wewtRallywewt

I dropped my Apex Silver RA off at the local auto detail shop to plastidip the O-ring and part of the front bumper to mimic the Evo. 2 days later, when I returned to pick it up, one of their guys told me that the plastidip on the chrome O-ring was breaking apart like wet tissue paper. I asked them if they prepped the O-ring for spraying, and they said they had to scuff it up for better adhesion. And they denied using any other harsh chemicals to detail the plastidipped areas. In full disclosure, they used Armor-All's Custom Shield to plastidip, not the actual PlastiDip product. I've read online reviews by dipyourcar.com and both products seem to perform comparatively well. Does anyone know why AA's plastidip is breaking apart so soon on chrome? Thanks guys...

chrylaser

Clean the surface well and let it dry for a while before dipping. I suggest laying down four to five coats. Allow timento dry between coats. It'll good up for months and peel off easily.

03chi-town0Z

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, and there's no need to scuff up your Chrome. Prep with a proper solvent and correct product application is enough.

splattj

iTrader: (2)

X2 Light coats are also key to the application lasting. Just pick up "prep solvent" from the auto parts store and a roll of masking tape and you're on your way.

petro

I spray a very light layer of clear coat over the ring after plastidipping. Still comes off easy and hold up wayyy better. Just make sure it is a clean surface. No need to scuff anything.

golgo13

iTrader: (134)

IIRC the key to getting Plastidip to work and last is in the number of coats.

I coated my titanium strut bar four times and it's pretty much bullet proof. No issues with underhood temps in 110 degree weather. I also didn't prep the surface or use any clear coat.

YMMV

kissmeblind

Duuuude, you should've done it yourself....

As others said, there's no need to scuff any surface when using plastidip. Wash with dish soap and water. Use an air compressor to make it completely dry and debris free. Spray 5-6 inches away, 4-5 coats, waiting 15 mins in between coats. And you should be good. My front chrome ring has been dipped since May 2012. It has one rock chip, but it's still holding up really well

wewtRallywewt

I forgot to mention in my original post that the auto body shop placed my car in the giant "oven" after being plastidipped. Now, would that heat have caused the plastidip to rip/tear so soon after application?

neogeo64

iTrader: (3)

this place should just paint it black since there is no going back to chrome after they scuffed it up.. and how hot was this "oven" they put your car in? might want to check all the other plastic pieces to make sure there not warped.

elecan

, It's as simple as that.

D-Man

iTrader: (1)

obviously they didn't know what they were doing. How much was that anyway? I would get my money back if i were you. They scuffed the chrome for no good reason and they obviously did a half-*** job spraying it. Plastidip will stick to anything as long as the surface is prepared right. And there's no need to bake it, if it was sprayed right, cause dip dries extremely fast. Do it right and 15-20mins its dry to the touch.

Evo Sportback

I feel like they completely defeated the purpose of plastidip "being able to peel it off to return it to the stock look" by scuffing it, they might as well have painted it after that. Next time you should leave easy DIY dips to just Doing It Yourself!

SHABBA6789

*Cringe* I would make them buy you a new trim piece and do it yourself.
P.S. Stay away from that detail shop, they have no idea what they are doing...

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/09...-o-bumper.html

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/09...front-lip.html

wewtRallywewt

So I re-sprayed the O-ring myself. What's the best way to clean the plastidipped areas, if that's even advisable?

golgo13

iTrader: (134)

The areas to be sprayed? Warm soapy water.

Overspray you can just peel off.