LeXcite

iTrader: (5)

Needed parts.


* Tool kit



* Wires, crimper, cutter, sleeve



* Electrical Multimeter, the cheapest one is ok, but WITH beeper signal for diode test – to check Continuity …



http://www.ladyada.net/learn/multimeter/continuity.html

* 10 hours of free time

Since I have EDM Evolution 8 MR RS, i have Manual A/C like all of you. And it's controls cables gave me a lot of hedache. I changed them 2 times before i did "Orbital" conversion, and once after. So i begin to think about Full Auto A/C just to get rid of this freaking cable selectors ....


By doing this conversion we will have following benefits.

1. Get rid of the ugly control knobs.
2. Forget about any changes of the outside temp. it will control inside temp automatically
3. Free up space for 2DIN audio/monitor setup.
4. No need to buy overpriced Orbital Double Din conversion.
5. Get rid of these cables, which have to fail often.
6. DIY satisfaction )))).

So here is the list of the needed parts.

1. Heater assembly - MN124235.

It have all needed parts, that our manual heater doesn’t have –
1.1 86322C MOTOR,HEATER CONTROL (MODE) - MR568606
1.2 86322B MOTOR,HEATER CONTROL (AIR MIX) - MR568607
1.3 83928 HARNESS,HEATER - MR568601
1.4 86354 SENSOR,HEATER WATER TEMPERATURE - MR568828
1.5 87127B THERMISTOR,A/C - MR 568831
1.6 86119 LINK,HEATER AIR CONTROL DAMPER - 7801A111

2. 86206A BLOWER ASSY,HEATER - 7802A024
2.1 There is a difference with one we have. Blower motor with full auto climate has 3 wire harness, while we have 2 wire harness … And motor bolt pattern is not the same also. So you cant just change motor alone. U need to change lower part of heater blower assembly. Or change it completely …
3. UnderDash wire harness … or at least –
3.1 Two plugs that fit in to the A/C ecu. But one we have I our cars already, you need to find out other one, it’s bigger. First is 20 pins, and second is 16 pins (We have this one)
3.2 One plug (5 contacts, but only 3 wires used) for blower motor ...




3.3 One plug for Inside cabin temp. sensor.
3.4 One plug for ambient temp. sensor.

4. Double din panel - 73165 PANEL,INSTRUMENT,CTR - 8002A353HA
, or just panel with two 1 din holes. One I used for audio, lower one for empty box - 73165A PANEL ASSY,INSTRUMENT,CTR. - 8002A272HA

5. Lower panel for A/C ecu - 73108 PANEL,INSTRUMENT,LWR CTR - MR 626799
6. A/C Ecu - 87022A CONTROLLER ASSY,AUTO A/C - 7820A103
7. Sensor of the outside temp. - 87406 SENSOR,A/C CONDENSER TEMPERATURE - MR 283903
8. Sensor for the Inside temp - 86353 SENSOR,HEATER AIR INTAKE DUCT - MN 134419
It come with hose, connected to heater box - 86306 HOSE,AUTO HEATER CONTROL VACUUM - 7823A003, and have temp sensor other side, and this air divider on another side - 86318 ASPIRATOR,HEATER CONTROL VACUUM - MR 568605.
9. Harness from the A/C ECU to the heater assy.



Step 1 is to remove dash.

Step 2 is to unscrew deck crossmember, it have 2 12mm bolts on each side, and 4 10mm bolts in the cental lower metal plate. 2 from each side. Cross-member is hold in place by the total of 8 bolts, and metal guides where 12mm bolts are, you need to pull it to detach. Ones it detached just lower cross-member as low as possible, to gain access to the heater assembly.

Step 3. Detach 2 hoses with antifreeze from the engine compartment. After you opened hood, you should see them near the steering column, detach those and fix it upward, to not bleed antifreeze everywhere …. Left from them you will see A/C hard pipes. There is one 10mm bolt between those lines, that holding clamping plate. Unscrew it slowly, until gas is going out … Detach clamping plate with hard lines. Be carefull, there is O-Ring on the lines, don’t loose it… Now close the hood I go inside the car.

