Ever hear the saying "Break it in like you're going to drive it"? Well, here's why:

http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

And while the site is primarily dedicated to motorcycles, it applies to any piston engine. Everyone that I have known that used this method got good results.

 

I actually followed this procedure for my RA, so far with 4300km it runs wicked!
For those that want to comment make sure you read the whole web page regarding the procedure. I've been around cars, engines/mechanics (including myself) and it makes sense to me!

 

couple of things.
"Although the examples shown here are motorcycle engines,
these principles apply to all 4 stroke engines:
Street or Race Motorcycles, Cars, Snowmobiles, Airplanes & yes ...
even Lawn Mowers !! "

I dont know which one of these engine you got in your RA.

"3 more words on break- in:
NO SYNTHETIC OIL !!

Use Valvoline, Halvoline, or similar 10 w 40 Petroleum Car Oil for at least
2 full days of hard racing or 1,500 miles of street riding / driving.
After that use your favorite brand of oil. "

so here is my opinion on this.

Number 1 non of these are turbo charged.
You got your little book from Mitsubishi where is written loud and clear the break in procedure.
I'm sure those JDM engineers in the Mitsubishi, got a right idea about this. Since they are well educated, work on THIS project with virtually unlimited sources.
And if they could build cars like the RA-EVO-Pajero. Then probably can figure it out the right way to break in the car properly.
I'm sure "MotoMan" is a genius too. But the car actually have more component then the engine, or the piston...
There is the breaks , clutches etc.
I do believe in the Japanese grope of engineer then Motoman. And i never got a problem. I dont know about you.

Rob

 

Deleted.

 

Robevo,

The turbo doesn't make any difference in break in procedures, it is practically a non-wear item. In other words, there's no friction - nothing that needs to be "broken in". Although, since it's feeding boost to the engine, you may not have to rev it so hard to get the same effect. It's a possibility.

Also, all cars have the same break-in procedures in their manuals. According to variations of that article, manufacturers have been specifying the same thing since WW2 - back when mass-manufacturing capabilities weren't as precise. I'm not entirely sure why the old method is still recommended among auto manufacturers (makes sense on a bike - you don't want to go full throttle on something you're not used to. If you hurt yourself, you could sue the company for recommending it).

It's not like breaking in your engine the old fashioned way will not work, it's just that all evidence points to hard break-in as being superior.

Lastly, I want to mention that in the documentary about the Ferrari factory, each car is taken on the track for some serious laps before it gets sent off. This is their break-in... It doesn't include keeping under 4k RPM for 1k miles.... That was just my observation.

Dennis F - Grand National? Nice!

 

"Unless you have data to back up your opinion, please keep it to yourself and do some reading first before you come to your opinion."
DO a same please big guy.

for me there is an owner manual, so should help for you as my base where i come from. And that is just as new as the car From your side is ...?
if you say the same load goes for turbo vs non turbo engine. then i think no furthest comment needed for your post.
Also you kind a skipped the other essential parts on the car statement. Like clutch etc.

So yes i hardly see cars during my life time so far.

 

"The turbo doesn't make any difference in break in procedures, it is practically a non-wear item."

no comment

"Lastly, I want to mention that in the documentary about the Ferrari factory, each car is taken on the track for some serious laps before it gets sent off. This is their break-in... It doesn't include keeping under 4k RPM for 1k miles.... That was just my observation."

yest it is a good observation. I hope you also realize the characteristic difference between the 4b11T and Ferrari high revving engine too.

"I'm not entirely sure why the old method is still recommended among auto manufacturers (makes sense on a bike - you don't want to go full throttle on something you're not used to. "
Read the owner manual. It is not an old method break in , like 1980's.

good luck.

 

Bassically you guys brake in your car away you want it. It is YOUR car. So who cares other then you.

I put my opinion here as an other way too, and i think the proper way to do it.
So the most engineers according to many manufacturers.
The high revving N/A engine or the race engines are different. And build for different purpose.
Also the RA doesn't made for racing, and backed up by racing teams. Like the Verizon team in the commercial.
You pick what you want.

 

This topic has been regurgitated many times already.

 

Is this YOUR recommended break in oil or the manufacture??
and if your on this forum then you know what engine is in the RA.

Those that are a little more mechanically inclined might be the only ones to understand this proceedure. I'm assuming you DID read the whole article before posting. The manufacture isn't going to tell its customers to do it this way even if it was the better way. They would claim it's a hazard on the road for sure! You break in how you see fit Rob.

 

This article makes me feel better about the few hiccups I had the first 1000 miles with my evo (redlining and then not sleeping that night).

 

>>"The turbo doesn't make any difference in break in procedures, it is practically a non-wear item."

no comment <<

If you were attempting to sarcastically imply that I don't know what I'm talking about because people rebuild turbos, then let me make myself clear. The shaft is either supported by ball bearings, or oil film. Neither require a break in. Yes, typically ball bearings will require eventual replacement, but thin film "bearings" don't (except for oil changes). The problem that occurs to turbos that have operated in their specified ranges are typically bad seals, or baked oil remnants due to improper maintenance.


>>yest it is a good observation. I hope you also realize the characteristic difference between the 4b11T and Ferrari high revving engine too. <<

The rev speed of the engine makes no difference. All the components in both engines are similar enough. The primary thing we're focused on is the piston rings. Does either the R/A, or the Ferrari not use them?! Maybe I should be the one laughing.

I'm proud of you that you followed the step by step instructions indicated in the manual. No one forced you to follow any recommendations. But if you're acting like this in order to justify to yourself that what you did was right in light of other people's experiences, then that's too bad for you. If you have already broken in your engine, then this won't make any difference. You can't go back.


Last supporting argument is when Mercedes took I believe was a turbo diesel E-class right off the line, and drove it full throttle for 100k miles(or was it km?) straight.

Wait, let me guess mercedes has magical motors that are totally different than every other manufacturers.

Since I don't have an R/A, I don't have a manual. But, for your sake, I will find it online, and read it.

 

so actually who didnt read the article?
MotoMan recommends those oil's.

 

It only suggests using standard oils to avoid friction modifiers from preventing the desired initial wear on the piston rings. Also, you want to change your oil quickly to get all the metal flakes out of your engine, before they get embedded into your crank, and rod bearings. I'd say attach some strong magnets to your oil filter.

 

+1 I felt EXACTLY the same lol