rotate every couple of hits if it does not come off easily. You may need to upgrade your hammer size... I had some difficulty as I used a framing hammer with full swings. More Rust = more
DW 40 can help by spraying on the wheel bolts and around the center hub where it meets the rotor(soak time 5-60mins depends on rust and how much time you have)
Hard work is rewarded only for you too realize there is another side to do
. After the rotor is off clean the hub with wire brush to remove rust. Also take time to inspect you e-brake. 
Inboard pad replacement hammer time. Then us old pad to push the caliper piston back in- two methods
1-open brake resovior cap and use c-clamp or very strong man hands with old pad on piston and PUSH!!!
2-same as above except dont open brake resovior cap instead open bleeder on caliper and PUSH!!!! (this method helps to get rid of some dirty rusty brake fluid instead of pushing it back up into the system works best with two people) small wrench req or vice grips
to open close bleederOutboard pads are a bit different as the have 2 bumps and metal clippy things. The caliper has 2 dimples I found the easiest way to remove the pad was Hammer Time
or you can use a flat head screw driver and pry it off/out.
Last edited by CFMP RAblue; May 21, 2012 at 06:06 PM.
May 21, 2012, 11:26 AM
#2
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Assembly all above in reverse order!!! lol
Step 1. Put new rotors on and make sure to take the rubber thing as seen below off and put it in the new rotors as they do not come with it.
Lubrication is very important.
Apply lube where arrows point and a ring around the back of the pad where the caliper piston contacts the pad. You could put lube on the caliper piston but its very difficult. Apply about the same amount of lube as if you were buttering a slice of bread. Then put the pad in the caliper bracket and put it back on the car.
Apply lube to the colored scribbly areas using the buttering bread method. (you dont have to cover the whole pad just put a ring around the bump and some on the bump). Then put the pad in the caliper and back on the car.
The caliper bolts... if they look good then you should be fine however if you got dirt on them wipe them with a rag and apply brake LUBE. Also note if they look orange or rust color wipe them down and check the arrows... there is a bit of rust you may need to clean it. I also put some extra lube in rubber boot on the caliper bracket.
Wrench it all down... I dont know the tq specs so I just did a good wrench tight. I recommend checking it all after a few days of drivin just to make sure nothing came loooosse.
Repeat for other side. Time 1-4 hrs depending on rust, average is about 2 hrs. I did all 4 rotors and pads and I started at 3pm and didnt finish til 11pm but my front rotors were PITA!!!!. Hammer time extreme ie I was breaking chunks off my front rotor
... that was before I put some WD 40 on it.
Hope this helps.
Step 1. Put new rotors on and make sure to take the rubber thing as seen below off and put it in the new rotors as they do not come with it.
Lubrication is very important.
Apply lube where arrows point and a ring around the back of the pad where the caliper piston contacts the pad. You could put lube on the caliper piston but its very difficult. Apply about the same amount of lube as if you were buttering a slice of bread
. Then put the pad in the caliper bracket and put it back on the car.
Apply lube to the colored scribbly areas using the buttering bread method. (you dont have to cover the whole pad just put a ring around the bump and some on the bump). Then put the pad in the caliper and back on the car.
The caliper bolts... if they look good then you should be fine however if you got dirt on them wipe them with a rag and apply brake LUBE. Also note if they look orange or rust color wipe them down and check the arrows... there is a bit of rust you may need to clean it. I also put some extra lube in rubber boot on the caliper bracket.
Wrench it all down... I dont know the tq specs so I just did a good wrench tight. I recommend checking it all after a few days of drivin just to make sure nothing came loooosse.
Repeat for other side. Time 1-4 hrs depending on rust, average is about 2 hrs. I did all 4 rotors and pads and I started at 3pm and didnt finish til 11pm but my front rotors were PITA!!!!. Hammer time extreme ie I was breaking chunks off my front rotor
... that was before I put some WD 40 on it.Hope this helps.
Last edited by CFMP RAblue; May 21, 2012 at 12:45 PM.
May 23, 2012, 09:02 PM
#3
Here's a secret, get two long (like 2-3 inch) 8mm bolts.
See those 2 holes on the hat? Just put the bolts in and use em as jack screws.
Once I got the calipers off, it literally took me less than a minute to get each rotor off.
See those 2 holes on the hat? Just put the bolts in and use em as jack screws.
Once I got the calipers off, it literally took me less than a minute to get each rotor off.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Green_Bandit
Lancer Tires, Wheels, Brakes & Suspension - Sponsored by The Tire Rack
21
Sep 9, 2019 02:14 PM
o-townFLA
Evo How To Requests / Questions / Tips
27
Dec 19, 2016 03:54 AM
MitsuJoe
Evo How To Requests / Questions / Tips
468
Feb 20, 2016 11:17 AM
OZ_kidd
Lancer How Tos / Installations
9
Jul 10, 2013 09:28 AM
vtluu
Evo How To Requests / Questions / Tips
25
Mar 31, 2013 02:39 AM