Step 4. Remove panel between Blower and heater boxes. It uses 4 clips. Just push to the center of the clip, and it will pop out … This panel have a resistor pack, it needed for stock A/C setup, we will no need it. But don’t remove the resistor from the panel. Leave it here ….

Step 5. Remove Blower assembly. It hold by 4 10mm nuts, one for every corner. Unscrew those and pull this out….

Step 6. Remove Heater assembly. It hold by the same 4 nuts as Blower … Pull this out, but be careful there is antifreeze at your heater, don’t let it go out …

Step 7. Put new Heater assembly, and Blower in to the place. Put old panel with resistor between them.

Step 8. Now we should mess up with the harness, it is very annoying part, and takes 50% of all time we should spend on this conversion … I'v stiing with service manuals dor a couple of days ... Wish you the same )))) This will help a loooooooot.

!!!!!!! ! Please be carefully, and double check all the wires, then triple check! !!!!!!

We have old harness plug coming from A/C control (Black plug with 18 pins) We will use most of them in our new harness… You should understand how to detach pins from this plug. It’s very difficult to me to describe this. Inside of the black plug, we have thin white frame. If you look at this frame really close, you should notice that it fixed by the 4 tabs, 2 from left and two from right. But to release these small white tabs you need to release teeth lock. Just insert smth like needle near the teeth from both sides, and pull it upward. After that you could easily open tabs with the same needle, and the same needle is needed to depress tab inside the pin hole … Sorry I can’t describe any further …. On the first pin I killed 30 minutes, just to understand what this plug is it )))), but last pins take me 2-3 seconds…
I made full A/C ECU pinout by myself. And made manual A/C “ecu” pinout. And used it for connection. I will attach it later.
Please check continuity with your Multimeter for every pin, just to understand where your wire going to. Because I found a little difference in wiring harness with service manual …
As you used most of the pins from your stock A/C control panel plug, pull it out completely. Use most of the stock wiring, and do solder and twists as less as possible.
P.S. I’m not connected any pins going to OBDII connector, because I didn’t )))).
After all wiring work is complete, just plug it to the Blower and Heater, then to the new A/C ECU.

!!!!!!! Attention!!!!!!

Right now you have a full working fully automatic A/C. And COULD start your car. But please triple check all electrical connectors. It is important to do all the test before doing any assemble of the cross-member or the dash. If every plugs is ok, and THERE IS NO continuity between car body and +12 battery post, you may connect your battery. Be carefull, and be ready for lose connection if you will see any smoke or fire )))))))
Testing is ok? Yeah it should be. Then do all step back wise to assemble your car back.

P.S. I will update this topic with the picture, as I will do other mod with the dash, and gonna be removing this once again in a week or two …
That’s all!!!
Believe me, it’s more easy than you may think. There is a lot of work. And doing this work carefully will give you best result.

P.S. In case we removed our dash, I used some special anti-squeak materials, to mod my dash. I used only lightweight materials. And didn’t use any SOUND DITHERING materials, because they are very heavy, and after some time your loosed tabs and guides from heavier dash is not good thing. I have many squeak and crunch noise from the underdash harness. Now I feel my car more expensive. Rock solid Dash, and Coolest air from the Full Auto Climate control . ))))))

P.S.2. Please dont forget to see more photo in my album, there is a lot photo of all parts ... http://photo.qip.ru/users/lexcite/4088550/

Update : v0.1 - There is a way to not pulling out whole Heater Assy., and to not loose any antifreeze and refrigerant. But it's insanely hard to disassemble this white box on the car, so i didnt include this in HowTo ... But if any one have free time, and dont want to lose some money on refrigerant/antifreeze refill could go through this hell ...
Update : v0.2 - There is a way to do Auto Headlights. Since we use Sunlight sensor for our install, all we need for Auto light is the Turn signal sterring column switch with Auto mode - after installing it will work right out of the box ...


Update : v0.3 - The blower motors have a huge difference. Stock one have only 1, direct speed. It is conventional electric motor. And you can control it by resistor pack. It is full analog and have just two pins, Pos. and Neg. So it has two states, On/Off.
Motor from the automatic CC, is the PWM, there is no any way to convert one to another. Because PWM one have 3 pins, Pos.,Neg., and Speed Control wire, coming from A/C Ecu. It has absolutely different electric motor, and digital driver itself ...
If you have any other question feel free to contact me ...

