READ THIS - water leaking, HVAC, blower motor
These new photos are awesome, thank you!!!! That is tiny. What do you suggest to use to unclog it? Unfortunately, my blower has stopped working again. The ac works, but no air blows. I wonder if there is a fuse that could be replaced...I know high hopes.
Blower motor is shot
Most likely there is no way of getting your blower motor to work. Once this water damages it then it is too late. I have been through it 3 times before I finally figured out how to fix the water problem.
I use a zip tie to shove up there because it is flexible and long enough to reach the clog. I shove the fat end of the zip tie up there because that will clear a larger hole through the clog.
The absolute best way to do this is to use a shop vac. Get a tube or hose rigged up to the vac so that you can put it over the end of the drain tube and that will allow you to actually remove the clog instead of just clearing it temporarily. Just jamming a zip tie or a wire or something up there is only going to very temporarily unclog the drain so you will have to do this frequently. If you use a shop van I think the clog will be cleared completely and you will only have to check it maybe once a year.
The key is to make sure to clear this at the VERY first sign of water building up. These damn blower motors are expensive to replace and when they go bad they also cause the transistor to go bad if you try to keep using a failing blower motor... and those transistors are a nightmare to replace. I still haven't figure out how to do that.
The way you know the transistor is bad is if your blower settings don't seem to be working. If you put a new blower motor in and you are having issues with it turning on most likely it is your blower motor resistor.
It would be GREAT if someone would post some instructions, WITH PICTURES PLEASE, of how to find and replace the blower motor resistor since this will be a common related problem that needs to be fixed for people experiencing this issue.
Thanks everyone. Remember, click the pictures I posted in my above comment so they enlarge and you will be able to see everything you need to in order to find the drain tube.
I use a zip tie to shove up there because it is flexible and long enough to reach the clog. I shove the fat end of the zip tie up there because that will clear a larger hole through the clog.
The absolute best way to do this is to use a shop vac. Get a tube or hose rigged up to the vac so that you can put it over the end of the drain tube and that will allow you to actually remove the clog instead of just clearing it temporarily. Just jamming a zip tie or a wire or something up there is only going to very temporarily unclog the drain so you will have to do this frequently. If you use a shop van I think the clog will be cleared completely and you will only have to check it maybe once a year.
The key is to make sure to clear this at the VERY first sign of water building up. These damn blower motors are expensive to replace and when they go bad they also cause the transistor to go bad if you try to keep using a failing blower motor... and those transistors are a nightmare to replace. I still haven't figure out how to do that.
The way you know the transistor is bad is if your blower settings don't seem to be working. If you put a new blower motor in and you are having issues with it turning on most likely it is your blower motor resistor.
It would be GREAT if someone would post some instructions, WITH PICTURES PLEASE, of how to find and replace the blower motor resistor since this will be a common related problem that needs to be fixed for people experiencing this issue.
Thanks everyone. Remember, click the pictures I posted in my above comment so they enlarge and you will be able to see everything you need to in order to find the drain tube.
Sorry pics are low quality
Sorry the pics are low quality. The forum only allows the pics to be under 100KB in size so it was the best quality the forum would allow. If you click the pictures you will see a bigger picture though and should be good enough.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Here is the picture of the drain tube that needs to be cleared. Who knows how long it will be up until the forum host deletes them though.
Attachment 212065
Attachment 212064
Attachment 212065
Attachment 212064
Thanks zach26276! I guess I need to find someone to fix it before winter gets here.
Most likely there is no way of getting your blower motor to work. Once this water damages it then it is too late. I have been through it 3 times before I finally figured out how to fix the water problem.
I use a zip tie to shove up there because it is flexible and long enough to reach the clog. I shove the fat end of the zip tie up there because that will clear a larger hole through the clog.
The absolute best way to do this is to use a shop vac. Get a tube or hose rigged up to the vac so that you can put it over the end of the drain tube and that will allow you to actually remove the clog instead of just clearing it temporarily. Just jamming a zip tie or a wire or something up there is only going to very temporarily unclog the drain so you will have to do this frequently. If you use a shop van I think the clog will be cleared completely and you will only have to check it maybe once a year.
