Yep, that's 0.9 degrees of retard. You can always see what kind of mathematics is applied to the input variable by looking at the top of the window (offset, scale, absolute output, etc,.)

Shiv

 

Have you tried turning off the SMART fuel and timing maps (zeroing them out) in an attempt to isolate them as being the reason. They shouldn't be, but it's always worth checking. As for the smart fuel and timing table, they are consevative since they are designed for 91oct. With the WI, you can afford something more agressive which I will be posting up shortly in this thread.

Shiv

 

I had that in mind, but unfortunately I didn't recall how to do that when I was at the dragstrip. I'll have to try it when I return soon. The thing that was so different this time around was how the car would ET and run the quickest on the first couple of runs and then settle slower, even after a decent cool down.

 

Here's the mapping for more aggressive SMART timing and fuel maps.



This SMART timing map is revised to actually add in timing during knock-free conditions. This should noticeably improve off boost torque and drivability. Some cars, esp those without C-Readers, may trigger a misfire diagnostic using such an active-advance map. If you're car is one of those cars, go back to your previous SMART timing map (without the postive timing numbers at the bottom of the table.)

Here's an updated SMART fuel table.



It is not as conservative as the earlier version and is suitable for 93-94 octane. Those running 91oct can try it and run it through its paces. If you see the highlight box in the SMART timing window go more negative than before (pulling timing) go back to the earlier SMART timing fuel table (which has a richer Zero point at higher RPM).

As always, feedback is always encouraged. Also, remember to save your current file before inputting the new values in your SMART tables. This is so you can go back if you feel the prior values worked better for you.

Regards
shiv

 

yay...now i just need my hardware to come in

 

Shiv:

With the former templates and 93 octane fuel I'm getting a one cell oscillation (one cell outside of the "happy zone") on the smart timing map in two regions that can be not only measured but felt on most runs. The fuel and timing maps are based upon your "off the shelf" 93 octane maps.

Is it the intent of the smart timing subsystem to run on the upper threshold? Or should I be tuning to get away from the threshold? That said if I add fuel or pull timing I don't see dramatic results with respect to bouncing above the zone.

Edit:

So I installed the updated smart fuel map (above) and with respect to what I cited above not much changed other than more power up high. I'm now thinking that my engine's noise (e.g. it's noisier) is causing this.

 

Shiv

Should I make any adjustments for high altitude? For example, my house is at about 6000' and I was romping around at 11000' today in the mountains.

d

 

Yeah, you weren't kidding. I have never had an issue w/ the P0300 code and the second I loaded the advancing map, I threw the code and my car started acting like it had "anti-lag" at 4k rpms regardless of load. Threw the C-reader in and all is well.

 

Whoa. Did the car return to 'normal' or was it better than before?

d

 

Nowhere in the instructions does it mention the blue and white wires on the knock buffer. Where do they go?
A wiring diagram of the system would have helped immensly.

Can we hook both the knock buffer and the LC-1 power wires to the cigarette lighter for ease of installation or is it not recommended?

My Creader is not working. Does this mean I should not complete the install until I have one that works?

Thanks,
Sigfrid

 

The blue and white wires are for the built-in o2 simulator. If you already have one, you don't need to wire it up.

Yes, you can hook both the knock buffer and the LC-1 to the cig lighter if you want to. Although it's only the LC-1 that actually needs that power source.

You can still run the system without the C-Reader. Just don't run the active-advance SMART table which I just posted up yesterday or you will induce a misfire code.

Shiv

 

EDIT: shiv's response is better.

 

Oh yeah, everything is fine now. I can feel the difference, particularly at lower boost pressures. No need to get over 5 psi regardless of how traffic accelerates.

 

So here are my results with the 91 octane SMART fuel map, as well as the 93 octane SMART map. Basically in the range of 4500 to 4700 my Evo has serious problems with knock. The AFR goal in this region is up to 11.88, which appears to be simply too lean. Comparing this AFR to a custom tune by Vishnu shows that the car was employing a 11 to 11.2 AFR to stay knock free.

I have tried adding fuel in this area but to be honest I feel that I'm fighting the SMART fuel map. Am I correct that if the target is too lean that adding fuel to the base fuel map only causes the correction via the SMART fuel map to be larger, until you exceed the authority range?

What is a reasonable AFR target for the mid-4000's?

 

due to the flow of logic, smart has the final say (vs. the base fuel map anyway). so yes, adding fuel to the base fuel map may not actually do anything if smart doesnt think it should be adding fuel. either turn off smart and add your fuel and see how that goes, or add fuel to the smart map (richen up the happy zone) and then add fuel to the basemap, then track the smart map and see if you are actually running in that happy zone.