LeXcite

iTrader: (5)

This is comparision chart for New and old A/C harness

LeXcite

iTrader: (5)

Here is Wiring Diagram.
*.xps file type, since i have no pdf printing software ((((

P.S. Just rename SM.bin to the SM.zip.

Pal215

iTrader: (12)

Wow... I am blown away. Looking forward to seeing the pics. Thank you for taking the time to document and post your findings!

Ramen_Noodle

iTrader: (3)

I couldn't find all of these parts on Mitsubishiparts.net but here is what I could find and price as NEW:

MN124235
MR626799
MR283903
MN134419

These 4 part numbers come to a total of $1,411.65 without S&H ($204.69 for USA Ground).

I could not find the following items:

2. 86206A BLOWER ASSY,HEATER - 7802A024
4. Double din panel - 73165 PANEL,INSTRUMENT,CTR - 8002A353HA (Can be purchased elsewhere)
6. A/C Ecu - 87022A CONTROLLER ASSY,AUTO A/C - 7820A103

I could be missing some items from the list, but that's just what I've discovered so far using a known (and trusted) resource for parts here in the US. I suppose the rest may need to be sourced outside of the US or you may just need to find the right part number and then locate the part(s) on MP.net.

LeXcite

iTrader: (5)

What program your source is using? Because there is many models for many markets, USDM / EDM / GeneralExport / JDM / UK/AUDM.
For example i cannot see many parts that should be on the JDM model in USDM catalog .... Even oficial parts catalog/programm - Mitsubishi ASA, has different database for many markets ....

LeXcite

iTrader: (5)

Just want to clarifiy smth to all of them, not only for pm senders.

1. JDM blower and heater assemblys do not working with our LHD cars, and there is no way to make it possible, because they are using mirrored body

2. We have many cars here in Russia with matched climate control parts.
For example. Servos is the same from the followind LHD models Lancer, Outlander, Lancer cedia. A/C ECU is almost the same - Lancer, Outlander, Lancer Cedia, Pajero III ... But heater assembly and blower assembly should be from the same body model only. Lancer EVO IX EDM, Lancer IX LHD with AutoA/C, Lancer Cedia LHD with AutoA/C. Harness and plugs you can use from ANY vehicle listed above ...
We have here $100-$500 for FULL list of parts. Generally our small brothers here in Russia loves this conversion, i've seen many of them is doing this. Our EVO owners is more HP/Weight/exterior related mod lover )))

Acree

iTrader: (8)

LeXcite,

What websites are you using to buy parts?

-Acree

LeXcite

iTrader: (5)

google

Acree do u read in Russian?

I buy all parts from all over the world, especially at many forums. my Defi Cluster is from Netherlands, my controller for coilovers fron Australia, many many mods from USA, have many Japan parts, and of course we have very wide market in the Russia. We have Big comunity here - Lancer club, they have this conversions done from 2007 , and have a big classified topic with many interesting parts. Even we have great Evo comunity, sometimes we see topics wich sells ALL needed parts for LHD conversion. it includes tons of parts, and Full AutoA/C of course. So i persuaded the seller to sell me just A\C related parts alone. ...

Acree

iTrader: (8)

So you just simply try to find deals on forum classifieds? I was talking about official parts dealers such as auto-parts.spb.ru where you can find drawings and links such as this.

-Acree

LeXcite

iTrader: (5)

Huh, understand, all official parts i buying here - http://www.japancats.ru/Mitsubishi/ It has all drawing, for all models with direct prices. It's not official, but it biggest auto parts sale company in the Russia, they are resellers, any part for any vehicle.

Acree

iTrader: (8)

I can't use that site. It requires you to register, and the US is not in the list of countries in the drop down menu. I'll have to figure something out.

-Acree

LeXcite

iTrader: (5)

Acree you have got pm.
Now you have full acces with region selection

Acree

iTrader: (8)

Holy hell... thanks! That helped a lot.

-Acree

eXtreme-Speed

iTrader: (7)

Amazing, will be gathering parts for this ASAP LMAO!!!! I always wanted to do this. THANKS!