The key is to make sure to clear this at the VERY first sign of water building up. These damn blower motors are expensive to replace and when they go bad they also cause the transistor to go bad if you try to keep using a failing blower motor... and those transistors are a nightmare to replace. I still haven't figure out how to do that.
The way you know the transistor is bad is if your blower settings don't seem to be working. If you put a new blower motor in and you are having issues with it turning on most likely it is your blower motor resistor.
It would be GREAT if someone would post some instructions, WITH PICTURES PLEASE, of how to find and replace the blower motor resistor since this will be a common related problem that needs to be fixed for people experiencing this issue.
Thanks everyone. Remember, click the pictures I posted in my above comment so they enlarge and you will be able to see everything you need to in order to find the drain tube.
I use a zip tie to shove up there because it is flexible and long enough to reach the clog. I shove the fat end of the zip tie up there because that will clear a larger hole through the clog.
The absolute best way to do this is to use a shop vac. Get a tube or hose rigged up to the vac so that you can put it over the end of the drain tube and that will allow you to actually remove the clog instead of just clearing it temporarily. Just jamming a zip tie or a wire or something up there is only going to very temporarily unclog the drain so you will have to do this frequently. If you use a shop van I think the clog will be cleared completely and you will only have to check it maybe once a year.
The key is to make sure to clear this at the VERY first sign of water building up. These damn blower motors are expensive to replace and when they go bad they also cause the transistor to go bad if you try to keep using a failing blower motor... and those transistors are a nightmare to replace. I still haven't figure out how to do that.
The way you know the transistor is bad is if your blower settings don't seem to be working. If you put a new blower motor in and you are having issues with it turning on most likely it is your blower motor resistor.
It would be GREAT if someone would post some instructions, WITH PICTURES PLEASE, of how to find and replace the blower motor resistor since this will be a common related problem that needs to be fixed for people experiencing this issue.
Thanks everyone. Remember, click the pictures I posted in my above comment so they enlarge and you will be able to see everything you need to in order to find the drain tube.
Don't pay anyone to do this for you... it is too easy to do yourself ;)
It really is simple to do this yourself. Make sure not to wait or your blower motor will be wrecked. I think a Mitsubishi dealership might do it for free if they are in a good mood but otherwise you might end up paying them $100 to do something almost as simple as changing a light bulb. It really is simple.
Just start by looking for the drain tube on your own vehicle. If you can find it then just unclog it yourself. Removing that air hose only requires loosening two screw clamps and takes about 30 seconds to take off and another 30 seconds to put back on.
Whatever you do, do not wait or you will have a much more expensive thing to repair, I promise you that.
** Replacing the transistor is much more work but probably still simple. Hopefully someone will post some pics and procedure soon on how to do that.
Just start by looking for the drain tube on your own vehicle. If you can find it then just unclog it yourself. Removing that air hose only requires loosening two screw clamps and takes about 30 seconds to take off and another 30 seconds to put back on.
Whatever you do, do not wait or you will have a much more expensive thing to repair, I promise you that.

** Replacing the transistor is much more work but probably still simple. Hopefully someone will post some pics and procedure soon on how to do that.
Last edited by zach26276; Sep 4, 2013 at 07:35 AM.
Starting a couple of weeks ago, I too had a water sloshing noise coming from behind or under the glove box during turns. Yesterday the front passenger side carpet was soaked and water was dripping from what looks like the blower assembly behind the glove box. My first thought was "Great, how much is this going to cost me?". I immediately googled the symptoms and found this invaluable thread. I was able to reach the drain on the firewall without moving anything. When I pulled off the rubber elbow, water came streaming out of the drain tube. Upon inspection of the elbow, I could see that it was almost completely blocked with debris. I gave it a good cleaning and pushed it back on the end of the drain tube. I'm pretty confident that it took care of my problem without spending a cent (the blower motor still seems to be working alright so far).
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