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My 2.3L build, lots o pics

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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 12:42 PM
  #31  
purecoda's Avatar
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From: Columbia, MD
that has got to be one of the best step by step write-ups i've seen. i cast another vote for to sticky this thread.

i do have one small observation though - the heat shield. did you have any desire to paint it knowing it's going to rust like crazy?
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 12:47 PM
  #32  
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From: Secret Tweaker Pad
Awesome, awesome build. I would love to have been in the garage with you while you were building it just to learn a ton. When Benson built my Honda block and it came back to me it was a work of art. I regreted selling it. To watch it have been built would have made parting with it a little easier.
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 01:04 PM
  #33  
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Wow, thats specific... great write up and sweet ride man
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 01:09 PM
  #34  
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From: Mesoamerica/ SF Bay Area
What was your out of pocket expense on this project, if I may ask? Did you save a bit of money by sourcing it all yourself as opposed to buying a kit?
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 01:57 PM
  #35  
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From: Frisco
Well, the trick that I know of is to unscrew the vacuum fitting that is on the back of the manifold (the one that is used for brake boost) and then screw it into the block where the oil pressure sensor is located. You have to take the oil pressure sensor out before doing this of course. Anyway, you can then use a tube and one of the little hand pumps that screw on to the top of an oil bottle and start pumping. It is kind of difficult to get to the back of the block with the intake manifold on when the block is in the car, but it is possible. (done it) If you leave the valve cover off when doing this you can see the oil start to come out of the top of the lifters, and if you continue to pump you will lubricate the journals as well and you do not loose any oil as this is assuming that the turbo is on, oil cooler, filter, basically the whole engine is assembled in the engine bay. I actually put in two quarts this way and the rest through the valve cover. Anyway, when I started the engine for the first time the oil pressure light was not on for more the 1.5 seconds if that. Just remember to take the fitting out and clean it before putting it back on the backside of the manifold again and to put the pressure sensor back in. I really cannot take credit for this as John at RRE told me how to do this.
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 02:00 PM
  #36  
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From: ATX
Maaan...I wish i had the guts
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 02:13 PM
  #37  
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Good write up man. It is now a sticky .
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 02:28 PM
  #38  
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I'd be interested in seeing the 2.4 build-up you did previously.
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 08:09 PM
  #39  
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unfortunatly I didn't take many pics of the 2.4l build. It would have been a even more interesting one, as I ported and built the head as well. Here are the few pics i did get. 2.4L pics

I'm glad you guys liked this so much it became a sticky. Thats quite a honor.
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 08:25 PM
  #40  
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As far as the expense's I will list who I got what from and the price. Mods if this is not ok let me know, or remove them. I am listing these vendors because i had a very good experiences with all of them, and highly recomend them.

Wiseco pistons and Eagle rods from Chris at www.nolimitmotorsports.com $769 shipped, got them in less than a week.

ACL coated Bearings and ARP head studs from Chris at www.maperformance.com $186.35 shipped, with overnight shipping on the studs.

New Mitsu 2.4L crank and Evo gasket kit. from Nick at Brookdale Mitsu 763-566-5600 $821.40 shipped with the club DSM/EVO disscount.

I had the machine work done locally by the Auto Value machine shop, Tod really knows his stuff. Cost $175.

So ya to answer you question I think I saved some cas by piecing everything together myself. The total price of all parts shipped was $1776. That includes a new mitsu crank, new Mitsu gasket kit, and ARP head studs. That is about the same price most vendors sell just the rotating assembly for, and at that price probably included a re-man crank.
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 08:37 PM
  #41  
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Did you clean the oil cooler, oil lines and turbo from metal shavings because of the spun bearing. My 2.3 built by RRE will be picked up very soon
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 08:55 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by JMB8606
Did you clean the oil cooler, oil lines and turbo from metal shavings because of the spun bearing. My 2.3 built by RRE will be picked up very soon
Yes i did I ran parts washer fluid through then for about 3 hours each followed by water, followed by air, and repeated this a couple times.

I opened the oil filter that was on the car and there wasn't too much metal in it. Most of the bearing in the pan was too large to make it past the screen on the oil pick up.
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 09:15 PM
  #43  
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Nice writeup Lucas. I cant wait til that thing is ready to see full boost and get driven hard.
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Old Aug 29, 2006 | 09:22 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by tmodlin
Nice writeup Lucas. I cant wait til that thing is ready to see full boost and get driven hard.

Thanks, I wasn't sure if you were registered on here or not. Tim (tmodlin) is the man who notified me of the deal on the EVO, and has helped in all the work I've done on it Thanks
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 07:32 PM
  #45  
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From: NH/MA
great write up
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